Igirisu gin

So after finally getting back to England, partying, catching up with the family, partying, finding a house, moving, partying, and setting up my and my girlfriend's new life, I seem to have got to the point where I have the time and inkling to write.

I started travelling with all the intention in the world to update the blog from the road but it just wasn't to be with all that fun out there to be had. Luckily I kept an extensive journal the whole time I was travelling so I intend to put up pretty much all of it, combined with lots of photos and the odd video here and there for a full on textual-audio-visual bonanza.

Here goes, June 13th 2006:


Let me just note how much I prefer flying in Asia and on asian airlines. I've been really impressed with the air hostesses on China Airlines who speak Chinese, English and some Japanese (although their Japanese was pretty limited) and the food is actually pretty good. The most important asset that these flights have though, is their occupants; have you ever sat on a 13 hour flight to LA next to a guy who's soooo fat that he overflows over and between the armrest into your seat? Well, I have and I don't like it, make porky pay for two seats. In asia there's hardly anybody that size so all flights are delightfully spacious, especially when the check in staff often give you the extra leg room seats.

The occupants of Japanese flights are almost all old. Japan still holds on to a few of its monopolies and their two main carriers (JAL and ANA) have a stranglehold over all of the domestic and most international flights, thus the prices are ridiculously high; excluding many young people from international travel. Then there's the job factor, aside from the main public holidays there's very little chance of getting any time off work to travel, which leaves the retirees. So every flight I've taken from Japan seems to be filled to the gunnels with excited OAPs being herded by the ubiquitous Japanese tour guide (yes, even on the plane).

After a lot of time spent waiting for transfers I eventually end up in Hanoi and kick around for a while until David, the hustler who runs my guest house picks me up and drives me into the heart of the Old Quarter blasting Vietnamese pop music all the way. As soon as we arrive the hard sell kicks in and before I know it I've organised the first week of my trip with some very reasonably priced tours: one day in Hanoi and then off to Ha Long Bay on a boat trip with one night on board and some sea kayaking and then straight to Sapa on the over night train for a 4 day private hiking trip, just me and a guide. Seems like I've got most of what I wanted to do over my 15 days in Vietnam sorted out into the first week, must make some more plans!

Anyway first thing to do tomorrow is get a decent backpack so I can get rid of the two small bags I brought with me.

14th June 2006

Awoke early due to a severe lack of curtainage, one thing I demand of a bedroom is pitch black conditions, a condition my room unfortunately didn't meet. Thankfully a severely fuzzy head allowed me several more stop-start hours of blissful slumber.

A few hours into my stay and I am already amazed at Vietnamese hospitality; friendly, funny, eager to help and so relaxed. The pressure of Japan seems like its on the other side of the world and yet is only one hour time difference.

Going downstairs in the guest house I got to chat with a charming Vietnamese lady who has great English, and in fact turned out to be an English teacher. She was very eager to learn about other parts of the world and we had a really funny chat about the English, Vietnamese and Japanese. I was relieved to find out that what worried me most about Japan: overworking at the expense of family and personal time, was as incredulous to the Vietnamese as it was to me.

So after a nice chat, coffee and baguette I went out and picked up a top quality backpack for only $19, about 1/10 of the price in the UK or Japan. Now it was finally time for a spot of wandering around the city. The Old Quarter of Hanoi is situated right next to the Hoan Kien Lake which is home to the The Huc Bridge, the Jade Mountain Temple, and apparently some giant turtles. Though how anything could survive in that green, skank ridden lake is beyond me.



The lake, bridge and temple were not very impressive in themselves but a run in with the locals more than made up for it. A small boy comes up to me and starts off with the usual 'I'm going to try and sell something to you, you know it, I know it but I'm going to do it anyway' banter of: "Where are you from....etc". Funny thing was, the little blighter was so charming that I parted with a little cash, 30,000 Dong (about £1) for a pack of postcards. He must have been about 6 or 7 but he already knew all the tricks though, he counted 30,000 as 20,000 Dong right in front of me...but you just couldn't help but love those little kids, even as they try their best to blag you out of as much money as possible.

Next, a self conducted walking tour of the Old Quarter (re wandering around lost), taking in all of the sights, smells and sounds of this living market place. In the mid-day sun its pretty fatiguing, and all the people and scooters is almost too much. Although the streets are lined with super cheap clothes and other goods I'm not inclined to buy anything. In fact, I felt so battered that I had to stop off in a cafe and have something to eat and drink. My first decent meal in Vietnam would stick with me for the rest of the trip, anything baked in a clay pot in Vietnam is divine. I had aubergine with braised pork on rice and it was one of the best things I ate in Vietnam, all washed down with a Ha Noi, one of the local brews which bore a clear French influence from its sharp taste. Very, very good indeed.



Crossing the street here is far easier than it looks at first glance; traffic coming from all sides and absolutely no road rules but the traffic moves at a constant pace and weaves around everybody. Just start walking and don't, ever, ever stop, and hopefully everyone will work their way around you. If you haven't been to Vietnam before and are unsure, just follow a local, although it looks like they're heading for sudden death it is actually quite safe.



At dusk I took myself off to the water puppets which has developed from ancient times when the rice fields flooded, into a splashtastic pyrotechnical extravaganza. Pretty impossible to understand the stories unless you speak Vietnamese but the music was of most interest. Particularly the lady playing what turned out to be a Dan Bau, a one stringed instrument unique to Vietnam which is similar to a zither. The player has to hit the string in exactly the right spot whilst simultaneously altering the tension of the string with a separate handle, she had absolutely mind bending skills. Sadly, the main use of the instrument now is for the backing tracks of the absolutely woeful pop music produced in Vietnam.

Having satisfied my puppet addiction it was time to satisfy some others, food and drink. Eating on the street is such a great part of life everywhere in asia that I wish I could take it back with me to England. Anyhow I filled my (expanding) belly with fried noodles with beef and pork knuckles, or something like that. As there was only Vietnamese people, and my Vietnamese is non-existent, I just watched and it was good to see that the youth of Hanoi seem just as preoccupied with fashion as everyone else.

There was lots of firsts for me today but by far and away the best was my first time being propositioned by a mobile prostitute! Just as I was buying some water on my way back to the guesthouse a girl on a scooter rolls up beside me, thinking nothing of it I conclude my purchase and then turn towards her as I head home. "Could I stay the night with you?" she coyly asked before I stammered out a "no thanks". I don't condone prostitution in any way but what a fantastic idea, go out and get drunk, then instead of calling a taxi you just pick up a girl who'll drive you home and its probably a lot safer for the girl too.

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You can expect the next installment of my tales at the weekend or perhaps a little later, but as I have well over 2 months worth of writing and photos its going to take a while to get through. All comments and criticisms are welcomed.

Check out the gallery also which has decent sized pictures: click here.