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Cigars ordered today:

5 - H. UPMANN NO. 100 ROBUSTO'S

Altadis sampler including:
1 Romeo y Julieta Cedro Deluxe No.2 5.50 x 44
1 Romeo y Julieta Reserve Maduro No.4 5.00 x 44
1 Onyx Reserve No.4 5.00 x 44
1 H. Upmann Special Seleccion New Yorker 5.62 x 42
1 Montecristo Afrique Machame 5.00 x 44
1 Montecristo Half Corona 4.25 x 42
1 Don Diego Privada No. 4 5.62 x 42


World Class Selection Sampler includng:
1 Romeo y Julieta Vintage No. 7 6.00 x 50
1 Montecristo White Toro 6.00 x 54
1 H. Upmann Special Selection Souvenir 6.00 x 50
1 Gurkha Master Select Toro 6.00 x 50
1 La Gloria Cubana Corona Gorda 6.00 x 52
1 Partagas Naturale 5.50 x 50

Cigars???

Probably a little know fact: I like cigars. Only recently have I gotten into buying larger quantities and ordered a humidor to keep my little guys safe and in good condition. This is just a pic of the start of my small collection. I plan on adding more of the ones I like and more brands/types of others.

pictured:
-Gurkha Master Select Toro
-El Rey del Mundo Rectangulare
-Romeo y Julieta 1875 Bully's and No.4's
-Montecristo Short Smoke No. 444

on the right:
-Macanudo Ascots and Court Tubo

Nerdy kind of Christmas tree

Bought my first Christmas tree yesterday, a $25 "6 foot" (my ass, its like 5ft), a bunch of $2 ornaments and 100 hooks for $.60. all told with mouthwash and other items from target: $65. It's a bit of a Charlie Brown tree... It's short, It's skinny, It's sparse so me and my gf Megan bought 9ft of thick wired garland to help fill it out. The tree turned out nice though, Megan helped me a lot. After all the ornaments were on she asked what else we could put on it to personalize it a bit. Being the nerd that I am we didn;t even have to leave the living room to find lego people, G.I. Joes, microman, a stickfa, chairs from a game, cat toys, chainsaws...











Modified my Wii-mote today...

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Somehow, someway, someone spilled something on the wiimote and caused the D-pad and some buttons to stick. Not being a fan of sticky buttons, I decided to take it apart to clean it. Since it was apart, and since I love modifying stuff, I also decided to add an ass load of leds as well as change the colors of the player 2, 3, and 4 lights.



Here you can see all but one of the leds I added/changed.



This is a closeup of the led's that will light up the clear 'A' button.



Close-up of the P1-4 lights. Colors now reflect on screen pointers/bowling balls/etc.


Not pictured is a red led that I added to the rumble circuit. The speaker grill will glow red when the controller vibrates.

Robot lego tracks adventure: part 2

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Last night after work I decided I was going to make the tank chassis work no matter what. I like the idea of having an alternate chassis design that's easily swappable. So, instead of trying to fit puny tracks to an unwilling wheeled chassis I took some scrap plastic leftover from the other one and made a REALLY simple new chassis. All in all I'm pretty happy with it. It could use some smaller stands for the control board but I'm not going to worry about it just yet.


As you can see here, I solved the width problem by staggering the servos behind eachother. Nice and narrow, but wide enough to have good turning force. Yes, I know the tracks don't line up. It's an asymmetrical design and the difference is negligible.


Circuit board is a little high for my taste but I can live with it for now.


This is just a closeup of the lego gear screwed to the servo's output shaft. Nice and simple!


Head-on shot shows some of the brackets I made, also using the red plastic.


Here it is compared to my beautiful Nintendo DS. Good size for a fully autonomous robot I think :smile:.


Tried to add LEGO tank track to the robot...

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... with only marginal success :frown:. The look isn't right, I think its too wide for how short the tracks are. Also, I wanted to do it without modifying the chassis so I could go back to the wheels if i needed to. Flipping the servos around accomplished this, and all I had to do to get the drive wheels on was screw the Lego gears straight to the servo's output and let friction do the rest. The problem was the rear idler gear. There is NO immediately simple way to mount them without A) drilling new holes, B) fabricating some crazy pieces, or C) cutting the chassis to accommodate longer tracks. Further tinkering may produce better results, as this was more like an experiment to see what was possible. Hopefully tonight or tomorrow night I can come up with a solution. It's not so much that I don't like the wheels, it's more like I'm not 100% stoked on the look of the robot.

Robot Adventures: home made stamp2 powered autonomous robot/teaching myself PBASIC

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Well, I am always starting new hobbies and this is my latest one: advanced robotics. I'm taking a break from the little solar powered B.E.A.M. robotics for a while and bought THIS KIT. It is a kit designed to teach you how to program a STAMP2 microcontroller. You can control lights, servos, sounds, all kinds of stuff.


When I first got it I was going through the book and teaching myself the programming language, PBASIC. After a week or two though I got anxious to build a small robot base for it, so thats exactly what I did. I went to parallax and ordered 2 of their continuously rotating servos for motors, and 2 wheels designed to be attatched directly to the servos. I had some Sintra (expanded pvc) I ordered from SOLARBOTICS and used that to make the base.



Here you can see the initial mock-up of the lower plate and the servos/wheels. I ended up using smaller strips of the same plastic, which is highly moldable when warmed, to fabricate sturdy mounts for the servos. not pictured is the tail wheel that is also made from the same plastic, heated and folded over itself. The wheel itself is a pinch roller from an old tape player.



Here is pretty much how it sits at the moment. There is an identical plate as the bottom used as the top plate to mount the STAMP2 homework board to. The wheels are moved within the robots chassis and so the robot is a perfect 4.25" square.


Right now the robot is programmed to seek out the brightest lit area. It will also follow a flashlight beam. The same programming/hardware setup can also be used for following a line of tape on the ground. For the eyes I'm using 2 photodiodes from an old computer mouse. The STAMP2 takes the input and converts it to a number. Using some IF...THEN commands it compares the 2 light signals and tries to balance them. If one or both eyes see dark levels too low it will back up and head toward the direction one of the eyes deems brighter. I'll post the program later when I can get it off of the computer I used to program it.

The next step is to add some sort of obstacle detection so it can avoid walls and such. This can be accomplished using sonar or infrared beam pulsed at 38.5kHz and phototransistors. This will GREATLY improve the robots roaming capabilities without getting into trouble.



For more information go to parallax's website. All their textbooks and documentation for their products is free for download as PDF files.



Here's the program:


' {$STAMP BS2}
' {$PBASIC 2.5}

lightleft VAR Word
lightright VAR Word
lightcenter VAR Word
rightservo CON 0 'assign right servo constant to pin 0
leftservo CON 15 'assign left servo constant to pin 15
counter VAR Word 'variable for time driving
average VAR Word
difference VAR Word

'PAUSE 7000

DO

HIGH 1
'HIGH 8
HIGH 14

RCTIME 1, 1, lightright
'RCTIME 8, 1, lightcenter
RCTIME 14, 1, lightleft

average = (lightleft + lightright)/2
difference = average / 6

IF lightright > 2600 THEN
GOSUB reverseleft

ELSEIF lightleft > 2600 THEN
GOSUB reverseright

ELSE
GOSUB normal

ENDIF



' DEBUG HOME, "left = ", DEC5 lightleft , CR,
' "right = ", DEC5 lightright, CR
'"center = ", DEC lightcenter


LOOP

normal:

IF lightright > lightleft + difference THEN
'FOR counter = 1 TO 50
PULSOUT rightservo, 700
PULSOUT leftservo, 750
'NEXT

ELSEIF lightleft > lightright + difference THEN
'FOR counter = 1 TO 50
PULSOUT rightservo, 750
PULSOUT leftservo, 800
'NEXT

ELSE
PULSOUT rightservo, 700
PULSOUT leftservo, 800
ENDIF
RETURN



reverseleft:
PAUSE 1000

FOR counter = 1 TO 100
PULSOUT leftservo, 750 - counter
PULSOUT rightservo, 750 + counter
NEXT


PAUSE 500

FOR counter = 1 TO 200
PULSOUT rightservo, 750 - counter
NEXT

PAUSE 500

RETURN

reverseright:
PAUSE 1000

FOR counter = 1 TO 100
PULSOUT leftservo, 750 - counter
PULSOUT rightservo, 750 + counter
NEXT

PAUSE 500



RETURN

SO GOOD...

special thanks to my friend Krist for this:

Dvorak keyboard layout... a whole new learning experience.

Imagine if you can, going cold turkey on conventional QWERTY setup keyboards and going to a keyboard that looks like this:


This morning for fun/ a challenge I decided to convert my PowerBook G4 to a Dvorak keyboard setup. I am going to give myself 2 weeks and at the end of those 2 weeks I will post another blog detailing my findings, opinions, and whether or not I'll be keeping it or going back to QWERTY.


The Dvorak method of laying out keys is nothing new, it was patented in 1936. Here is the Wiki article about it: Clicky

SERIOUSLY, check these pictures out from the wedding this past weekend...

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