Black and White Photo Art.

This is a Color Photo Born Inside a Camera.

I use the rules of third as guide to determine where I place my colors.
This is a Side view of a Photograph.

A,3=Fore Ground Top.	B,3=Top Middle Ground.	C,3=Top Back Ground.
B,2=Fore Ground Middle	B,2=Mid Ground Middle.	C,2=Back Ground Middle.
A,1=Fore Ground Bottom.	B,1=Middle Ground Bottom.	C,1=Back Ground Bottom.

This is a Black and White Print Delivered inside my Darkroom.

This is Frontal view of a Photograph or scene.

X,3=Top Left.	Y,3=Top Middle.	Z,3=Top Right.
X,2Middle Left.	Y,2=Mid Middle	Z,2=Middle Right
X,1=Bottom Left.	Y,1=Bottom Middle.	Z,1=Bottom Right.

This is Hand Tinted Photo the Classic way.


This Technique can be applied to any Media. The colors lead the viewers eye to focus on certain areas of the Final Photo Art. I use only color film to create my Black and White Photo Art. Color films have three layers and Black and White Film have only two layers. I find that color films record the true mood of each scene as it really is. Reds are red, blues are blue, and greens are green. Black and white films records the tones and not the hues and the chroma of each scene as it exist. I use my color prints to aide in my color balancing process. This is the most exciting aspect of my 2 Zone Technique. I use Zone "A" to compose my Color Photo Art inside the camera. I then use Zone "B" to develop my Black and White Print.
I have a simple formula that I created to achieve my color balance and color contrast of each final print. I use the actual Color Photo as a guide when I Hand Tint my Black and White Photo the Classic way. I use up to 27 points when I color my prints.
The foreground = A, middle = B, back = C. The bottom = 1, middle = 2, and top = 3. I can place my hues of color in one the cubes to create unimaginable illusions of Grandeur.

How long does a Photograph last ? Some of the first ever made have held up perfectly, their images as durable as if they had been carved in stone. For Black and white Photos, archival processing is not very different from customary method of developing, fixing and washing. It basically an extension of the ordinary procedures, involving a few extra steps.
During development, those grains of silver salts that have been exposed to light are reduced to black metallic silver, which forms the image; but unexposed grains are reduced and remain in silver form of a silver compound. When these silver-fixer complexes decompose they produce a brown-yellow compound may discolor the entire print. Archival processing includes procedures that eliminate the traces of residual chemical that washing alone cannot entirely remove.
I Hand Tone all of my Black and White Photo Art the Classic way. There are several reasons for toning a black and white print: to make the photograph more permanent; I love to use BERG BROWN/COPPER Toning Solution is a single bath solution used for toning black and white prints or films, having no offensive odor. The tonal range is very long, giving initially a warming effect, then a brown tone, followed by a sepia and flesh, and finally a deep metallic copper tone. The actual tone produced depends on the length of time of toning and the photographic material.
Color Photo Art born inside a Camera the Classic way.

Black and White Photo Delivered in my Dark room.

Hand Tinted Black and White Photo the Classic way, Photo has been Copper Toned.

My Hand Tinted Photo Art is original and signed. Photo meets or exceeds Archive standards.

The goal during printing is usually to make a full-scale Black and White Print that has a full range of Tones and a realistic sense of texture and substance. You may deliberately depart from this goal at times. A test Print are judged for two characteristics: Density and Contrast.
Density refers to the overall darkness or lightness of the print. It is controlled primarily by the amount of Exposure, the greater the Density of Silver produced, the darker the Print. Exposure can be adjusted either by opening or closing the enlarger lens aperture or by changing the lenght of the Exposure time.
Contrast is the difference in brightness between light and dark areas within the print. A full scale Print of normal Contrast and Density has a wide range of Tones: rich blacks, many shades of gray, brilliant whites. A low-contrast or flat Black and White Print seems gray and weak with no real blacks or brilliant whites. A high-contrast Black and White Print seems harsh. Large shadows areas seem too dark and may print as solid black; highlights seem too light and may be completely white. Texture and details are missing in shadows, highlights or both. The contrast of a Black and White Photo is mainly controlled by the grade of paper used.
I use multi grade,matte enlarging paper. It gives me good contrast and fair density in the shoulder area. I Expose my prints in the middle gray area of the Zone scale. It allows me to Hand Tint all areas of my Print if I choose. I use the rules of third in my composition and balance. I then use my " 2 Zone Technique to apply my colors to the final Black and White Photo. It gives my Photo Art a three dimensional effect. I always add colors to my shadow areas to enhance texture and details unseen to the naked eye. I enjoy adding colors where there is a lack to enhance my balance and composition. This give my Black and White Photo Art that Special touch.
I am the only Photo Artist in the world that use the above mention techniques. My Photo Art is unique because of this Technique which I developed myself. Don't miss out on a chance to own tomorrows Piccasso. They are the best investment in todays Art world. Its still affordable, as time goes on those who own Black and White Photo Art will see their investment appreciate like no other type of Art. The main reason is, most Photos are taken with a digital camera and won't be around long enough to appraise, they will fade away in due time. My Photo Art matures and the Colors become more intense as they age gracefully. They are like a like fine vintage bottle of wine. If you have the chance to buy a Black and White Print do so. there are not many left on the market. I recommend going to flea markets or garage sell to look for these forgotten treasures of the past.

**I use color film to produce my Hand Tinted Black and White Photos. Color Photographs begins as Black-and-White negatives. Color film consist of three layers of emulsion, each layer basically the same in Black-and-White film, but responding to only one-third of the color spectrum. The top layer responds to Blue light, the middle layer to green light and the bottom layer to red light. When this film is exposed to color light and then developed, the result is a multilayered Black-and-white negative.
**Those who used Kodak for color film in the early 70's remember the old Blue dot flash. Kodak had their film produced on the Blue side of the color spectrum (blue balanced). Kodak had on the top layer of their emulsion more Blue color couplers than other brands. Kodak film responded very well to cool colors. Their film produced very cool colors
**Afga film had their film produced more on the Red side of the color spectrum (red balanced). Afga had on the bottom layer of their emulsion more Red color couplers than other brands. Their film produce very warm and rich colors.
**Fuji film had their film produced more on the Green side of the color spectrum (Green balanced). Fuji had more color couplers on the middle layers than other brands. They produced vivid green colors, cool in nature.
Most Photographers don't understand why they choose a particular brand of film. I choose my film based on my on interpretation of each scene, this allows me to manipulate Zone "B".
** When I Hand Tint my Black and White Photos, I can exploit the mood and feeling of each Photo based on the actual scene. I use Black and White photo paper to create my Photo Art.
I have a color Photo to guide and help in placement of the colors that I apply to each Photo. This give me the freedom to choose each color and areas which I decide to highlight. This is where I implement my "2 Zone Technique" to reveal the often hidden details that you will see only on the color print. This is where the fun begins. Feel free to try for your self the next time you want to create a Black and White Photo try using color film. After all color film is merely Black and White film with two additional layers added to the film emulsion. Have fun, and good Luck.

**The easiest way to control and adjust contrast is to change the contrast grade of Black and White paper-print, a high contrast negative on a low-contrast paper and low contrast negative on a high-contrast paper.
**A film's response to change in development is strong in the areas of greatest exposure (high, bright values) and weak in the areas of little exposure (low, shadow values). This occurs because the developer rapidly reduces the Silver Bromide Crystals that were struck by light in the slightly exposed shadow areas.
**The longer a negative is developed (up to a limit), the greater the Silver density that develops in high values, while the shadow densities remain about the same. Contrast increases as the spread between high value and low value densities increases, and it decreases as the spread decreases. The lenght of time a negative is developed has an important effect on the contrast.
**Changing the development time is simple if you are using Black and White sheet film, since each exposure can be given individual development. With Black and White roll film, changing the contrast grade of the paper is often more practical.
** Understanding the characteristic of Black and White Photo film and Black and White print Paper you can obtain any type of print to suit your needs. I prefer printing in zone IV to zone VII my Black and White Photo Art the Classic way. When I Hand Tint my black and White Photo Art the colors have a tendency to levitate. The colors place properly give the Photo a three dimension effect. This is where the magic begins, knowing what colors and where to tint. Toning brings out the mood of each scene.