Sail Away Travel

For most folks who either visit San Juan as a day-stop on a Caribbean itinerary or embark or disembark there, the island's biggest appeal is the old city. Cruise ships dock right in the heart of Old San Juan, which dates back to the 16th century. The old, walled city has been exquisitely preserved, and its sprawling forts, cobblestone streets, antique shops and art galleries make it an ideal first stop. Its mainstream attractions include the imposing El Morro fort, which dates back to 1539; the Cathedral of San Juan, where the island's first governor, Ponce de Leon, is buried; La Fortaleza, the oldest governor's mansion on U.S. soil; several colonial plazas; and the triumvirate of Calle del Cristo, Calle San Jose and Calle Fortaleza for shopping. Calle del Cristo, in particular, is chock-full of art galleries, artisan studios and distinctive boutiques.

But if you're a been-there-done-that visitor to Old San Juan, there's much more to explore. And there's one more thing to keep in mind, particularly for cruises that begin in San Juan: because airlift is more limited to San Juan than, say, port cities like Miami or Ft. Lauderdale, cruise ships typically wait until the last minute -- sometimes as late as 10 p.m. or even beyond -- to sail away. Which makes it possible to sample some of the city's vibrant nightlife (as long as you keep an eye on the clock).

Best Cocktail

Medalla Light is the local beer and while Bacardi is the better known rum produced in Puerto Rico, the locals prefer Don Q, an equally (if not more) venerable brand. For a great thirst quencher, try Marmalade's M317 -- Cointreau jelly, limoncello, triple sec, Campari and grapefruit espuma (it's a whipped cream without eggs); this is a martini by the way, and, no, I didn't have the guts to try it (Marmalade is located at 317 Fortaleza). The frozen mango dacquiri was nice, though...

Where You're Docked

Ships dock in two places. The best location is just across from the Sheraton Old San Juan (formerly known as the Wyndham) because you walk off the ship into the heart of the old city. Other times, your ship will dock just across the bay -- a stone's throw away -- but it's farther than it looks and you'll need to take a taxi to get anywhere.

Hanging Around

Old San Juan, which is an undergoing an awesome renaissance (if you haven't been lately you'll be amazed at how beautiful and spiffed-up its European-esque buildings are, particularly the many that are freshly painted in cheerful pastels of lavender, blue, yellow and pink). The Latino music phenomenon has led to a rebirth in a new, fresh "nuevo Latino" cuisine, which in turn is attracting more attention to the island's quality art, crafts and antiques.

Getting Around

On Foot: It's walking distance into compact -- yet fascinating -- Old San Juan. Streets are uneven (constructed of blue cobblestones cast from furnace slag) and hills are steep, so wear comfortable shoes.

Taxis: At the dock. You can also hail minibuses (called "omnibuses"), which shuttle along main routes; to hail one, respond with a wave when the driver toots his horn.

Trolleys: There's a free trolley that will take you around Old San Juan and to the forts. You can pick it up across from the information booth between cruise piers three and four.

Renting a Car: Rental car agencies, such as Hertz (800-654-3131, from $26.95) and Avis (800-831-2847, also from $26.95), operate out of Condado (about five miles from Old San Juan). Uniquely, both agencies will reimburse you for up to a $5 cab ride.

Don't Miss

Shopping in Old San Juan. While San Juan is not a duty-free port, at least its stuff isn't taxed. You'll certainly find plenty of ol' craft and T-shirt shops (particularly along Fortaleza and San Francisco Streets). One tip: the further east you walk (going away from the cruise pier) the more interesting the shops and restaurants get.

One great street for window shopping (if not buying) is Calle Cristo; highlights include Manolo Diaz (99 Calle Cristo), an artisan who works in his shop on crafts using recycled objects -- old mirrors, wooden shutters, antique windows and even pocket-sized religious icons. Prices start at $15 for one-of-a-kind pieces.

And, while not exactly exotic, we've had good luck at factory stores for Ralph Lauren, Coach and Gant on Calle Cristo. Sunny Caribbee (154 Calle Cristo) is an offshoot of the Tortola classic and features hot sauces and coffees made from Puerto Rican recipes, along with crafts; across the hall, El Galapon has gorgeous masks.

Historic sites of Old San Juan, such as El Morro (tours at 11 a.m. - 3 p.m., $3 entry fee for adults), whose original parts were completed in 1539 (and which successfully turned back would-be colonial powers from capturing the island). Also on Old San Juan is San Cristobal Fort (tours at 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.), which was built in 1771. On weekends the grounds of both forts are thick with locals flying kites.

Take a tour of La Fortaleza (9 a.m. - 11 a.m. and 1 p.m. - 3 p.m.). Visit the Catedral de San Juan, which dates back to 1540. Fans of the Spanish cellist Pablo Casals should check out the Museo Pablo Casals (Plaza San Jose, Tuesday - Saturday 9:30 a.m. - 4:45 p.m.), where the Spanish master's collection includes manuscripts, photographs and a library of video tapes of Festival Casals concerts (played on request).

The beach: While Old San Juan doesn't really boast any, the beaches in the nearby areas of Condado and Isla Verde, stretch along high rise hotels and are a 5- to 10-minute taxi ride (longer during rush hour) from the cruise pier.

Visit the Bacardi Rum Factory. Take the ferry to Catano (it leaves from Pier 2, right next to the cruise ship dock, every half hour and costs $1 roundtrip for the six minute ride; a bus from the Bacardi Rum Factory will pick you up for the tour.

Been There, Done That

Visit El Yunque, the only rainforest designated as a U.S. National Forest. Located about an hour south of San Juan, you'll see numerous waterfalls, ferns and wildflowers along the marked trails. Because it's a rainforest, it will probably, well, rain during your visit, so pack a slicker.

The Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico in Santurce (just south of Condado, 299 De Diego Avenue, open from 10 a.m. Tuesday - Sunday) exhibits elegant Puerto Rican art along with visiting themed shows. Also a must-see for art lovers is the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo de Puerto Rico (229 de Diego Avenue), which houses some 700 post-1940's works from artists of Puerto Rico, the Caribbean and Latin America.

You'll need to rent a car to visit Ponce, Puerto Rico's second largest city, which lies on the southern coast and, thanks to a speedy highway, is just a 90-minute drive away. While there, head first for the downtown plaza where highlights include the Parque de Bombas, a bizarre (and historic) red and black painted firehouse and the Catedral de la Guadalupe. Ignore the banal tourist tchotchkes at Coqui (9227 Calle Marina, across from Parque de Bombas) and head for the back of the shop, where gorgeous papier-mache masks (dragon faces, etc.) by the late artist Miguel Carballo are displayed (a mid-sized one costs $110). His wife Norma, also an artisan, has designed smaller ones ($20) and another local artist, Saure, also displays his masks here.

Just down the street is King's Cream, a famous ice cream stand; our limon-flavor was more like a creamy gelato. For a gourmet lunch, a must-visit place is around the corner from Coqui; Mark's at the Melia (Hotel Melia, 75 Calle Cristina, Wednesday - Sunday from noon - 3 p.m., 787-284-6275), owned by husband and wife team Mark and Melody French, is, alone, worth the drive to Ponce (at least for culinary aficionados)! Another star attraction is the Ponce Museum of Art (Las Americas Avenue, open daily from 10 a.m.), which features works by Rubens, Gainsborough, Ribera, Murillo and Sorolla.

For golfers, Bahia Beach is a hidden treasure; a car rental is required to get to this out-of-the-way 18-hole public course that sits at the base of El Yunque and fronts the sea with a gorgeous beach, framed by palms and palmettos. Being totally public, it's also open to non-golf playing visitors (though the club does ask that you politely ask permission). Golf clubs are available for rent.

Try your luck with casino gambling at the big hotels from the Sheraton Old San Juan to the Ritz-Carlton.

Beaches

Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: The beaches that run in front of Isla Verde's luxury hotels (about a 20-minute cab ride); ask the cabbie to drop you off at the Ritz-Carlton or the El San Juan.

Best Beach for the Dedicated Beach Bum: Luqillo Beach (near El Yunque) is a real locals' haunt; there you'll find long stretches of sand, water sports rentals and a great line of food stands offering classic Puerto Rican beach food.

Secluded Beach: The aforementioned Bahia Beach.

Lunching

Really casual, in-town joints:

Right off the ship head to La Bombonera (259 Calle San Francisco) and belly up to the counter to order a freshly squeezed glass of orange juice and one of their delicious mallorcas (or, for lunch, a classic Cubano sandwich). The circa-1903 bakery-lunch joint is open from 7:30 a.m. - 8:15 p.m. Tapas are big here. Among the great choices for "little plates" include Cafe Bohemio (adjacent to the Hotel El Convento); try the Yuquita Envuelta "fried cassava in bacon and tamarind sauce" note that cassava is like a potato -- and/or the Rolleno de Apio (cod stuffed fritters). The Parrot Club (363 Fortaleza) is the restaurant that inspired San Juan's gourmet revolution and while it's a bit more passe these days, it's one of the few in the trendy SoFo (south of Fortaleza restaurant district) to open for lunch. It's known for its Nuevo Latino cuisine.

Cafe 51 (51 Calle Cristo, serves all day) is a coffee house-style establishment that also serves pastries and sandwiches; nearby the just-opened El Buren Pizza Restaurant (103 Calle Cristo, 11 a.m.) has gourmet pizzas.

Gourmet Dining:

Because many ships embark out of San Juan and don't depart until late-night, cruisers should also consider dinner options. Head to the aforementioned SoFo where the hip restaurants of the moment include Marmalade (317 Fortaleza), which offers a U.S.-inspired menu that ranges from malpeque oysters, Hudson Valley foie gras and Virginia lamb (the roasted baby chick with almond fries and foie gras was out of this world). Also new is Cudeta (314 Fortaleza), with, which its pan-Asian cuisine, feels like something out of Bangkok; order the paella valenciana risotto or the shrimp curry. Aquaviva (364 Fortaleza Street) is another trendy place; it serves seafood (note the whimsical octopus-like chandeliers).

Baires (Plaza del Mercado 9, off San Sebastian Street, noon - 2:30 p.m., from 6 p.m.) was an unexpected find; the Argentinean-themed restaurant has live music some nights and delicious fare, from grilled sweetbreads to steaks to pasta. Dragonfly (364 Calle Fortaleza, from 6 p.m.), a fabulous Latino-Asian restaurant, offers "Dragonfries," which are french fries dusted with cinnamon and ginger. One note: Dragonfly has a pretentious "no reservations, no shorts" door policy.

Accommodations

For cruise passengers embarking or disembarking in San Juan (it's a big homeport for Southern Caribbean itineraries), here are a couple of hotels in Old San Juan:

The Grandest:

The El Convento Hotel (100 Calle Cristo, from $355), a one-time Carmelite convent in the 17th century, has long been a hotel but its recent refurbishment put it in the deluxe category.

The Chain Hotel:

Old San Juan has just one: the Sheraton Old San Juan (100 Brumbaugh St, from $265), which is the most convenient to the cruise ship terminal and has a casino. However the hotel (formerly a Wyndham) is in need of renovation and, frankly, a good cleaning.

The Funky, Chic, Quirky Hotel:

The Gallery Inn (204 Calle Norzagaray,from $145), facing the Atlantic, is a hodgepodge of historic houses all decorated in the ultimate funky style by its owner-artist. A few tips: there are lots of uneven steps, rooms are small, and you have to specify if you want a window. We told you it was quirky.

The Cheap, but Cheerful Hotel:

Hotel Milano (307 Fortaleza,from $85) is a wonderful addition to the scene; more like an Italian pensione, its rooms are clean, basic and inexpensive.

The Bohemian Bastion:

For those looking for charming and somewhat funky accomodations, the hotel known simply as Da House (312 Calle San Francisco,from $100) is a delight. Located in a prime location above the Nuyorican Cafe, a popular club and live music venue, this hipster haven is adorned with an eclectic assemblage of local art and boasts a friendly staff. The rooms are small and somewhat stripped-down, but what they have (uber-comfortable beds, great views and a ton of character) more than make up for what they don't (TVs).

Beyond the old city are some other recommendations:

Full-Service Beach Resort:

We loved a one-night pre-cruise stay at the Caribe Hilton, on the outskirts of the old city -- there are plenty of pools, beach, bars and eateries so you can just hang out. Or take a five-minute taxi to Old San Juan. It has been renovated in the past few years and has a lovely on-site spa.

Airport-Convenient. Embassy Suites Hotel The airport is located in the Isla Verde area, which claims the city's most luxurious hotel (the Ritz Carlton) along with a number of more moderate and/or family-oriented properties, such as Embassy Suites.

Most Luxurious in San Juan Itself:

The aforementioned Ritz Carlton, San Juan Hotel, Spa and Casino, from $400, hands-down; gorgeous beachfront and pools, elegant casino, highly acclaimed eateries. Ooh la la.

Best for Hip and Trendy:

Try the San Juan Water and Beach Club Hotel for its fab rooftop pool and a vibrant night scene. Prices from $150.

Most Luxurious for a Pre-Cruise Splurge:

Rent a car and drive to the island's west coast (about 2 hours); the Horned Dorset Primavera Rincon,is the island's premier small hotel and part of the prestigious Relais & Chateaux network.

Staying in Touch

The Crew Station (formerly known as Soapy's Internet Station) is on the waterfront, across from Dock 2. It has some funky opening hours (Monday 9 a.m.- 1 p.m., Tuesday 1 p.m. - 8 p.m., Wednesday 9 a.m. - 10 p.m., Thursday - Saturday 1 p.m. - 8 p.m. and Sunday 9 a.m. - 10 p.m.).