Mon Carnet de Voyage

My trip to the Champagne region of France on the weekend has given me a new appreciation of the bubbly stuff. I had a healthy appetite for it before, but now that I have experienced the why, how and where of champagne, I’d say I’m rather enthusiastic. I did learn though that more than four glasses results in a headache. This I think I knew already, but I had to be reminded.
Most people are aware that the French covet the moniker “Champagne” on their sparkling wine, rather fiercely. I’m content to agree with them (contrary to several Australian sparkling wine makers who have been asking for access to this label for some time). For a true sparkling wine from the Champagne region, is denoted by two certain factors, among others:

Climate: The region is actually really cold (which I also learnt on the weekend whilst half of France was under snow) and so instead of having vines that grow up high like we have in Australia to gain the benefit of the sun’s rays, in Champagne it is the soil that gives the grapes warmth, and hence the vines are close to the ground.

Chalk: The cellars of Maisons Champagnoise, are underground in the chalk deposits found in the area, and are cut a couple of stories down (often dug out by hand centuries ago). The chalk environment denotes a constant temperature for maturation of the champagne.

Champagne gets its sparkle from carbon dioxide, a natural product of the fermentation process in which yeast works on the natural grape sugars turning these sugars into alcohol. It was an 18th century monk, Dom Pérignon who invented the method of fermenting wine. And aren't we thankful he did?

Champagne is made using three varieties of grape – Pinot Meunier (a white grape with red skin), Chardonnay (a white grape) and Pinot Noir (a red grape). After the wine is fermented at 20 degrees, it is siphoned off from the sediment and stored at a colder temperature. The wine is then bottled, and stored for a variety of years (some vintages I saw at G.H. Mumm are still fermenting since 1893).

It then goes through several processes – one being remuage, where a man comes to visit the bottle every day, to turn it one eighth, one quarter or one half of a turn of the bottle, which results in slowly pushing the sediment (the yeast by-product from the magic sparkle moments) down into the neck of the bottle (think about his job for one minute…as he does this for 6 hours every day…that’s the limit as repetitive strain is a common aliment amongst remuagers). The below image, is the pupitres, where the wine is stored - it is here that the remuager does the bottle turning.

After remuage, comes dégorgement, where the bottle neck is rapidly frozen so that the sediment layer is ejected (carefully so that no champagne is lost), before it gets corked and possibly given a dosage of liqueur to sweeten it (such as a demi-sec brut). Stored again for another four months, it is then ready to drink.

Over the course of the weekend I visited the Moët & Chandon cellar in Épernay for a tour in English, and the Mumm cellar in Reims for a tour in French. I would have liked to visit the cellar of Krug, which is also a favourite, but I only found out that they were in Épernay, after I left that town. Looks like I’ll have to go back there one day…

As I am finding in France, vice goes hand in hand perfectly with religion (see previous blogs on the Marais quarter, and the Monmartre quarter…) so I should also point out that I spent the weekend flitting between ancient cathedrals and churches, in between the many coupes that I partook (a coupe, is the local word for a glass of champagne. I found out too late that you can ask for a coupette which is slightly smaller…)

Of the four churches and cathedrals that I visited over the Easter weekend (I am now feeling very holy and resolved of all sin clocked up by drinking the bubbles), the most impressive was the Reims Cathedral.

The Gothic Cathédrale Notre-Dame in Reims (above), where French kings were traditionally coronated, recently celebrated the 1500th anniversary of the coronation of Charles X (the anniversary was in 1996). A cathedral has stood on the site since 401, but the present building was begun in 1211, and it was also damaged during the revolution, and during WW1. Now, it has been fully restored to its former glory.

Possibly the best cathedral moment, was entering the Church of Notre Dame at Epernay, to find that I was the only person there. Having a whole cathedral to yourself, on Easter Saturday is a rather holy experience, especially when confronted with this image:

Wierd and wonderful Observations of the Week

On a more observational note, I am tiring of the following questions (which are by no means indicative of the general populace, just a popular conversation I seem to be having):

Are you English or American?

What language do you speak in Australia?

Tasmania is part of Australia? Really?

…and this pearler:

You have destitution there at the moment don’t you? I saw it on the news? No, hang on…that’s Brazil.
I think he meant Zimbabwe. This from a man I was asking directions from – I promptly sought help from someone else.

Happy to keep paradise a secret at this point…and yes, we do ride Kangaroos to school.

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Below image, is the Basilica St-Remi. Pretty, isn't it?