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Tinkering the figurine - part 2

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In the second step I now buy the tools and equipment I need. I cut off the some rough parts, deburr the figurine and prepare it for step three. I will try to provide a photo for every step, but some photos might be of poor quality due to the fact that I have only 2 hands. :wink:

As promised I'll go on in three languages (english, german and norwegian). I hope you enjoy this part. Feel free to leave comments.
The norwegian translation was done by GILLA. Tusen takk!




The stuff we need
For the beginning we won't buy any colors, but just the few tools we need to prepare the figurine. We need a scapel, a sharp side cutter, 2 sheets of sand paper (granulation ~P250 and ~P500 (see wikipedia)) and some superglue in case we accidently break something. In some cases you would also need some modelling putty (if the model has severe damages, holes or the parts won't fit al all). I bought everything from a local hardware store for around 15Euros (see photo 1).

Removing the rough parts
You can skip this step by directly cutting the rough with the scapel, but I recommend not to do so, to prevent you from getting injured! A scapel is extremly sharp and can easily slip from the resin into your fingers! I use a side cutter to remove the rough parts. Just keep in mind not to cut too deeply (see photo 2), because it's always easier to remove something carefully than to reconstruct something you cut off accidently. :wink:
If you think that some parts are too filigree to cut with a side cutter and might break, don't use the side cutter on those parts (see photo 3). Resin changes its consistence when aging. While new resin is soft and easily to cut and shape, older resin gets brittle and can break easily. It is risky to cut fine parts with the side cutter, as you can ruin the parts forever.
You might also consider to wear safety glasses as sometimes the fragments are flying around and can hurt your eyes pretty badly.

Shaping the fine parts
Now I get to the most dangerous part. The deburring with the scapel often leads to minor wounds and almost every figurine I finished so far has seen some drops of my blood. So be careful here (and make sure you know where fresh water and band-aids are). First I cut the fine fragments off from the parts (photo 4), then I start using the scapel like a scraping tool and slowly cut razor thin fragments fron the parts until I am close to the final surface of that part. Make sure not to to off too much, as you will sand the parts later of too (photo 5).

To make sure that you are done with this step you can test if the parts fit. The head should always fit very well, as this will be the most recognized part (photo 6). For checking the body I like to use a rubber band and connect the parts. If it doesn't fall apart at once the parts are already fitting well (photo 7) and will fit even better when we are done with sanding and such.





Was wir brauchen
An Anfang werden wir noch keine Farben kaufen, sondern lediglich ein paar Werkzeuge, welche wir zur Vorbereitung der Figur benötigen. Wir brauchen ein Skalpell, einen scharfen Seitenschneider, 2 Bögen Schleifpapier (Körnung etwa 250 und 500) und etwas Sekundenkleber, falls wir versehentlich etwas zerbrechen. In einigen Fällen wird auch Spachtelmasse benötigt (falls das Model größere Schäden, Löcher oder Ungenauigkeiten aufweist). Ich habe alles in einem Baumarkt für 15Euro gekauft (Photo 1).

Die groben Teile entfernen
Diesen Schritt kann man überspringen und direkt mit dem Skalpell weiterarbeiten, doch ich rate davon ab um Verletzungen zu vermeiden. Ein Skalpell ist äußerst scharf und kann leicht vom Resin in den Finger gleiten! Ich benutze daher einen Seitenschneider um die groben Teile zu entfernen. Man sollte nur im Hinterkopf behalten, dass man nicht zu viel abschneidet (Photo 2), da es immer leichter ist etwas zu entfernen als es zu rekonstruieren. :wink:
Solte ein Teil zu filigran für den Scheitenschneider erscheinen, sollte man diese Teile später mit dem Skalpell bearbeiten. Resin verändert sich wenn es altert. Neues Resin ist weich und lässt sich gut schneiden und ausgestalten, älteres Resin dagegen wird spröde und brüchig. Daher ist es immer riskant feine Teile mit dem Seitenschneider zu bearbeiten, da man das Teil für immer ruinieren kann.
Nicht-Brillenträger sollten übrigens eine einfache Schutzbrille in Erwägung ziehen, da manchmal Splitter umherfliegen und leicht die Augen verletzen könnten.

Die feine Teile bearbeiten
Jetzt komme ich zum gefährlichsten Teil. Das Entgraten mit dem Skalpell führt oftmals zu kleineren Wunden und bisher hat fast jede meiner Figuren einige Tropfen Blut von mir gesehen. Also Vorsicht (und Frischwasser und Heftpflaster bereit halten). Zunächst schneide ich die feinen Fragmente von den Teilen ab (Photo 4), danach benutze ich das Skalpell wie einen Schaber und trage haudünne Schichten ab bis ich die gewünschte Oberfläche fast erreicht habe. Auch hierbei sollte man sicherstellen, dass man nicht zuviel abträgt, schließlich schleifen wir die Teile ja auch noch (Photo 5).

Am Ende sollte man noch die Passgenauigkeit der Teile prüfen. Den Kopf sollte man dabei immer prüfen, da er später der meistangesehende Teil sein wird (Photo 6). Um den Körper zu prüfen benutze ich gerne ein Gummiband und verbinde die Teile. Wenn es nicht sofort auseinanderfällt passen die Teile schon ganz ordentlich (Photo 7) und werden noch besser passen nach dem Schleifen.





Tingene vi trenger
Til å begynne med kjøper vi ingen farger, men bare noen få verktøy som vi trenger til å lage figurene. Vi trenger en skalpell, en skarp sidekutter, 2 ark med sandpapir (styrke ~250 og ~500 (se wikipedia)), og litt superlim i tilfelle uhell og vi brekker noe. I noen tilfeller trenger man også litt modellkitt (hvis modellen har flere skader, hull eller hvis delene ikke passer sammen i det hele tatt). Jeg kjøpte alt hos en lokal jernvarehandel for rundt 15 euro (se bilde 1).

Fjerning av de grove delene
Du kan hoppe over dette skrittet ved å kutte det grove rett av med skalpellen, men jeg anbefaler ikke å gjøre det, for å unngå å skade deg! Skalpellen er veldig skarp og kan lett skli/gli fra resinen. Jeg bruker en skarp sidekutter til å fjerne de grove delene. Men husk på å ikke kutte for dypt (se bilde 2), fordi det er alltid lettere å fjerne noe forsiktig etter litt enn det er å rekonstruere noe du kuttet av ved et uhell.

Hvis du tror noen av delene er for filigrane til å kutte med sidekutteren og kan knekke, ikke bruk den på disse delene (se bilde 3). Resin endrer konsistens når den aldres. Mens ny resin er myk og lett kan kuttes og formes, blir eldre resin sprø og knekker lett. Det er risikabelt å kutte de finere delene med sidekutteren fordi du kan ødelegge delene for godt.
Det kan også være en fordel å bruke beskyttelsesbriller siden fragmenter flyr rundt og kan skade øynene dine ganske alvorlig.

Forming av de "finere" parter
Nå kommer jeg til den farligste delen. Finskjæring med skalpellen kan ofte føre til mindre sår og nesten hver figur jeg har lagd så langt har sett noen dråper av mitt blod. Så hver forsiktig her (og ha oversikt over hvor rent vann og plaster er). Først jeg kutter av de overflødige bitene fra selve hoveddelen (se bilde 4), så jeg begynner å bruke skalpellen som et skrapeverktøy og kutter forsiktig syltynne biter fra delene til jeg nærmer meg den endelige overflaten av biten. Pass på at du ikke kutter vekk for mye, du skal pusse delene senere også (se bilde 5).

For å være sikker på at du er ferdig med denne prosessen av arbeidet du kan prøve ut om delene passer sammen. Hodet bør passe veldig godt, siden dette vil være den mest synlige delen (se bilde 6). For å skjekke kroppen jeg liker å bruke et gummistrikk til å feste sammen delene. Hvis det ikke detter fra hverandre tilsier det at delene passer godt sammen (bilde 7) og vil dermed passe enda bedre når vi er ferdig med pussingen og sånt.

CSSing your my.opera site - part 3Old car, new old car

Comments

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OMG you need to have lots of patience to do that! :eyes:

By yomeriux, # 2. April 2008, 17:12:01

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A nice hobby.
It's relaxing, silent and rewarding. :smile:
When the figurine is done you know the true value of it.

I think I should translate the whole blog into norwegian, to get more routine in that language.

By Schalandra, # 2. April 2008, 18:27:13

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that's great!:yes:

You wouldn't get bored to translate everything?:left:

By yomeriux, # 2. April 2008, 22:06:57

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Uhm... I want to emigrate to Norway within the next years so I should be able to express myself in norwegian too. I think my english is already ok (not good, but acceptable), but I just started to learn norwegian and it is still very poor. :worried:

It's not a matter of boredom but time and my weaker self. :whistle:

By Schalandra, # 3. April 2008, 07:48:30

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Your English is very good! in the end you don`t have to speak perfectly.

I know what you mean, I have been trying to learn French on my own in the computer and with books and it`s the most boring thing ever!:insane:

By yomeriux, # 3. April 2008, 13:27:44

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I SHOULD be able to speak 4 languages, but I forgot almost everything about french and russian. So I stay with german and english and learn norwegian now. :yes:

By Schalandra, # 3. April 2008, 14:50:22

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:eyes: wow!

By yomeriux, # 3. April 2008, 16:14:51

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its great hobby, love it, You are good teacher, thanks for the info :smile:

By ~Keilarina~, # 6. April 2008, 20:19:26

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Sometimes I wish I would have chosen to become a teacher. But now I'm a bit too old to change my job. :frown:

More about the figurine will hopefully come soon, but this weekend I was too lazy to continue on it. :rolleyes:

By Schalandra, # 7. April 2008, 08:24:47

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this weekend i was to lazy too :frown: bcoz weather was rainy, cloudy and grey :frown:

good night for now :zzz:

peace!

By ~Keilarina~, # 8. April 2008, 19:53:18

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