Monday, 11. June 2007, 17:13:46
I don't know why the prairies have a reputation for being flat. They have plenty of rugged topography, but it works the other way around to most places. We are accustomed to looking up and seeing hills and mountains. In the plains, you look
down to see coulees and badlands. Those little green dots down there are huge cottonwood trees!

This is the other-worldly landscape of Dinosaur Provincial Park, one of Alberta's most extraordinary corners. Like regular coulees, the badlands of the Red Deer River are invisible until you are almost on top of them, staring in amazement at the gaping hole that has suddenly opened up in the midst of lush prairie. I can well understand why early pioneers thought them "bad lands" to cross. But they are good lands to photograph

Eroded by water, ice and wind, the exposed valley has revealed arguably the most astonishing collection of fossils found anywere on earth. Something like 35 species of dinosaur and 150 complete skeletons have been found so far, and work still continues. This is a paleontologist's dreamscape

Though many dinosaurs have been shipped to museums around the world, a few are on display in the field centre museum. I forget what species this is

The prairie itself has taken one heck of a hammering over the past hundred years, especially the mammals. But it's still a great place to watch birds. Rephrase - it's an incredible place to watch birds

My raptor list alone included peregrine, red-tailed hawk, swainson's hawk, prairie falcon, bald eagle (admittedly, that was little higher up) American kestrel, merlin, and northern harrier (the hen harrier or skydancer of Europe).
This is a red-tailed hawk.
And, from a totally different genus

here is another favourite - Wilson's snipe. It makes a curious pulsating sound while flying as air rushes through its feathers.
Mammals have suffered much more than birds since the prairie was developed but I still caught a few glimpses of possibly the most beautifully prairie-fied creature of all, North America's fastest mammal and the last survivor of an extraordinary family that roamed the continent in ancient times. This is the pronghorn, unique in all the Earth.
It can sprint at 100kph and spot a wolf 5km away - something that is curious, since an adult pronghorn has no real predators. But this is the
the ghost of predation past - adaptions to an ancient enemy which no longer exists. Long, long ago, pronghorns were hunted by American cheetahs (which died out, along with something like 80% of North American mammals, at the end of the last ice age). One can only assume the cheetah was faster still, in order to catch such a swift prey. The cat is gone; the pronghorn survives with somewhat redundant defences.
In Waterton and Dinosaur parks themselves, where wildlife is protected, I saw a great range of mammals and took a great number of pictures

but I've only got time for one more now.
There are two species of small deer here - whitetails and mule deer - and telling them apart is a bit of a pain for newcomers. I suppose I'd always wanted to get a picture like this to explain the difference

One of my most odd deer sightings ever, a whitetail and a mule deer fleeing hoof in hoof across the plains from some common foe, possibly a cougar lurking invisible in an aspen grove. The whitetail is the higher one in this photo. Note the difference in their rump markings...
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I'm now on Vancouver Island but not in the village where I will be living (found another hotel with wifi!)