Historiae

UPDATE: This guide should also work for the Quickmill 810/810R.
The former owner send the approximately six-year-old machine in a package by mail and when I opened it I was, of course, a happy man . At least, for about ten minutes . While making my first cup, I noticed the following problems:

• When making a traditional espresso, water not only leaked out of the piston (filter holder) as it should, but also out of the steam spout. (Not immediately, but after a few seconds.)
• When using the steamer, I noticed water also coming out of the piston (filter holder).
• When tapping hot water from the steam-spout, it also leaked out of the piston.

Basically what I'm trying to say is: water was coming out of all holes all the time
However, I did not immediately throw my new-used machine out of the window, because one of the reasons I bought a Quick Mill, was that I was told it was a machine easy to repair. That turned out to be right.

It seemed to me, that I could not be the only one facing this problem. Therefore I decided to make this step-by-step tutorial, to guide other owners through the process. Though I wrote it specifically for the 820 type, maybe it can be applied (with some adaptations) to other Quick Mill machines.

So. How did I do it?

Equipment
Here is what you definitely are going to need (may vary depending on building year i think):

1. Normal screwdriver (in English I think it is called a 'Phillips-head' or 'Pozidriv-head')
2. Wrenches size 10,16,18,19
3. Hex key 4
4. Espresso-machine decalcifier

Step 1: read me first
I recommend you only do this, when your machine is out of warranty. Don't mess with your machine, risking braking it beyond repair if you can still let the professionals of Quickmill's repair service do it for you (maybe even free if it's in warranty). Also don't try it, when your a technical n00b or have 'two left hands' (when you're clumsy ). Though it's a solid machine when using it for making coffee, the inside parts are very delicate and should only be touched by people who know what they are doing! And as closure of my boring precaution alerts: before you do anything: unplug the power source first!

Step 2: looking inside
Unscrew the bolt on top of the cup warmer lid (see picture). Remove the lid, and you will be able to see what's happening inside the Quick Mill 820.
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Step 3: remove 'four-way-water-director'
The most probable cause of the problem lies inside the 'four-way-water-director', which is a name i made up my self This constitutes the water directing copper-tube, including all the rubber and metal O-rings. For readers' convenience though, I will call the whole thing 'water-splitter'.
As you probably know if you own a Quickmill, turning the steam-spout will mechanically activate a relatively sophisticated opening-and-closing procedure of various rings and pins inside the water-splitter! I was quite surprised noticing this! Maybe because it's sophisticated, it's also vulnerable. Calcium deposits and wearing down of the rubber rings almost inevitable cause water-leakage, especially after long usage.
To remove the copper water-splitter, you have to unscrew the screws on the picture. Some of them were fixed tightly, but all of them came off eventually. (Assure you turn left , some people seam to be struggling with a life-long left-right-turn misunderstanding). After you're done, you can remove the splitter! The steam-spout is still attached, but that shouldn't cause problems when removing it.
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Step 4: unscrewing it to pieces
With the right tools, you can now disassemble the inside parts. I leave that up to yourself, it is quite easy. In the picture below, you see the parts in the order in which they came out.
Try to understand how the splitter works. This will be of use, when assembling it later and to understand the causes of problems you may be facing in the future.

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The problem of water leakage is twofold: calcium deposits and rubber-O-ring wear-down. The water deposits make surfaces rough, allowing water-leakage between spaces that should be sealed. Old rubber rings that are stiff and brittle, also allow water-leakage. So this is the solution: decalcify the parts and replace all O-rings by new ones.

Step 5: Decalcify
Buy decalcifier (detartant) at a locale store. Try to get a bottle specifically for espresso machines. (I must admit I don't know the difference between 'normal' and 'espresso-machine'-decalcifier, but it seamed a safer choice ) Mix the decalcifier with water. I used a higher concentration decalcifier to make sure it would clean even the hard calcium scales. Now, drown the metal parts of the water-splitter completely in the solution, and be patient! Let it soak for at least two hours to solve all the calcium in the water. Meanwhile, you can proceed to step 6.

Step 6: fresh O-rings
My advise is: because you already opened up the whole thing, why not replace all O-rings, even the ones where you are not sure about their wear-down level. Inside the copper tube I have found two rings, which are the most probable cause of leakage! But I also replaced the two rings on the steam-spout, because they looked a bit stiff to me. (see picture)
Finding those rings probably will be a time-consuming job. It cost me a whole afternoon scootering from one shop to another. Take the little iron 'piston' where the rings should slide on with you! Including the old rings, so you can easily compare. Depending on the mood of the employee, they will put a hand full of rings on the counter and help you search for the right ring. Make sure it is the same size. When it feels loose, don't buy it, when you have to stretch and force it on, also don't buy it. It should slide on with a slight resistance and may be a little bit thicker in account for the wear-down of the old one. Buy an extra pair: maybe you accidentally break one or maybe you have to do the same procedure six years from now
The rings shouldn't cost more than a few dollars.
[A little hint for readers from the Netherlands: I bought exactly the right ring at GAMMA in a collection-package with various sized rings at the water-tubes-division by the draining pipes etc.]

Step 7: putting it together
I'm not going to explain this in detail. It's basically the disassembly in reverse order. Rinse the remaining decalcifier from the parts and secure everything tightly.

If you don't know sure how tightly exactly you should screw the bolds and nuts, then don't screw it too tight, in first instance. Make sure though, it's tight enough to prevent it from heavy leaking. Now put the splitter back in and attach all tubes and hoses. Now, let water run trough the system as you would when making coffee and see if it leaks from the screws: if so: tighten them more after unplugging the power source (because it's wet it can short-circuit)!

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Now you can test it! It should not leak any more, when either making an espresso, frothing milk or tapping hot water! I hope this works as good for you as it did for me! And don't forget to celebrate by having a nice cup of ... coffee!

Please let me know if this was useful to you! If I made any mistakes or if you have additions to the text, please leave a comment.