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Ceci n'est pas un blog

trials, travels, and travails

Posts tagged with "food"

culture

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First, a puzzle.

There are at least 5 mallard drakes in the pond in the park by our house. I've seen their brides, some weeks ago, but lately it's just the men. Where have the ladies gone?

H went with me to walk the dogs late one bright evening this week. As we passed by the water (she insists on throwing a pinecone in each time we go by) I asked her and she said, "I think I don't really know."


We have fairly regular manager training sessions and the most recent one was about culture and working cross culturally. There were exercises and lectures and no shortage of anecdote from both instructor and colleagues. We have roughly 41 nationalities represented among our employees and I believe the Oslo office has at least one of each. The company providing the training measures each countries values with 5 factors that have to with long term planning, risk aversion, individuality vs collective thinking. We all did a little self test assessment to see how well we fit the expectation of our home country and Norway.
Mostly I sat in between Norway and the US ... BUT one of the categories is misleadingly called "Masculinty"; this referes to the compassion and family orientedness of the culture.

Sweden has the lowest Masculinity of any country with a 4 followed closely by Norway with an 8. The US is almost a 70 and, I believe, Japan topped the Mas value with something in the 90s.

Mine was a zero (0). I am off-the-chart Feminine, while the department comprised of 3 women had the most Masculine score in the company. Like I said, it is misleadingly named. But I am proud of my score and glad that I'm a fit with the strong Scandinavian emphasis on caring, work-life balance, etc.


This week my boss took his direct reports out for a much needed evening of team building. This was accomplished by way of fine dining and an accompanying bottle of wine. It should go without saying that we all get along and enjoyed visiting in an off-campus setting. There are a lot of changes afoot to our group with one moving to another city, following his s.o. off to the south.

The atmosphere was really nice at the restaurant with it's wooden walls covered in whimsical watercolors, pen&ink drawings, and little sketches. The wait staff were very knowledgeable and helped us interpret the novella-sized wine list. Apparently they have an established tradition of recommending against any German wine to go with fish.

They recommend a seven course fixed price meal that can be cut to three courses but also have a nice a la carte selection. Some of the presentation was a bit twee (the itty bitty perfect pyramid of puree spinach was amusing and the scallop apetizer, which appeared to be lovely and raised smile on those who had it, was served on an absurdly elongated plate that didn't fit the åplace settings and forced peole to move their glasses or side dishes. But overall they maintained the air of casual with high quality. We didn't feel out of place in t-shirts and jeans even though the quality and prices are clearly up-scale.

Main course portions were lovely, not the tiny arty presentation I expected and not the American style excess, just the right amount. The desserts ranged from Mascarpone with Norwegian berries to a tarte of summer berries with homemade icecream to a selection of cheeses and homemade breads. A slice of the dark nut and fig bread was particularly good with coffee and the tart was really beautiful and well executed.

Walking back in the light summer rain, feeling sated but not stuffed, there was lots of laughing and joking. All in all a good team building, certainly more my style than playing laser tag or spending a weekend on a ropes course in an Eastern European forest.

Julebord

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Last night was the company holiday party.

220 people went and everyone had on their finest finery ranging from sneakers and an untucked shirt with a tie to a full tuxedo. The man in the red shirt with a bolo tie and Texas-style suit jacket had the perfect Continental Club look. Before we left, pockets of men in suits clustered in the hallways to begin the pre-party drinking.

The women were in cocktail dresses, evening make-up, and high-maintenance hair. I have to say that all of the color and curlers and crimping and spraying did several of the women a dis-service as they seem more elegant, to me, in their work clothes with a more simple look.

Overall it was a typical corporate party. There were some speeches, some prizes, some humorous photos followed by the smokers fleeing out of doors, the dancers taking to the floor, and the drinkers collecting unused tickets and heading to the bar.

One thing that placed us squarely in Norway was the "skål" toasting. At several tables it began as low rumble, building like a Tibetan chant or a collective Mongolian throat singing, into one long sustained syllable rising to fill the room. Often the people would rise with the sound and at one point a table of 10 were all standing on their chairs to keep rising with the sound. To be fair, there was the traditional "skål" and looking at each person in turn, then drinking but there was also this deep multi-tonal, minutes-long, Ohm-like "skoooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOlllllll". It was very impressive.

The dinner itself was quite nice. Since the location and menu were all secret, I had requested a vegetarian option. The planners made a sign with a cut out picture of a carrot that would stand like a flag at our place so the waiters would know. Kenneth thought this was a riot and made a sign for his place in the shape of a steak so they would know he was carnivore. However, I learned the menu before dinner and as it was all safe for me, I bequeathed my carrot on a stick to a strict vegetarian who had forgotten hers.

The dinner came in 3 courses. We started with a small halibut lasagna on a bed of greens. It was very light, no cheese, and about the size and shape of a normal cut of baklava. It was served with a nice but not outstanding white wine from Alsace. Very minerally, not too sweet. The young German next to me thought it was served a couple years too soon. He was quiet until the conversation turned to wines from the Mosel and Alsace region near where he grew up. He was pleased that Americans seem to be discovering Rieslings and expressed his distaste for Liebfraumilch and embarassment that this was what Americans associated with German wine.

Our fish course was followed by duck. The large portion was served with a, rather safe traditional, rich brown sauce and accompanied by a stuffed mushroom and slice of a cucumber-sized squash that had been hollowed out and filled with a vegetable puree. The duck was cooked very well and the fat just slip away from the meat. It was so dark and without the greasy quality that duck sometimes has that several people at the table thought it was beef. This was served with a red wine that was quite appropriate to the meal, rich without being overbearing.

Our dessert was a layer of white chocolate mousse over dark chocolate mousse with our logo on it. Served with coffee. Each table came with Christmas crackers (the kind that pop when you pull them with a joke and crown inside) and bubbles. Conversation was good and all over the map with a surprising shortage of geek-speak.

I met the young man from Bombay who is working on fixing the problem many of you have had leaving comments on this site. He's an interesting fellow, reads Dostoevsky, Somerset Maughm, and re-reads Sidhartha by Herman Hesse every year. He said his copy is in tatters.

I took the early bus home and had a nice visit with my boss on the way back. And then I learned an important lesson ...

If you ever don't take your phone somewhere, it will be the one time there is hold up with the dog shipping and your wife has tried 16 times to reach you. The dog shipper needed me to confirm with Lufthansa Cargo here in Oslo before everyone had the all clear for the dogs to come. My wife told the shippers, "he can't do it today on account of being surrounded by drunken Norwegians". Could there be a better excuse?

even more thanksgiving

Sunday night I went to a colleague's for Thanksgiving at their home in a nearby suburb with his family and a few people from the office.

On the train I ran into another couple going to the party and we wandered the picturesque neighborhood, chatting and getting lost together. A short conversation with a passing motorist cleared up our location and, with luck, we found the unlit and nearly unmarked pedestrian path down aged wooden stairs that put us on the proper road.

The evening was lovely. His (our host's) in-laws have been in the home for quite some time and it was filled with well used furniture, layers of rugs, curios, a much used leather wingback chair sat squarely in front of the fireplace. The dining room, dark red walls hung with etchings of the Bergen harbor, was filled to capacity. There were children and 30 somethings and an older man who had travelled widely, read extensively, and makes his own black currant jam.

We had turkey and lingonberries and sweet potatoes and stuffing and "American Blend" (corn, peas, and diced carrots). There were homemade cookies, pumpkin pie, and ice cream. I made a swedish apple pie that seems to have been a success with the guests.

From what I could tell the variety of first-languages included English, Norwegian, Swedish, Spanish, and Italian but the number of languages known by various guests far exceeded that. This seemed fitting. My family is entirely entangled and enmeshed with a family from Costa Rica and we always end up talking about language at holiday gatherings.

The family dog, an eight year old short haired pointer, nuzzled each visitor and begged successfully for attention and unsuccessfully for food. Our hosts and the puppy joined us on our walk back to the train, which we very nearly missed. It took a mad dash at the end to reach the last car just before it pulled away. We fell into the seats panting, a bit exhausted from our full-bellied sprint.

The walk home from the train station was lovely. Chistmas lights are starting to appear above the streets; it was clear and crisp. At one point I passed two girls, one with red devil horns, the other with a halo, otherwise dressed quite normally. Once back to my still-smelling-of-apples-and-cinnamon apartment, it was nice to sit by the window, read for a bit, and have a cup (or two or three) of tea.

even more tex mex

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I confess. It didn't take much to be convinced to go to Mucho Mas with a co-worker. And just hours after I said I would save such an expedition for the icy depths of a potential future homesickness.

We went to the one in Grünerløkka near the office. The clear warm day had turned into a cloudy and cold night and my teeth chattered a bit on the way there.

It's definitely not a fast food place. In an old building with high ceilings and maybe a dozen tightly packed tables, it has a warm and cozy vibe. We waited about 5 minutes for a table.

I didn't even look to see whether margaritas were on the menu, settled instead for Frydenlund pils on tap. My shrimp tacos were quite good with beans, rice, and salad on the side. It's not true Texas style but the food was good and the atmosphere quite nice. I think when the weather is a bit warmer they put a few tables outside and you can people watch and sit in the sun.

Hans had a burrito as big as his head. They are clearly not meant to be picked up, a knife and fork are required.

In other news I did get very good tickets to the Oslo Filharmonien this week. Previn is conducting Beethoven's Ouverture Coriolan and Symphony no. 4 and Mozart's Violin Concerto no. 5. I'm not familiar with these pieces but it should be a good crowd and the Oslo symphony has a great reputation.

I had the option to go to a contemporary dance piece in a small venue near by that looked quite interesting. It had a great title, "and on that night I found her quite alluring". It was a tough decision.

I'm looking forward to seeing what the citydoes with the new opera house they are building down by the old castle. The plan is to make something dramatic that will be as well known and as associated with it's city as the Sydney Opera house. The one here is planned to have a low, gently sloping roof that people can walk up on and look over the water. If this pic is accurate, I'm not entirely sure it will make the dramatic postcard and cinematic statement they hope for. Check out the Pictures link on the right for more renderings.

tex mex a la oslo

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Wow. Went upstairs to the canteen for lunch today and was met by the familiar smell of Tex-Mex. It wasn't the same as in Texas but there was guacamole (not like we make it but good), sour-cream, tortillas, taco shells, and unusual but quite edible vegetarian and meat filler. With red beans and corn, it was a good hearty meal on a sunny but cool Fall day.

There's a local Mexican food chain here called Mucho Mas that I haven't tried yet. Apparently the prices are good for the portions here but it's still conceptually hard for an Austin expat to think of burritos and taco plates as something other than the least expensive option in town. I'll save my first outing there for sometime down the road when the snow has long since turned to a grey icy slush and the skies darken early in the afternoon and the first pangs of homesickness turn inside us. then it will be time to calm the insidious creature with tortillas and salsa and maybe even a Mexican beer.

In other Opera/food related silliness, there is a new sign out in front of our office that says:
We Make Web Browsers
Not Falafel.
Sorry.

Last Friday I missed Previn conducting Carmina Burana. Andre Previn has been the director of the Oslo Philharmonic for a while now. I'd have liked to have seen this famed conductor (and famed ex of Mia Farrow and father to Soon-Yi) performing such a dynamic piece. Although it has been used in a million movies and previews, I've rarely heard the whole thing and this has got to be one of Previn's last performances here since I believe I read that 2006 is his final season in Norway.

That will teach me not to look ahead at what's happening in town.

We do have a things-to-do mailing list at the office. Several people are planning to go to a trance concert by Sander van Doorn in a couple weeks that could be a lot of fun. I'm just starting to learn where to look for things that are going on in town. Last night there was a discussion in English on digital art called something like, "software in the age of hyperactivity". I wasn't able to make that one but it's good to know that visiting artisits and theater and lecture series are available for the Norwegian impaired.

Now we just need to start the Expat Cinema that provides English subtitles for Norwegian films.

Kylling fields

Mostly there's been no new news here.

Many of my colleagues are away on holiday, work is progressing fairly well, the apartment hunt continues to be drawn out by our first choice's owner hestating about the dogs and waiting to see whether anyone else is as interested in her place as we are, and still no word on selling our house in Texas. </sigh>

S is juggling single motherhood with a job, dogs, house showings, and a little girl who is acting out and testing her bounderies because she is three and because things are changing all around her, and because it gets attention. S is amazing; still, I wish there was more tangible I could do.

I left my unmbrella at an apartment visning and am getting by dry enough in my raincoat but I mention it because I learned a greatr Norwegian expression today: there's no bad weather, just bad clothing. It's a good idiom for a wet and mostly cold place, not sure it applies in Texas. The other great Norwegian expresion is "it's like peeing in your pants to stay warm" which basically means the same as the English "penny wise, pound foolish".

One nice thing that happened this week was that my Swiss roommate went home for his father's 80th birthday and left me his Kylling (chicken) and leeks and milk and so on. Chicken is amazingling expensive here, so this was a nice treat. My boss and I were speculating that it's more expensive because they do not have the poultry factories that we have in the States, growth hormones are also not allowed. So the cost to "grow" a chicken is higher and they yield less meat per bird. Karla also pointed out that they have less of a tradition for it as eggs, historically, were sustainable while eating the chickens, less so.

Anyway, made a couple of nice little dinners with sauteed leeks and onion in butter with chicken and hearty bread.

hot waffles

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Every Saturday there is an open air antique market in the Majorstuen/Frogner area near the big park. I've been to the flea market in Grünerløkka, the more Bohemian part of town, and was interested to see how this would differ as it's in a fairly posh area near the equivalent of 5th Ave.

In some ways, there was very little difference. They both basically sell used items and much of it is very nice but not in the quantities and quality you would find in an upscale market. One had more immigrants selling and more old records and lamps from the 60s while the other had more incomplete sets of crystal and several sets of nice old gloves. But basically they are both fun flea markets with potential goodies for our new flat, wherever that may be.

But today's did have one advantage, hot waffles. A family had pulled in their pop-up trailer and was selling hot waffles with jam or nutella and coffee. Shoppers were drawn by the steam rising from the fresh pastry and the smell. The owner smoked and chatted with a customer as she busied herself, unhurriedly, with cleaning the wafle-irons. Some picnic tables had been set up and several folks sat quietly with their hot waffles rolled into a cone and filled with jam.

From there I walked the very busy main shopping avenue back toward St. Hanshaugen where I had another apartment viewing lined up. Bogstadveien, the 5th Avenue of Oslo, was packed with people in boots and scarves carrying bags of new clothes and looking, mostly, fashionable or young or sometimes both. Several people were walking their dogs, mostly small ones (the dogs), but also a really cute black and silver Huskie father and son.

After a very nice visit with the young couple who own the apartment (they were the sort of well travelled, pretty, and highly educated young people that only exist in movies) I headed home for an impromptu dinner of fishcakes (hey, it's Norway) and remembered that I wanted to share this sign from outside the office. Cracks me up.

I also had another coup today, my first transaction where a clerk didn't imediately switch to English when I spoke. I ordered something like "to vårroll kylling" and he confirmed that I wanted 2 and told me the total and counted back my change all in Norwegian. I should mention that kylling (chicken) is incredibly difficult to pronounce because 'ky' has a bizare and uniquely Norwegian pronounciation. Imagine trying to make a 'k' noise while saying 'shh'. Not 'shkilling'. You have to do the 'sh' and the 'k' together. Anyway, I got my two piping hot chicken egg rolls.

Even better in the language aquisition department is our little miss H who had lined up all her coins and was counting them, correctly, in Spanish. She's never had a Spanish class and must have picked it up from Dora-the-incredibly-loud-and-annoying-Explorah. Either that or she's been watching telenovelas on Univision when we aren't watching. Having been praised for this she calls counting coins the "uno dos tres game".

mash-up and crypto-cuisine adventure

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When most people hear mash-up they think of something like the JayZ|Niles Barkley remix combining their songs, which, not that it matters, I rather prefer to either of the songs alone. But there is another, more established, form of the mash-up. In more classy establishments it might be called fusion.

Then there are those dishes, now famous, that seem to come from one country but were invented in another such as chop suey, which was invented in San Francisco. Crypto-cuisine being my neologism for such creations.

And so we come to my story of the Tikka Masala Calzone I had for dinner in the mall after buying a simple iron for the equivalent of the GDP of Peru. Tikka Masala having been invented in Glasgow in the 60s or 70s and not a strictly Indian dish and the Calzone, a staple of Italian American pizza shops.

A beautiful example of a crypto-cuisine mash-up in a handy portable and quite palatable form.

Speaking of Norwegian cuisine, my immigration consultant came by yesterday and was talking to me about all the things we need to do when she got on the subject of food. She said, "if there is one staple in the Norwegian diet, it's the frozen pizza." She said it is a matter of great national pride and you must never mock it.

I think we'll do OK here.

freedom's just another word

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Today is the first weekday since my leaving BearingPoint where I worked for over two and a half years. I am currently in the nether region between that job and my new one at Opera. I'm awaiting official word from UDI, the Norwegian immigration authority, that I will be allowed to work and reside in their country.

Currently I have been told that my credentials are all in order and approval imminent but we are unwilling to buy a plane ticket at this juncture since the actual formal approval is required for travel and I'm naturally risk averse.

We celebrated my fist of day of not working, as disctinct from unemployment, with grits and eggs and bacon for the ladies. S seems to respect my not eating red meat and facilitates alternatives for me but such a choice is clearly not for her. The moment I leave town or make other plans, she's making steaks or pork chops for her and the wee one. Little miss H is certainly being exposed to the varieties of gastronomic approach.

We were at a little party recently with a vocal omnivore with a preference for carnivoring, his on-again off-again vegetarian s.o. (that is, she's occasionally vegetarian not occasionally his s.o.), and a couple who prefer to be vegan but occasionally slide into vegetarianism. H, at 3, didn't really participate in the politics and ethics of food conversation but these are our friends, so she will be exposed to not just an international pallette of options but a variety of approaches.

And we continue to ready our house for sale and to scour the listings of apartments in .no. We are not taking a car with us. This means that we look at the meters to work or bus and to the local stores and try to imagine how far we can walk in the snow or rain and really, coming from Texas with it's car culture and lack of snow and rain, I suspect we're doing a poor job of estimating our tolerance for slogging several hundred meters in middle of a Norwegian winter. I'm sure it will add character.