against nature
Saturday, 21. October 2006, 18:53:47
The apartment hunt continues. Today, I went to visit an apartment in Grønland on the corner of Sverdrups and Kirkegård (Sverdrup was the captain of the famed arctic exploration ship the Fram and Kierkegaard was the father of modern existentialism, so connections to things we're interested in).I'd planned to spend a bit of time in the flea market but it was off today on account of rain, so I got to the apartment quite early and thought I'd walk around the neighborhood and see whether it seemed safe and what the shops and people are like. The apartment is at the northern edge of the most densely immigrant populated part of town. Middle Eastern, South Asian, African.
There's quite a lot of graffiti but a coworker who's lived in the area for many years says it's quite safe and she really likes living there. So perhaps the tagging isn't the sign of potential violence it is in the States, I need to look a bit further into this. What I didn't expect was to wander unexpectedly into the grounds of the Natural History and Botanical museums.
It's gorgeous, with rolling manicured lawns and stately buildings reminiscent of Ivy League colleges.
Well I couldn't very well miss seeing the allegedly controversial show on homosexuality in animals. It was a smaller exhibit than I'd expected, just one large room divided into smaller sections that flowed from one station to the next. There were no video installations, no voice overs, just taxidermied animals and banners with photos. Next to each was a short statement about the observed behavior and how prevalent it is in the species. These were also supplemented with examples of how the scholarship has changed in this area. My favorite example was a scientist who documented any contact between male and female giraffes including simply sniffing the other's backside as sexual in nature but documented full anal intercourse among males as ritualized combat "sparring".As I believe I mentioned in an earlier comment, the show was overtly political and included the following statement: "We may have opinions on a lot of things, but one thing is clear -- homosexuality is found throughout the animal kingdom; it is not against nature." This was also underlined by a wall of primates photos and a statement about the specific homosexual behavior among primates. Scattered at different heights among the pictures were several mirrors.
There wasn't much sign of controversy when I went. It was busy but not crowded and several families were there and the kids were mostly interested in touching the taxidermied animals both in this area and upstairs where they had polar bear and ox brought back from the Arctic on the Fram expedition. The images and animal poses weren't gratuitously graphic but didn't shy from their subject matter. While I was there a curator, I presume, was talking to a journalist in English about some of the specifics.
Overall it seemed well thought out and a bit like it was expecting controversery so had prepared for any challenge. I do wish there had been more video footage, the glass eyed animals and handfull of photos weren't as evocative as the brief text accompanying them, for example, flamingo same-sex couples being donated an egg to hatch and raise as their own.
As for the apartment, well, we'll have to see whether our first choice comes through and whether this one accepts dogs.
I just wanted to say that I really enjoy reading your blog. It is always interesting to see how other people enjoy your own country and I'm glad to see it seems like you're enjoying it so far. Hopefully, you'll still feel that way in winter when it's dark and depressing
Anyway, I just wanted to correct you a little bit. Kirkegårdsgata is not actually named after Kierkegaard. Kirkegård (literally 'church yard') actually means cemetery, so Kirkegårdsgate means 'cemetary street.' That shouldn't discourage you from taking that apartment though, Grønland is much safer than rumor (and sometimes appearances) would have it. Kierkegaard is the old Danish spelling of "kirkegård" so it's a fittingly depressing name for a fairly depressing philosopher.
By anonymous user, # 21. October 2006, 19:45:48
Oh, I forgot to mention that there are several Sverdrups in Norwegian history. I'm not sure which Sverdrup that street is named after. It might be Otto Sverdrup, the captain of Fram, but it could also be Johan Sverdrup, the father of parliamentarism in Norway. Either way, both of them were very interesting people.
By anonymous user, # 21. October 2006, 19:49:59
I am enjoying discovering the city and some of the surrounding area, although I haven't done too much of the latter as it will be fun to discover with my family once they arrive and because there's plenty to see/do right in town.
Please jump in with comments and suggestions for getting to know Oslo.
By balzac, # 22. October 2006, 12:24:55
a note on grafitti: it's not quite the sign of rampant crime here as it is in the US. I've caught young kids spraying graffitti in broad daylight...and believe me when I say they were NOT gang kids, just mischievous.
There's a lot more graffitti here, but it does not mean the same as it does STateside. Not as threatening, just annoying.
By anonymous user, # 23. October 2006, 08:11:50
--S
By fjordmonkey, # 23. October 2006, 16:53:41
hahaah.. flamingos couple ... yeah, they need to show videos of them applying for "Uh egg" adoption
By anonymous user, # 23. October 2006, 19:43:28