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Travel map

Red - I lived there. Blue - I was there. Green - I'll be there. View Larger Map

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Socotra, The island of Phoenix.

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I bet 99% of Socotra visitor's stories starts with something like “Only a month ago I didn't even knew that word, not to tell were in the world this place might be. But now I surely know that there exists a paradise on Earth, and I know its name”. Of course, one might name straight away tens of places, which can be referenced as 'paradise', but still there is something that makes Socotra special.

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Al-Mukalla

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The next day we were leaving to Al-Mukalla through the Wadi Dow'an valley (see the picture below), which is renowned for it's palm forests and rivers. Unfortunately, rivers were dry, so we had nothing left to do but practice our kalashnikov shooting skills. :raider:



By the evening we arrived to Mukalla, the first westernized Yemeni city we've encountered (though the most famous is surely Aden).

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Hadramowt

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As we had an early flight to Arriving to Hadramout (former province of Southern Yemen) we were to wake up really early. Something like 3 AM. Damn... I hate waking up early! Evening before I called Mohamed, the taxi driver I've met the other day, and asked if he will be able to pick us at that time. Fortunately, by that time I was fully accustomed into that “inshallah” (if the the God will) life attitude. The trick about Arab people is that they don't say “no”. So when Mohammed's phone appeared to be unavailable, that was not a surprise nor a problem.

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Sana' and surroundings

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The next night my friend arrived (again at 3 am) and we were to leave for a tour to Shibam / Kawkaban and Thula (and Manakha + Al Hajarrah next day) - the famous villages around Sana. In Shibam, a group of locals asked us to make a photo to send them later. I don’t know how Yemeni postal system works, but I hope they’ll be able to deliver a message knowing only a name of a man and a city %)


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Sana', Yemen. Back to the wonder.

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It was late night when I arrived to Sana. Not having any luggage (except carry on) is a sweet habit I try to follow, which among other benefits includes smiles of a great relief at the airport check-in counters and an extra fast “check-out” after landing. Usually this means that you would have a good chance of not being noticed by police, since they normally watch for the most of the people (which wait for their luggage). That was not the case this time: even though I was fast, I was approached by somebody, who with no apparent reason made me proceed to the tourist office where I was presented some free (but pretty useless) brochures. That was unusual. And that is when I realized that finally I was in another world. The world that I missed since I left Morocco last year.



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Yemen (technical details)

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Here is some technical background about my 2009 trip to Yemen. Since the country is relatively unvisited (though popular in Italy and Germany), this might be useful if you decide to get yourself a piece of this wonder.

Route



Moscow -> Sana'a -> Seyun -> Al Mukalla -> Socotra -> Sana'a -> Cairo -> Moscow

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Madrid. Barajas. Immigration police isolator.

If you happen to be a citizen of South American / African / Asian country or Russia, and if you travel to/via Spain, then you must have visa, invitation letter and some other stuff. Even if you just on a transit there (with connection in different terminals) on your way home. If you don't have complete set of required papers, then welcome to the immigration police isolator in the airport of Madrid (Barajas).

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Morocco. Marrakech, Essaouira, Agadir.

If you've ever seen a Disney's "Alladin" cartoon (or happen to read some of "1000 and 1 nights" stories), then you have an idea of what life in Marrakech's medina (center of the city surrounded by walls) is. It's a truely unique experience to find yourself in a place where there is a life and movement since 7 am till 3 am each day a week. A place where you can find snake charmers, storytellers, boxers, sellers, musicians and magicians.

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Lisboa. Cascaias.

Lisboa is a big city with lots of narrow streets, great views, as well as big shops, train stations, metro, trams and buses. We've arrived at the Oriente train station at night, and (oh my!) there actually were people.

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November 2009
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