Wednesday, 12. November 2008, 21:39:54
If you've ever seen a Disney's "Alladin" cartoon (or happen to read some of "1000 and 1 nights" stories), then you have an idea of what life in Marrakech's medina (center of the city surrounded by walls) is. It's a truely unique experience to find yourself in a place where there is a life and movement since 7 am till 3 am each day a week. A place where you can find snake charmers, storytellers, boxers, sellers, musicians and magicians.
Upon arrival to airport of Marrakech and filling an immigration form (which you would need to fill each time you stay in hotel or leave a country

), we had no idea of what will be outside. And what we've seen was really breathtaking - people sneaking and riding on bikes all over the medina's squares and narrow curvy streets. The life in that place is so much vivid and different from what you probably have seen. And that isn't a tourist's attraction - it's a real life. Totally crazy and charming. So charming that I even forgot that in this country people speak arabic and french; not english

I mean my knowledge of french was on the same level as knowledge of english of locals (which is on average no more than 20-50 words, including numbers) so it was rather fun to ask somebody about directions, listen to the answer without understanding anything, stupidly smile and say "oui" when he finally asks you "vous compris?"

I haven't mentioned, but it's obvious - the only place you should stay to get a taste of the place - is in one of hundreds riads (guesthouses) within medina. They often offer you a room with private bathroom and breakfast. However it looks like there is a tradition not to place a door between the water closet and bedroom, so be aware

Of course no trip to Marrakech is complete without loosing yourself in the labyrinth of medina after midnight

It's actually pretty exciting to wander in circles and observe the life of locals. One of the most weird things is that barber's shops are seem to operate 24 hours a day. And they actually have many clients after midnight! What else people do? Different things. Socialize on the streets, paint the buildings, walk just like you

. In case you'll need some help - there is a good chance that you'll find somebody who can sincerely do this without asking for money in the end

As one local that I've met later told me - a half of Moroccans are actually very good people.

The next part of our journey was Essaouira. Upon arrival there you'll be immediately offered a room to stay in medina, which is very nice and cheap. The medina itself probably not as crazy as in Marrakech, but the city's got an ocean (and other stuff for which it is loved by hippie people)! Even though the ocean is mostly windy and stormy, still it is beautiful.

In the morning we've moved to Agadir and were surprised to see the local people excitingly watching mud streams after the rain. Later we've learned that such heavy rains are actually rare there. It was shower rain and only +13 in Agadir

We've found a great hotel (which turned out to be cheaper than ryad in Marrakech - 450 Dh for double + breakfast). But if you'd like to spend a few days in complete relaxation on a lonely beach, you can easily find a really cheap room for rent in one of many fishermen's villages north to Agadir. Be watchful for your belongings though in this case. For the next days the weather was prettier and sunny, so we enjoyed our stay there driving to different beaches and villages around.

The interesting thing about Morocco's youth is that there are lots of people doing nothing at daytime. Just staying by the walls, playing football or doing tricks on the beach. As I later learned, some of them have both morning and evening classes at school, so in the middle of the day they do whatever they want. As of people in general, they are different. Some consider you solely as a cashcow, and even after spending quite some time with you, showing you a passport and being absolutely drunk would try in purely arabic manner to steal some stuff from your bag once you'll agree to drop them to the city

Others would make a company for you, show you nice places to hang around and make your day.

The restaurants in Morocco are nice, cheap and the waiters are super friendly.
Driving a car without a license / after a beer / crossing the solid line is ok, though exceeding speed limit by 15 km/h can cost you $50. Unless someone in your car have relations with police

In the mountains, trucks in front of you would normally signal you with blinkers (left - don't pass; right - it's safe to pass). Also, just like in Russia, you would be notified by the headlights if there is a police ahead. We had a lot of time to practice all this during our 3 hrs ride from Agadir to Marrakech

Though society is liberal, still it's arabic. Your status is often measured by the number of watches / cars / land you have, how many "right" people you know. And that is the first thing that some people you meet try to demonstrate you. Nevertheless, most of people are friendly to you, even if you're not just another idiot with money. So if you're into this game, you'll love it. I believe that is one of the countries that I'd be happy to return to one day.
chanmok # 23. November 2008, 16:15
Max # 24. November 2008, 19:57
As for bribery - it's a universal problem. Surely there is a degree of corruption, but local police is very loyal to the tourists (while much less loyal to the locals). I believe it is one of the safest place for the tourists actually. Unlike, say, in Russia, I don't think that any official in Maroc will openly demand money from you.
As for visas, they are not much needed actually (and this surely makes life easier
P.S. as far as I know, french police can issue a real passport for a modest "price" of 8000 euros