Sailing around the world

So since leaving Indonesia what has happened to Mind the Gap. Well quite a lot really. Dodging ships in the Malacca Strait, sailing along the Singapore coast with its impressive coastal skyline. Past Raffles and under a bridge that we thought may take our VHF aerial off the mast but made it Ok with some space to spare. We were headed for Danga Bay marina in Johor Bahru The depth instrument started playing up so decided to enter the marina in the morning rather than risk running aground that the evening.

We were pleasantly surprised to see at least one boat that we knew Malaika (Chris & Lyn S/Africans).

We also met a bunch of new people, including the Danks family (John, Jenny, Justine, Jessica and Jonathan) on a cat called Blue Moon also from SA and in the berth opposite ours. We spent so much time with them that after reading their account of the last few weeks thought that we did not have to write anything as they have covered it all. We will just provide a link to their site… http://www.bluemooners.com/apps/blog/entries/show/10845117-johor-to-langkawi-to-see-the-end-of-a-great-year-2011

Decided it was a bit too cheeky so wrote our account of events.



Arriving shortly after us was the Stransky family on their cat Fantasia which had just won line honours in the Darwin to Ambon race by 6 hours. In conditions that suite they sail at consistent and sustained speeds of well into the 20's.I was invited to sail some of the inshore races with them in the Raja Muda series. We watched the ups and downs of the Rugby World Cup in air conditioned comfort. We also got on with numerous boat projects. Tools, paint and stuff all over. It was like living in a tool shed.


I made some horizontal blinds (louvers) for our front windows. They took ages to shape and put together and paint. We painted them white after their first waterproof coats. Each side has to dry before we can flip it over for the other side. Two windows and a couple of coats each in between the rain and it all takes ages. This project was also interrupted when we were both struck down with Dengue fever, onset is sudden and severe (just as the book says) - splitting headaches, aching bones and a fever, you have no appetite and do not even want to drink anything. We suffered for 4 days quite badly but we took some controversial medication (I will not go into that here) that helped and started a quick recovery from day 4 onwards. Getting the materials i.e. the plywood, 2 sheets, 8X4 and crossing a 3 lane motor way on foot with these plus a bicycle is another story - we do things a little differently here.



Some woodwork was sanded and waits for the varnishing to happen. And all these projects set up enough dust on the seat cushions that needed washing before we set off. So much for relaxing at a marina! Lorna was hoping to get some sewing done while we had the extra power but no time for that.


Most of our boat projects were completed and we had been up the swamp for long enough. It was so convenient being at a marina with shore power and unlimited water. Not that there was a water shortage, we had rain every day and usually loads of it. Not the best water though and definitely not for drinking. Whether it is acid rain or full of pollution from the city or airports who knows but it left black deposits on everything unless it was washed off right away. Almost every day we had a thunder storm or one was threatened to occur.

Took the bus across to Singapore for the day before we set off on our journey to Thailand. We were so close to Singapore from the marina in Danga Bay, Johor Bahru. It was a real easy trip - there is a land bridge of about a mile just a few miles away from where we were. Just hop on a bus, hop off, walk through customs and immigration and hop on another bus across the border and Wha La. Used a day metro travel card to get around the city. Their underground trains were quick, punctual and efficient. Singapore is like a visit to Disneyland. Everything is spotless. Fines for everything from having chewing gum, to littering or even jay walking. Saw their botanic garden as well as the city architecture up close. Visited the famous Raffles hotel but did not stay there. It is way out of range of most cruisers budgets. Site seeing and shopping was the order of the day. We left the boat at sun rise and got back long after sunset - another busy day.

Malacca Strait

It was great being at a marina, the ease of shopping and ready access to water a particular luxury for us but it was time to be off. Two other cats, Blue Moon and Plane Sailing left the same time as us and we sort of cruised together to Langkawi. We had to stop to scrape some barnacles off our boat when the water became clearer. The water was too murky where we were at the marina to do this before we left. Others who were wiser fastened plastic bags around their props to keep the barnacles off when they arrived.

We did mostly day sailing as there were too many hazards with fishing stakes and other obstacles that could not be detected at night. Significant stops were near the city of Malacca where one night we encountered a severe thunder/lightning storm accompanied by almost 40 knots of wind, fortunately it did not last long and no damage was done. Plane Sailing had a narrow escape from the rocks when their anchor started dragging. It was their good fortune that they were warned by Blue Moon and a potential disaster was averted.

At Pinang I sailed the in shore events on Fantasia. Conditions did not really suite them but they still turned in a good performance but were beaten by a super light small cat called Sidewinder.

At Langkawi we were hoping to see Fantasia sail over the finish with that sought after line honours win. We were sure they would as the wind was up and over 20 knots in strength. We scanned the horizon just before sunset then gave up and went on to the anchorage. Apparently we just missed them, it was still light as they powered over the finish line in excess of 20 knots, hotly pursued by the tri Miss Saigon 3 minutes later.

I again sailed with them during the inshore races in Langkawi and although we did well a few mistakes cost us a chance of doing better. They did however end up with a great haul of silverware at the prize giving. They then went on to sail in the King's Cup in Thailand. We arranged to meet them there and take some of their excess stuff on our boat so that their boat could be as light as possible for the racing.

We hired a motor bike and went island sight seeing here in Langkawi. There are some beautiful anchorages here but we will have to explore another time. We left to check out at Talaga about 20 miles or so from where we were based in Kuah - Langkawi. On the way the starboard engine stopped and I saw that the fan belt was badly worn. I replaced it, Restarted the engine but the alternator was damaged, also it sounded like I had a blown head gasket. We made it to Talaga but had to head back to Kuah for spares and engine fix. Bought a new alternator but it has no tacho fitting, so no rev counter on one engine it is not a disaster. The head gasket turned out to be a damaged fuel injector gasket and seat. Three days of toil, skinned knuckles and cursing finally got the fuel injector out, it seemed to be welded into the cylinder head. Had to make up a tool that resembled a valve grinder to resurface the seat of the fuel injector in the cylinder head. All ok now but we did miss the Kings Cup.

Thailand



We have seem some sights in Thailand already

The Emerald Cove

80 meters of total darkness through a cave in our dingy from a sea entrance leads to the most enchanting and secluded beach in the middle of the island.


This is the approach and only access is from the sea.


looking towards the inside

About 40 miles further on we anchored off the beach were the 1999 cult movie "The Beach" was shot. Another amazing place.


We are now at Ao Chalong, a few miles from Phuket taking it easy before heading off to James Bond island and the Similans for Christmas. Anybody want to join us then for cruising around Thailand or racing in the Langkawi Regatta - see http://www.langkawiregatta.com/Entry/yachts-for-charter-listing.html

Our youngest son Brian married his longstanding girlfriend Rachael in England. The wedding rings were flown out by owl and delivered to the best man's hand. That flight was not as long as ours though from Bali where we left the boat for 2 months on a swing mooring at Sarangan, near Benoa harbour. After having spent a month in England we flew on to SA where we spent time with family and friends. A happy reunion after about 4 years.

When we got back to the boat we were keen to leave the mooring asap as the water was not particularly clean but we were not ready for the lack of maneuverability once we cast off the mooring lines. The boat would not respond to engines or rudder, the revs would not go above 1500 rpm. Fortunately we had set a little bit of main before we got underway and that helped us steer to a spot were we could drop anchor and scrape most of the barnacles off the props, rudders and hulls. Since then we have scraped hundred/thousands of barnacles off our hulls, they were really thick in places. We are now on the North side of Bali at Lovina beach and stocked up for our journey northwards towards Thailand. We will check the weather and possibly be under way in the next few days.

Finally made it. Sailed around Cape York today 27 May, the northern most tip of Australia.. The journey has not been without incident...

Decided that we had waited long enough for our new spinnaker to arrive from Cape Town. So left Southport – but not before watching the Royal wedding on a fellow cruiser’s boat. Yes, the one with the telly. We sailed via the inland waterway route and stopped first in the Broadwater channel to wait for the correct tide. Part of the route is very shallow and with high tide it is not a problem for us. Next night we were at Tangalooma a beautiful spot in Moreton bay, 15 miles opposite the river entrances to Brisbane but up anchored and headed for the other side of Moreton bay at midnight as the wind had swung south west and made our anchorage uncomfortable to say the least. Here near the Scarborough marina entrance we could at last have a restful night. Then on to Mooloolaba where we had arranged to pick up our sail, but alas, still not arrived and when it did it took nearly a week to clear customs and quarantine! The sail however is quite stunning - all black and mean but not so good using at night. We left Mooloolaba the next morning.


Stopped at Pearl bay, then the Whitsundays for a quick grocery pit stop and go. It turned out to be 4 days! We left Whitsundays in a blow 30 knots and strong wind warnings. As I went up front to organize sheets for running under the jib I noticed the forestay toggle, the stainless steel fitting supporting the front of the mast had broken right through on the one shoulder. Yikes! Fastened the spinnaker and spare jib halyards around the forebeam, lowered the boom onto the coach roof and headed back ever so gently to get a new fitting. 2 days later – all fixed although I could not get the same part, I managed to get hold of a heavier one. Lorna and I managed almost all the work ourselves. Rob from Stamper, did lend a very welcome hand though..



Left again in strong winds with it reaching its peak off the Gloucester island head – 47 knots, fortunately it was brief. Arrived at Mourilyan late on the 2nd day and stopped overnight for a break. Next stop was Cairns where I sourced 2 stainless steel bolts as I could only get galvanized ones in Airlie beach.

Then onto Port Bedford for an overnight stop.

Next was Lizard Island the Mecca of the cruises here in Aus. Many of them make this the limit of their pilgrimage northwards. Beautiful island and compares with some of best in the Caribbean, pity the weather does not always play along with its many days of rain, overcast and blowing.


Time for the buoys

Then a long sail to Seisia on the western side of the York peninsula, before getting there we decided on a stop at Escape river as we were looking forward to seeing the rounding of the Cape York by daylight and experience the magical 6 knot current from behind through the Albany passage. Alas, this was not to be. What a disappointment. It all went wrong at the mouth of the escape river. We did not escape unscathed.

We were really tired and decided this would be a handy night stop as recommended in our cruising guide book. It was blowing 30 knots or so with big roaring seas, communication was by shouting and we were both tense. We looked forward to starting refreshed the next day. We arrived at 22:30, a dark night, no moon yet and we relied totally on our electronic charts to find a comfortable anchorage.

Next minute, we hit something. What was that? It was like a clattering into skittles. Then the port engine cut and the boat stopped dead in the middle of the river still much too deep for anchoring. Here we go again. We had sailed into a fleet of black plastic bowling balls, the mooring buoys of a pearl farming raft. No warning, no lights and these hard plastic floats were strung together with line at least 40 mil thick; being black we had no chance of seeing them. By torchlight we could see that there were at least 70 of these under our bridge deck and portside hull. We were hooked solid on the port side prop. We could not free ourselves at night – at least we did not have to bother with an anchor. But, try to sleep – we were in the middle of the river, 30 knots blowing in from the sea behind us, waves crashing into our transoms and these floats making one hell of a din bashing into the hull and underside of the bridge deck.


It was a long sleepless night. Gardening at the time sounded like a very attractive option. Next morning the we were on our own, no one to help so after all sorts of plans we set about freeing ourselves by trying to untangle the string of black pearls. To add to all this excitement, this is crocodile country, every year some people get taken by crocks. When I accidentally fell in overbalancing on the transom as I tried to free yet another float I really thought the end had come. After a desperate struggle I managed to get back on board with Lorna’s help but minus my shoes. They were of no consequence in comparison with me being a tasty treat for a croc. I was a bit shaken up but soldiered on bravely. Lorna afterwards thought this very funny and it reminded her of an animated cartoon where you would run on air on the spot before dropping into oblivion. I did not even get my shoes in the water, they were lying on top of the floats, we retrieved them with the boat hook, thankfully those were the only crocs we encountered.

We launched the dinghy and hack sawed through more lines. After hours of hard physical work we were finally ready to cut the last restraining line and we would be free. There were 2 further floats under the hull wound around our port prop that we could not get to. The water was still very rough and neither of us felt like a swim with the crocodiles. So we set off with these like a newly married couple dragging debris behind their car. We should have put up a sign, “Newly unattached, just freed”

Of all the Pearl farms of the world, we pick the one with no oysters and no pearls.

We managed to find more sheltered water along the route to cut the floats free but still have rope around a prop. Not sure how we will deal with it yet but we are not inclined to set off without a fully functioning boat.

Great news, I managed to get the last few tangles off the prop from the dinghy while we are safely anchored here off the aboriginal village of Seisia. In the morning 29th May 2011we are off to Darwin.

Left Sydney, now in Coffs Harbour. Lousy journey lumpy sea and little wind despite the heavy southerly weather forecasts. Trying to sort out some damage.. Mast baton holders, torn main when caught in 2nd reef block, jib head ripped open, spinaker finally beyond repair. Lazy bag support line broke. Radar reflector hanging on by last cable tie, strap broke for 2nd main reefing line, jib track buffers stops disintegrating, trampoline full of holes, spare jib halyard block attachment to mast broke.

Seems as we should not have set off to sea on a Friday. Sailed into Coffs at midnight under storm jib. First time ever used and in conditions ranging from 22 to 5 knots. It is just that we had run out of sails. Damage all due to the lumpy sea that flogged the hell out of the sails and the sun and Sydney air perishing everything. That well teach us to laze away our time in Sydney.

Fireworks Heralds New Year 2011

The Sydney Harbour fireworks are hyped to be the best in the world. Well we have not seen all the fireworks of the world but it has certainly been the best we have ever seen. I am not even going to try to describe it here but the setting in the harbour area with the Opera House and the bridge as backdrop makes it superb.

It was also one of the most crowded anchorages we have ever experienced. We arrived early, like 2 days early, to get a good spot. Big mistake, there were other people that better spots, they had a much better strategy. Arrive with not too much time to go – almost dusk on the day. Then drop your anchor in a gap between some boats as the wind changes a bit and the boats swing away from each other. Ignore the owners of neighbouring boats jealously protecting their space like guard dogs running up a down the fence of their owners properties. You are too close – woof, woof, growl, bark and ruffled hair. Ok, we are used to you now. But, can you believe it, another boat squeezes in! Same process again. Drop anchor on top of others but do not let out as much chain. Others drop their anchors to port or starboard, or near transoms with just enough chain to allow the anchor to touch the bottom. These Aussies are smart. We were surrounded by boats tiny and large but the good news is that the only bang we experienced was from the fireworks lighting up the night sky. Suffice to say that these boaters that squeeze into the tiniest gaps have not had our experiences with dragging anchors. Fortunately the conditions on the evening were benign with little wind and negligible wave action.

Another one of life’s must do’s is crossed off the list.

Safely anchored in Farm Cove for the night

Cricket England vs. Australia (2010/11) Ashes Test Series

We have been relaxing and enjoyed listening to England getting the better of the Aussies, winning the Boxing Day test match almost on the first day. The Barmy Army were on song, really rubbing it in, singing “God save YOUR gracious Queen, long live YOUR gracious Queen….. (Reminding the Aussies that they still have an allegiance to the monarchy even though there are Aussies that wish to break the ties). The Brits have now retained the Ashes despite another test match to be played to complete the scheduled series. The Brits now understand what it feels like to be Aussies – the Aussies having won so often and the Aussies, what it feels like to be Brits – having lost so often. What a wonderful game this is that promotes a better understanding between the nations.

Sydney to Hobart 2010

So, the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race 2010 ended in disappointment for us but the favourite won. Wild Oates XI securing yet another and I might add, well deserved line honours win. Congratulations to them we know it was a tough sail and they had to cope with more than just the conditions as they successfully defended their position in a protest brought against them by the race committee. It concerned safety issues and a misunderstanding as to whether their SSB radio was functioning when they entered the Bass Straight.

YuuZoo owned and skippered by my friend Ludde Ingvall had 2 crew men washed overboard. They were successfully retrieved after having their unauthorised 10 minute swim. Problems did not end there, a ripped head sail and a boat that at one stage was in danger of sinking forced their retirement, turning back from the Bass Straight to the shelter of Eden, the last safe stop on mainland Australia (heading south). Their position in the fleet ranged from somewhere in the top five to the top ten. They live to fight another day.

The top 8 positions over the line were:

1. Wild Oats XI
2. Investec Loyal
3. Lahana
4. Ichi Ban
5. Wild Thing
6. Ran
7. Limit
8. Loki

The full results follow....

Read more...

I met up with Ludde Ingvall Saturday morning. I last saw him about 25 years ago. Back then we were racing dinghies and he was a poor young student sailing one of the University of Cape Town Yacht Club's fireballs.

He rapidly went on to bigger and better things becoming the Project Manager for one of the leading competitor’s Whitbread around the world campaigns. He has since acquired the immortality status normally associated with that of rock stars being a double line honours winner of the Sydney to Hobart Yacht Race in his own boat then called Nicorette.

I snatched a few minutes of his time between TV and media interviews and we made an arrangement to get together when the race pressure and various commitments were over.

There is an atmosphere of excitement here in Sydney as the build up for the 2010 Race continues. The centre of the activity is all based around the Cruising Yacht Club of Australia. The media centre and most of the competitors boats are berthed here in Rushcutters Bay. The race starts on Boxing Day.

The race is so prestigious and covered all around the world. Everybody I spoke to seemed to know and like Ludde. He is so well known, having won this race twice.

I was uncertain how to respond to the young receptionist at the club that hosts the race after I asked her “Is Ludde Ingvall about”, and she replied with: “I am not sure, does he work here”?

We will be rooting for Ludde and his 90' modified maxi "YuuZoo" for another win. There are about 7 yachts in with a chance for a line honours win, "Wild Oats" being the favourite and the form boat. Some boats are hoping for weather conditions that favour them better than others to stand the best chance of a win. Needless to say, we still love being here in Sydney especially at this time of year.

Moo, Moo who, no not - Moohoo Mooloo, ok Mooloo who, Mooloolaba - that’s where we aah!

Arrived Mooloolaba last night just after sunset. Not ideal but we managed and are safely in “The Pond”.

We are not having much luck with the northerlies and are taking whatever is best. Spent a week at Cid harbour through strong SE winds and rain before making the break and getting as far as Great Keppel Island where we spent another week through the strong SE winds and rain.

A half night at Cape Capricorn an almost stop at Pancake Creek and then a daytime pause at Bundaberg after both engines failed! A bit of hairy scary drama to add to the spice of life. Contaminated fuel. A few filter changes and a few more still to come no doubt. The rally yachts were just starting to arrive in Bundaberg and we were torn as to whether we keep moving or stop and join the party.

We kept going with a night sail to Platypus Bay on one easy tack and a beautiful day there (and there are still lots of whales around) and a brief downwind sail to Mooan Point with the new improved re-stitched spinnaker. We have now combined two old threadbare spinnakers, one asymmetrical and one symmetrical so lots of pleats and tucks, extra fabric and colour changes. Looks more like a bad attempt at a patchwork quilt than a sail and it is a fair bit heavier - but it sets. This major spinnaker work was started in Horseshoe bay Magnetic Island, off Townsville.

Stopped for lunch at Garry’s anchorage following another cat up the south entrance and we had enough depth there as long as we followed the markers or someone else. We saw the beautiful Kite (bird) feathered variety here. Then a night at Pelican point. Skipped Tin Can Bay and dolphin feeding but that goes on the "To Do" list for when we head north next year.

We exited Wide Bay Bar at sunrise at dead low water! The exit is recommended at slack tide, high water. We had some new waypoints from locals and the sea was relatively calm but the wave action through the passage was still turbulent and bouncy We dread to think what it is like when it is rough. We have several bars to cross, Wide bay, Mooloolaba, Southport etc. Getting the bar wrong can be catastrophic.

We can give you some idea. The pictures tell the story.


Looks like we have a chance of a hint of north to the wind tomorrow so we will be off to Brisbane and we will add Mooloolaba to the list.

We have post under construction that may or may not be published it includes our trip to Cairns to get our visas done and the trip back south to where we are now.

A ripping crash, followed by a desperate yell – “JAMES – SOMETHING BROKE, THE MAINS GONE”! What the hell was that!.........

Arrived in Aus safely but there is more to tell than just that, stuff always happens along the way….

I was aware something was wrong as I tried to become fully awake. It was Lorna’s watch and she had persuaded me to take an extra half hour break as I had done most of the work the past 15 hours. It is after midnight, there is no moon, the silver sliver that existed had long since set. The otherwise beautiful starry night sky is covered with cloud and the wind has just started blowing about 20 knots on the beam. We had only just started making way directly to our destination for the first time in 20 hours and at good speed too. We still had over 400 miles to go to Australia.

The sea state can best be described as seriously f****d up. The wind over the last 24 hours had gradually swung a hundred and eighty degrees. At one point it was coming at us from the west - directly from where we headed. We had been struggling the whole day, sometimes in rain, to make a decent course and tacked on shifts when appropriate. Every so often we would pick up a great wind shift and think, yes, this is it we are on our way, then a few minutes later be pushed way south or north. We mostly headed south as Southerlies, and then South Easterlies were predicted on the grib files that we downloaded in New Caledonia before we left.

The boat was lurching bucking in the wave action as I made my way to the cockpit and then on deck to find out what was going on. I could see only half the main but could later make out that the upper half had fallen down behind the lazy jacks. The first job would be to get the main down, then assess the damage and what could be done about it. Gone was any hope of doing this trip in great time. I was hoping for 4 days and the way we were going initially during the first day or so, 3 days would not be out of the question. We were doing up to 12 knots at times with just the main and jib.

The main halyard at the jammer cleat end was slack so that was not holding the main up at all. We released the lazy jack lines and lowered most of the sail as it was tangled up in those. This still left part of the main jammed against the mast with the battens forced against the mast cars. After pulling down really hard on the luff of the main sail we managed to get all but the final 2 meters above the boom, dealt with. By standing on the boom I unbolted the batten from the mast car and attached the topping lift to part of the sail resting on the jammed mast car. We freed the jammed car with a few taps of a hammer, then managed to stow the whole sail and secure it with the boom to the coach roof.

We could then start looking at what happened and how to fix it if possible. I initially thought the halyard had broken or the head had torn out of the main but seeing it when we got the sail stowed it was all in tact including a shackle through the ring on the headboard. Lorna then found a piece of stainless steel bar lying on the trampoline. It was the shackle that joins the main shackle to the main halyard block. It had been bent completely open. The pin had broken and part of it was still stuck in the thread.
What a relief, it should be a real simple repair, replace the shackle and we are underway again.

Trouble is, we have a main down here and a main halyard up there, 60’ above our heads. We look up and shine the 1000 candle power torch up at the top of the mast. Lorna says, “Don’t even think about it, no way, I am not winching you up there”. I had no intention of tackling it then as I can see that I would never be able to cling to the mast even halfway up as it gyrated, pitched and whiplashed sharply through the air. We continue the rest of the night under jib, bumping our way at approx 3 knots in the general direction of Australia. It is a big continent and not too hard to miss from where we are.

I could not wait for the morning to arrive so that we could see clearly how to deal with our latest crisis and see if there was any other damage that we had not anticipated. We could not be sure that the halyard block was at the top of the mast and in one piece. I would have to be winched up on the topping lift, a much harder job for Lorna as the winch is much smaller and does not have the leverage of the main halyard winch. It is also single purchase halyard which makes the going even harder.

As dawn broke it still looked pretty horrible out there. The sea was bleak, grey and rough with plenty of white on the wave tops. I plucked up a bit of courage, put on a brave face and would not show Lorna that this was anything but a routine job. I just hoped she could not see my knees trembling. The last time I remember doing anything like this was early on in our cruising in the Southern Ocean when I went to rescue our only means communication – the VHF aerial. So we should be old hands at this. We had a cup of coffee while I explained what I was going to do. I told her I would not attempt this if I though that it was remotely dangerous. Lorna was not happy and was content to carry on without the main. We have heard horror stories how people have got tangled up in the rigging while doing this type of job, so I was really cautious.

We furled the jib, stopped sailing to windward and let the boat just drift side ways on the swells. We watched the boat action for a while; the violence lessened substantially but was still not acceptable. We then started the engines and set them to idle and headed the boat downwind, we were now suddenly doing 6 knots heading north but with the wave action mostly behind us. This in my opinion was good enough for a quick trip up the mast snatch the halyard block at the top then be lowered down and the job is done.

Lorna would have none of it but after I hooked up the bosuns chair and started climbing the mast myself she decided to help mumbling discouragement and what a bad idea this was. I was climbing to help Lorna on the winch and clinging on as best I could. I took breaks when arriving at each of the 3 spreaders. It is amazing how calm the sea looks but does not feel once you are near the top of the mast. My arms were already lame when I got to the top and then had to let one hand go from clinging to the mast to retrieve the stuck block and halyard. Waiting for the boat to steady in a more stable patch of sea I lunged for the block. I managed to work a bit of halyard loose, when I had enough slack, jammed it in my teeth. I continued working it that way until I had about 2 meters of slack before I got Lorna to start lowering me.

The trip down was better and faster than the trip up and I was happy to be back on the deck in an unsplattered format.

Soon we were underway once more and making great time to Bundaberg. We had to slow the boat down as we would arrive over the weekend and incur the extortionately exorbitant rates for the quarantine fees charged. We timed our arrival after dark on Sunday as we knew the quarantine officers would have better things to do than try to get a few extra bucks out of us.

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Monday 19th July

Arrived Bundaberg, Australia. Safe and sound.

We spent yesterday idling across Hervey Bay wondering where the Land of Oz was. It is all so flat that form any distance there is nothing to see. We tried to time our arrival after the weekends’ double time charge. A whopping $330 normal week day rate for the privilege of letting Quarantine take away our food stores is expensive enough. At least they were friendly. Arriving after business hours this becomes $660!

A standard blue water, rhumb line trip is 780 miles. We had planned to leave the beautiful Ilot Maitre mooring at first light on Tuesday but by early evening the chop and swell was making the anchorage a bit too bumpy and next minute it was “let’s go now”. Made it through the Pass just after dark and from then on we had a reasonable angle to the wind with nothing in the way.

Chomped through the miles for the first day and a half. For a time it looked like the very light wind day we were expecting was not going to materialize. Up to that stage with our good speed and progress we were on schedule to arrive just before the overtime hours.

Spent the daylight hours in the calm without too much flopping and then picked up a good breeze early through the night. Chugging along nicely around midnight when “bang” the main sail collapses halfway down. We can’t see what has broken and the sea is too lumpy to do anything but wait till morning so have a long night with good wind but only the jib to drive us.

James insists on going to the top to retrieve the block stuck up the mast. One madman aboard is bad enough. We have two. I don’t like to but I winch him up there. We have enough rice aboard to see us to Aus if we have to take weeks under jib alone. James turns the boat downwind and running with the waves and under engines reduces the wobble and not much later with James safely down we are sailing properly again. I don’t think he likes rice that much.

Have a huge pod of spinner dolphins join us for one sunset and see a humpback whale not too far away. James also sees a big shark. We must be nearing Aus with the creatures that bite and sting.

We have arrived safely in New Caledonia after a rough trip that saw some gusts over 40 knots and very little down wind work. We would be fast for 12 hours but then painfully slow for the next 12. Overall the trip was slow – 6 days, with the weather mostly light but interspersed with stormy conditions, usually at night. Fortunately we did not break anything due to weather but the Radar sometimes stops working, the fridge is still a problem despite spending a fortune on it in NZ. A spinnaker is blown again, some lines badly chaffed and the house batteries are dying.

As you can tell, life is completely normal aboard Mind the Gap.

A brief catch up from the last 6 months…………

NZ Season 2

Our six months in New Zealand has gone in a flash. Where did the time go this year? Last year we still managed a road trip down to South Island.

Once again we loved NZ. We cruised the north eastern shores from Opua in the Bay of Islands as far south as Whangamata on the Cormandel Peninsula. All in all not very far but we dropped anchor at so many beautiful bays for an overnight or longer stay. It feels like we have hardly scratched the surface of all the anchorages out there. Along that stretch of coast there is another sheltered anchorage every 35 miles or so which is easily reached in a days sail.

Opua, Pahia, Urapukapuka, Whangaruru where we promised ourselves a return visit that is now still on a “to do” list. Whangamumu, another promise to return here and Tutukaka where there was no radio signal so early morning we sailed out through the narrow passage between rocks only to find ourselves in thick fog with the radio warning of 40 knot winds in the next few hours and no sign of the safe anchorage we had just sailed out of.

Urquarts Bay near Bream Head and up river to Whangarei a town so convenient for yachties. Back down river and on to the beautiful Kawau Island that is still a favourite. Up the Maharangi River for a haul out at Robertson boat yard that turned out to be a “never go there again” experience. Polkingholmes Bay and Orewa Beach where a trip to the supermarket gave us soggy breadrolls when a wave swamped the shopping bags while we tried to get the dinghy back out through the building surf.

A brief stop at Tiritiri Matangi (Bird Island) then on to Auckland where James enjoyed watching the Louis Vuitton Challenge and the boat show while I visited Renee in Queenstown. The City of Sails’s many stops of Little shoal Bay and Watchman Island just up from the bridge, to way up river towards Herald island where the new motorway bridge was too low for our mast to clear and the convenient but sometimes bouncy Mechanics Bay. After an evening out we returned to the marina where we had left the dinghy to find the gates locked. Climbing over the fence to hang by our fingertips over the water while skirting around the side of the gate brought the security guard with a severe admonishment until he recognised us from last years fence climbing episode and he unlocked the gate for us.

A short hop from the city is Motuihe Island where we spent Christmas Day with the boat bedecked in Bouganvillea, and Waiheke Island with its many stunning bays was one of this years favourites and Rangitoto with a walk over the still raw and rough volcanic stones to the summit of Aucklands youngest volcano.

Happy Jack island, Port Charles, Mercury Island for a lively New Years Eve Party, Whitianga, and back north via Port Jackson and the many bays of Waiheke. In March after the haulout we sailed south again as far as Whangamata, for the annual beach hop. We had a ride in a Lincoln Continental (same as JKF was shot in) for the thunder run to Onemana. After the weekend beach hop Lloyd and James had a blast on the Blow Cart(land yacht), zooming up and down the beach on 2 wheels in the blustery conditions.

Leaving Whangamata, we stopped again at Mercury Island (a firm favourite) for another chance to collect the calcite, jasper, obsidian, jet and other beautiful stones from the beach.

North to Great Barrier island’s Whangaparapara Bay, Smokehouse Bay where we met someone that grew up in Cape Town, less than 1 mile from where I did. He even went to the same high school and was the one that caused havoc at my years final assembly by lobbing an egg! At Port Fitzroy we traded some beers for freshly harvested green lipped mussels.

Onwards past “Happy Dragon” (Taranga Island) and the Hen and Chicks with texts to and from Lynn who watched from a patio the tiny white speck out in the bay sailing past her “back yard” and turning in to Bream Head as the sun went down. Time was up and we were back in Opua for checking out.

Those were the memorable stops but however beautiful the Island or picturesque the bay they can’t compare with the wonderful Kiwi hosts. Our New Zealand friends both new and old have shown us the most generous hospitality. They have fetched us from the boat wherever we happened to be anchored and taken us back later with full tummies. We have had trips to their homes, trips out sightseeing and been carted here there and everywhere for shopping. We also had the use of those wonderful electric machines that do the washing! An outing to an unforgettable Christmas Carol Service at Auckland’s Vector arena that I recommend all Aucklanders put in their diaries now as an event not to be missed.

Most recently while waiting in Opua for the right weather we hitched into town during a rain break. Caught a lift on the back of a truck and were a little dismayed when the driver turned off the road. We thought it would have been better if he dropped us at the junction so we could walk the rest of the way. When he stopped at his house he said “there is my car use it to town and we’ll see you when you are done”. When we returned the car we were invited for tea and freshly made scones and a lift back to Opua was arranged in a car as it had started raining again.

It has been an unforgettable time. So good that we have the forms to apply for NZ residency! However after our sail away from NZ we think all sailors that brave the trip to NZ should automatically be granted residency.