Sailing around the world

We sailed with the current and made good time to Luganville. Not much of a town but managed to fill up with much needed dinghy fuel, after having begged and borrowed from cruisers heading back to Port Vila. Thanks, Ian, Edna and Anthony from “Squid” as well as Max from “Frasimada”. Top of the grocery list was eggs- (we got the last dozen), cheese (available only in 2 kilogram slabs) so did not get as we still have refrigeration problems, and butter (not available). We were not too impressed. What did impress was Million Dollar Point where the yanks dumped all sorts of goodies. Just dumped it into the sea rather than give it to the locals. Still the locals now make money from it as a popular dive site where all the treasures can be viewed.

We did not stay long in Luganville but headed to Oyster Island (Peterson Bay) and on the way saw the most divine bay and stopped about 7 miles short of our intended destination. Beautiful white sand and glimmering turquoise water. This proved a popular spot. We saw 2 other boats in this bay but it was not long when the whole of the rally fleet from Fiji and Tonga sailed into the bay making it about 30 boats in total. There was lots of room and we were happy to spend the evening with “Different Drummer” (Phil and Joy). Next day we headed for Oyster Island and during high tide, nervously picked our way through the narrow entrance through the reef.

This was an ideal spot, very sheltered (a hurricane hole), and internet (albeit intermittent) with a superb restaurant a few boat lengths from us. The big attraction here besides the anchorage itself was the blue holes and the coral reefs. We explored these and saw huge and colourful coral in the clear water beyond the reef on a snorkelling outing with Nancy and Burger.

We have sailed so many miles, over 33,000 now and anchored off stunning beaches. Yet after all this one of our favourite stops was the Chagras River in Colon. Such a change to be anchored in river water totally surrounded by dense vegetation with accompanying jungle sounds. It was unforgettable.

Here, on a much smaller scale and with the big boat safely at anchor we took the dinghy almost 2 miles up the river past mangroves and huge banyan trees. Dodging the remnants of old bridge buttresses where the water was forced through a narrow gap. It gave an adrenalin rush as we shot the rapids to get through against the fast flowing out going tide. The river in places was thick with patches of water cress and left only a narrow path. Slightly off track and the dinghy was behaving like a blending machine. We had to lift the motor and remove the vegetation before continuing.

Gradually the water became clearer and bluer until we reached the end. A clear blue pool of fresh water bubbling up from the spring 40’ below. A long rope hanging from an overhead branch was an added attraction. James was off like a monkey up the banyan tree roots and across the nearby branch to do his Tarzan act, swinging into the water below. I had to give it a go too. After a hesitant start nervously balancing on the branch I swung into the water, a damp squib after the anticipation.


Early next morning, catching the last of the incoming tide we were off to the other blue hole, about a mile away to the south corner of the bay. From the start this was different to the northern blue hole trip. The water was blue right from where it meets the ocean and incredibly clear all the way up to another blue, blue pool. All this fresh water could not be wasted and we went armed with buckets of washing. Having soaked it overnight we had the perfect spot for rinsing.



Drifting down with the out going flow we could appreciate all the jungle sounds and with glimpses of parrots and giant fruit bats known as “flying foxes”. They are as big as chickens and the locals catch them for their dinner. It was a memorable trip in the company of Sally and Geoff from the yacht “Grace”.

All the stops are special, for the locals we meet and also not least for the friendships we make with other cruisers from all over the world. Here we spent time with and enjoyed the company of “Grace” – Sally and Geoff, “Halekai” – Nancy and Burger, “Charisma” – Kristen and Alan, “Airwego” – Cindy and Mike, and “First Light 111” – Bernie, Diane and Claire.

It was time to head back to port Vila about 200 miles south against the prevailing winds. We had just received an email from Lloyd and Ngaire that they had booked flights to Port Vila and were joining us for a week or so.