I cannot believe it is the first of June already and we with that the start of hurricane season out here in the Caribbean. We will be out of here by Wednesday coming (8th June 2006) at the latest.
We have been flat out again since Brian and Rachael left on Sunday and are still waiting (can you believe it) on parts of a radar. This time entirebox waiting collection and a quick install only for us to discover no guts in the display unit!!! Back to waiting, in the hope that the correct parts arrives post haste. If not we sail without radar and will see what we can do further fitting along the way.
Hoping to stop briefly in Bermuda before picking up the trades to the Azores. Haven’t had a moment to study the route yet, but thanks to Charles and Fung Yee we have the whole caboodle on the computer. Have some paper charts too. Brian was amused with our large map of the Atlantic Ocean with not a lot to see on it, just a lot of sea.
The water maker is up and running, slow and steady with a lot of noise but outputting good water. Battery monitor installed, new ropes threaded and tied up to the necessaries, windows resealed , and cupboards getting stocked up. Oh, and a radar bracket fitted up the mast after a lot of huffing and puffing winching James part way up every half hour for a couple of days. Time to go and sort out fridge gas, laundry, bits of wire and connectors for oojigoogies and stuff.
Having had such a wonderful two weeks holiday with James and Lorna in the West Indies on their 47ft catamaran “Mind the Gap”, we’d like to share it with you and hope you’ll enjoy reading all about it.
James and Lorna bought ‘Mind the Gap’ in December last year and have worked extremely hard getting it ready to sail. There are still jobs to do, like install a water maker and a radar - both required for their trip across the Atlantic later in the summer.
However, it was now time for them to enjoy the “fruits of their labour” and have some well deserved rest time themselves. There had been big celebrations when Charles (their eldest son) had visited two weeks prior and got married to Fung Yee on the boat (congratulations to them both), then it was our turn and, following us, Brian (J&L’s youngest) and Rachel flew to St Martin for their visit.
We flew into Antigua on Saturday, arriving early afternoon, and took a taxi to English Harbour on the South East coast where we had agreed to meet. The taxi drivers are very accommodating and are quite happy to give you a ‘guided tour’ whilst driving along. J&L were on the road waiting for us and had to jump out in front of the taxi to stop it (and hope that we were inside!). They both looked so well – slim and tanned. They were anchored in Falmouth Harbour and it was then I had my first set back - the dinghy! The world and his wife knew that I was quite anxious about our holiday as I don’t particularly like water / I can’t swim / I may be seasick! I innocently assumed the boat would be moored against concrete!!
Not to worry, we were ‘broken in’ very gently. Our first couple of days involved short sails to neighbouring harbours and we were able to get used to the heat – and getting in and out of the dinghy! On Sunday we happened to come across a dozen dolphins that surrounded the dinghy. Although clothed, Lorna was soon in the water swimming with them. In the evening we climbed 1.5 miles in sweltering heat and humidity to Shirley Heights – a look out point over English Harbour – where there was a steel band playing and a wonderful view of the sunset. We had rain on and off but it was very refreshing and rain water is good for washing clothes on the boat and cleaning the salt off the decks. We had one of our best meals that evening at the Calabash restaurant near English Harbour.
The following day, after Rob had bought a tee-shirt in Nelson’s Dockyard, we sailed to Carlisle Bay – one of our favourites – beautiful clear water, diving pelicans and turtles! We decided to stay for another day and then came my first “accident” – I fell out of the dinghy (Lorna said she hadn’t meant to push me overboard but I’m not so sure!). Of course it was the best thing that could have happened. I was then encouraged by James to put a life jacket on, don some flippers and a snorkel and I never looked back so to speak. Beautifully warm clear water, fish, coral, stingrays and especially the turtles.
The next day, Wednesday, we were up at 6.30, had a swim and a snorkel and set off for Jolly Harbour (past the dangerous Cafes reef) for provisions and to fill up with water. Then we sailed along the coast to Deep Bay. On Thursday morning we took the dinghy round to St Johns (the capital of Antigua). The locals assumed we were off the cruise ship and had loads of money, so we soon side-stepped them and looked around the town. Security is very good in the Caribbean – a taxi driver told us there are only 150 people in prison in Antigua, and capital punishment still exists there. Then in the afternoon back at Deep Bay we snorkeled by the wreck of the Andes (1905), watched a cruise liner pass a gap in the coastline, sailed up to Boon Reef and Dickinson Bay then back to Morris Bay for the evening.
On Friday morning we were up even earlier at 5.30 am to go to Guadeloupe but the winds were directly against us. We sailed towards Montserrat and saw dust clouds above the volcano and lava still flowing. Then a bucking bronco of a ride against the waves on a course parallel to Antigua. I decided that if I was going to be ill today was the day! I lay down and shut my eyes – works wonders – and within a couple of hours I was OK. James said that I hadn’t been seasick. When you’re really seasick you spend the first day thinking you’re going to die, but on the second you wish you had! We finally turned back with the wind behind us and moored back at Carlisle Bay in Antigua.
On Saturday morning the winds were more accommodating and after a 13 hour sail and 85 nautical miles we arrived at The Saints which is a set of small islands just south of the Basse-Terre part of Guadeloupe. The winds in the lee of Guadeloupe were fickle but we made progress with a couple of tacks. It was dark when we anchored in a lovely bay beside an illuminated cross on the hillside and the Hotel Bois Joli tucked away amongst the palm trees. The next day we had an excursion to Anse Saints, a little fishing village where Rob bought a tee-shirt. It was a Sunday and we heard singing from a little church, but outside the old locals were gathered with their cock-birds in cardboard boxes waiting for the service to finish so they could start cock-fighting. Not a pleasant thought.
Back on board we set off for the mainland which meant a sail north past the island of Marie Galante to starboard. Guadeloupe, or ‘Gwada’ as the locals call it, is shaped like a butterfly and we were headed for a bay on the right of the butterfly’s tail in the Terre-de-Haut part of the island. As was usual with James we found a yacht to race and, as with all the boats we followed, we overtook it. We moored in the lee of the Ilet de Gosier which is a little island a couple of hundred yards off the coast. We decided to eat ashore. Of course, as it was a Sunday, all the restaurants were shut but luckily a couple of gendarmes told us to try Les Quatre Epices. Rob had lobster which was quite messy.
The following morning we motored round to the capital, Point à Pitre to get more provisions. We wandered around the town and said how exactly French it was – it is part of France but how it mirrored French life surprised us. I had a contre-temps with an old woman in the market. I hadn’t tried her fruits when she wanted to give me some (probably because I couldn’t understand her garbled French). Rob bought another tee-shirt. James gave us a tour of the marina and was excited about showing us ‘Alidade,’ a Catana 581 catamaran (58 feet long but also 58 tonnes) which was owned by a friend of his. Catanas are built at Canet-en-Roussillon where our flat is in France. We were shown around it by Emmanuela, the cook and hostess. Gorgeous – the boat that is. That evening we motored back to Le Gosier and had a meal of marlin which we had bought from a fisherman at the quay.
Tuesday, we headed back to Antigua and had a great sail getting up to 11.9 knots. We decided to stop half way at the Jacques Cousteau Underwater Nature Reserve around Pigeon Island. We anchored beside a mega yacht (usually called a ‘stink pot’ because they can smell of diesel) called Lady Triumphant. We had read up about the diving and snorkeling there so we had a go. The views underwater were fantastic, the only problem was me trying to get back into the dinghy watched by several French divers. One wanted to help but embarrassment made me determined to do it on my own – well, with a little help!
On Wednesday we sailed past Deshaies at the top of Guadeloupe and had a good run across the 30 miles back to Antigua passing another shoal of dolphins on the way. We moored in Falmouth Bay – James was keen to get the official list of Antigua Race Week contestants because his friend JJ was racing. Rob bought an Antigua Race Week tee-shirt and we had Daiquiri cocktails and a meal in the ‘Café Havana’, an Internet café that J&L used. One of James’s sayings was ‘I’d rather be in a boat with a drink on the rocks than in the drink with a boat on the rocks’!
The next morning James was hoisted up the mast to check the mooring light before we set sail round the west coast and due north to Barbuda. This was my favourite “desert island”. Although a public island, there are no regular flights or ferries and the only hotel frowns on yachts visiting. So we felt very privileged to be there – with not another yacht or a single person in sight. We tendered to the shore and tied up to some drift wood and walked along the pink beach (caused by the remains of loads of pink coral). I was very brave and swam without the lifejacket.
At 4:45 on Friday morning Rob and I were on the deck watching the sun rise – and what we think must have been a couple of planets with the sunlight reflecting off them. After breakfast of Lorna’s famous eggy-bread we set off back to Jolly Harbour (we needed a supermarket and some wine) then anchored next door in Five Island Bay and had a swim near a deserted sea-side development before dinner.
Saturday – our last day. We signed Lorna’s visitor’s embroidery which is something else to keep her busy. At lunchtime we motored back round to Jolly Harbour, moored at the fuel and watering point and said our thanks and goodbyes. One of the men on the dock ‘happened’ to be a “taxi man” and we set off for the airport in a scrapheap a of a car – a really nice guy but we were glad to arrive after four near misses. Charles had told us about The Sticky Wickets, a pub beside the airport, which also overlooks the cricket ground. Getting our feet back on the ground with a sandwich and a beer before we set off back to the UK.
Each evening of our holiday the sun had set at around 6.30 so by 6pm we had to be organised and prepare our sundowners – pina colada, topical fruit juice, ice and, of course, a slice of lime. We looked out for the “green flash” which occasionally occurs just as the sun disappears below the horizon – but we were unlucky. We ate out a few times but it was great just staying on the boat and having our own food. After sundowners we took over as hosts – Rob cooked and I washed up – while J&L relaxed. Then it was chatting and gazing at stars (some shooting) until falling into bed around 9 – exhausted.
I’m sure after reading this you’ll all be very envious. It was a holiday we will never ever forget – all thanks to two very good friends. We feel very privileged to have been allowed to share ‘Mind the Gap’ for a short time and James and Lorna were great hosts.
Jo Dargan
PS. I hope you’ve taken note of the number of tee-shirts that were purchased!!!
Arrived Martinique after a mammoth two and a half full days and nights ofnon stop sailing. It will take us a while to recover now. It shouldn’t havetaken sooooo long but the winds were very light and mostly on the nose. Had a couple of strong puffs come through but they were always on the noseand never lasted long but had oodles of dead calm when unless we had the engines running had no steerage let alone movement. At other times the fickle light winds were directly behind which being a cat did us no good at all. Sometimes the sea was like glass, not a ripple on it and with no land in sight save a distant grey haze on the horizon.
After Charles and Fung Yee left, we spent 2 days in Antigua. Left early morning from Deep Bay hoisting the main while still at anchor and slipping away as quietly as the rattling anchor chain would allow.
It took a couple of hours to be clear of the reefs on the southern coast, time well spent with James rigging up oddments of old rope for temporary spinnaker sheets and guys and re-doing blocks and rigging. I was at the helm spotting turtles. You really need to be looking at the spot that they will surface as they do not hang around long enough for anyone to call out where to look. It’s a quick head and shell above the water and a huge audible gasp of air and they’re gone again. Had a nice gentle breeze here. Spent the day sailing down the windward side of Montserrat just laying the far point without breaching the 2 mile exclusion zone, (well not by much). The volcano spewing out clouds and the steep slopes covered in what I would describe as upside down waterfalls. From the summit, boulders were racing down sending up puffs of dust from the now desolate and totally barren land. Dust, which the wind would blow back up the slope and as it got finer,spread it out, until it combined with the clouds above. Then things would settle down until you think that the very summit will be clearly in view shortly, only for new billows to begin again at the top. Seemed to have acycle of about 10 minutes.
A long nights sail taking turns at two hour shifts brought us to the end of the Guadeloupe coastline with the group of islands known as “The Saints” ahead and Dominica just visible on the horizon. The night sky is a delightout in the middle of nowhere and I spend as much time looking for satelites and shooting stars as I do at the set of the sails. I wish I knew more of the stars without making up my own names for them. “Steering towards the Christmas stocking” is a not very precise way of handing over the shift. Watched the dawn break behind Guadeloupe’s mountainous side with thepromise of more wind in the clouds and on the ripples ahead in the water. An immense patch of sea scuffed up and disturbed. We could make out the black fins again, this time loads of them and all round the boat. They stayed and played around our bows.
The wind picked up and we were going along at a fair old lick when we were surprised at a rapidly moving boat coming straight for us no matter how fast we were moving and our change of course to get out of their way. They got close enough for James to see the enormous barrel of a cannon on their bridge deck which sent him scurrying for the VHF radio. Not that that could do much against any sort of fire power! Called up what we hoped was a naval vessel and got the reply from the US Coastguard that they were just checking the vessels identity. Happy with our verbal communication they sped off after zipping past our transom. Must have been able to read the name and number on the hull! (text about 20pixels big!)
Alert now and eyes wide open saw a huge plume of water away to port. By my guess about 30 foot high followed by another and then the tail of a whale. We were too far for a ringside seat but it was still a treat to see. It thrashed around for ages. Eventually reached the coast of Dominica. With the wind fading all day wewere facing another looooong night sail. To add a bit of spice, seeing the wind was a little astern and the spinnaker was sort of rigged we threw the sail up in the air. James was on the foredeck while I insisted on capturing the first moment of the spinnaker on camera. It was only just beginning to unfurl and set when James started barking his orders to me about pulling in this and letting out that. By the time I understood what and where and had grabbed the rope (sheet or guy- I never know which is which )- in front ofwhat I consider a tangled mass the spinnaker is up and flying nicely. James’ orders don’t stop here in fact this is the start of pull in, let out, out abit more, in, in more, and my pleas as to what to do now are met with a “fly it like a dinghys spinnaker”. I take a few more photos while clutching thecamera case under my arm but the orders come thick and fast. It’s about now I see James standing around admiring the scene hands on hips complaining that he would rather have had a full radial head spinnaker than this asymetrical one. I yell out again what do I do now ( I can’t put the cameradown on the moving deck) and with one hand this is a lot of sail to manage despite the light wind. For the first time since the start of this exercise James looks at me and can’t believe what he sees. He had preset all theropes around the winches and cleated them off so that they were easilyadjusted. Trouble was they were an assortment of joined ropes of the samecolours as our headsail sheets and furling ropes usually around that winch so I ignored them. James still doesn’t know how I managed to hold on. ( Let him try and throw me overboard now!)…. At this rate he better stop barking orders at me!!!!.
Made it to Martinique with a 25 knot gust for a few minutes on my watch. Shortly after had to wake James to rescue a mainsail batten before it took adive overboard. Refitted it today while at anchor. Yesterday afternoon walked for miles trying to find the customs house to check ourselves in. Exhausting in the heat. Aboard though it is hot, it is always cooler than onland. For all the concern the officials show it hardly seems worth the effort. Time to go ashore and track down an internet connection.
An eventful March. Charles and Fung Yee joined us in English Harbour(Antigua) They arrived on Saturday and got married on board on Monday 13th. A local government official conducted the ceremony. Had I conducted events the marriage would only be valid for the duration of the voyage. Check linkfor photos/news, updated by Charles.. http://www.aboardthegap.org/.
We did lots of sailing, maybe too much for non hardened sailors but they were up for it. Sailed to Barbuda, back to Antigua, then on to St Martin via St Barts and Tintimar. Spend a few days in St Martin and Andrew wired up the solar panels and we then had power for the rest of the sailing. We even have a partially working Fridge. Left St Martin, past St Kitts and Nevis, Fung Yee alone on the helm for 2hours at night. Her shift midnight to 02:00. She told us afterwards that she was very frightened being alone out there in the wind and the dark. We sailed well to leeward of Montserrat, at least 15 miles yet Charles and Lorna had stinging eyes to prove it. (from the volcanic dust) Next morning we saw that the boat was also dusted by the fine volcanic ash. Sailed past Guadeloupe and past The Saints, heading for Martinique via Dominica but the unsettled wind (strong then nothing forced an early stop(and turn back for The Saints. Spent the rest of the time in Guadeloupe (Gosier Island, St Annes and St Francis) before sailing back to Antigua for C&FY flights home.
Now looking forward to Bob & Jo’s visit. We may sail on to Martinique in the mean time. Any of you planning a trip, please liase with Charles, we are in regularcontact with him. The most convenient location for us to meet you is StMartin but we are prepared to meet you at other locations. Look forward to seeing some of you. Please be aware that you will not have all the luxuries of home but if you are prepared to take the boat as you find it, you are most welcome.
We were finally married on my Mind the Gap in Antigua on 13th March.
Actually, it was quite a surprise for almost everyone as there were only half a dozen people who knew our plans. I'm sure your dying to know the what-when-who-how so I’ll just try to jot things down as they come to me.
We decided in January to visit my mom and dad, and decided in February that it would also be a good time and place to get married. Once our minds were made up we realised we had about one month to plan and do all our research, not to mention plan our holiday. Actually the holiday took the back seat while we researched legal regulations and formats on the different islands, flights, venues, dresses, rings, decorations, wedding packages etc. Let's just say we spent the entire month planning our wedding and holiday honeymoon.
In the end Fung Yee abandoned the idea of a western wedding dress and was quite happy to wear a traditional Chinese dress. With that decision made it was easy for me to find a matching waist coat. I even managed to find one for my dad. At some point I realised that unless I told my parents the news via skype (internet phone) they would probably be attending our wedding in rags as they had spent the last three months fixing up the yacht engines, props, sails, surfaces, leeks, and antifouling (all really messy toxic and tough jobs). So with two weeks before our date we finally let slip the news. My parents were overjoyed with the news, but somehow they had an inkling that something was up, as I had been hinting that they would need to dress smart as we would have liked to take them to some fancy restaurants.
Another story involving the planning was our search for the wedding rings. We tried every jewelry shop in Guildford and Woking looking primarily for Fung Yee's ring. Believe me, that’s a lot of shops! There are plenty of jewelers in Guildford alone. After all of this searching we found nothing. The trouble was that Fung Yee is a size J and almost no one had a ring she liked in a size J, there were almost not J's at all. Also there was around a three week lead time for resizing in any of the high street shops. The expensive shops would do a resize in half and hour, but your wallet would wind up being resized along with the ring! Anyway after days of searching we had narrowed the style down. Unfortunately we'd narrowed the style down to such a rare one and such a rare size that finding this particular ring in the time we had left was looking like mission impossible. Now one Sunday after church we walked into town, and on a whim we went to one of the jewelers who sell the particular style we were looking for. We weren’t expecting it but they had the style, size, weight, material everything that we'd been looking for. Of course we still drove a hard bargain but were absolutely delighted to get another item off our checklist. At the time we thought it was a miracle, no joke. This shop only had one ring that was a size J, plus this was the only shop which offered this style, plus this style was not one of their main lines so it was a complete fluke that this ring was even in the shop. My ring is another story and I only managed to buy it the Sunday before we left. I can't believe that in this case I was even more fussy than Fung Yee.
Anyhow that’s enough preamble, onto the main even.
It was wonderful just to meet up with my parents. They met us at the airport so we were all hit by emotion having missed seeing each other for months plus the added joy of sharing our news face to face.
After all our meticulous research we had decided to have a civil ceremony aboard "Mind the Gap". We were much more comfortable organizing the wedding ourselves than a wedding package company, and made it that much more special and unique for us.
Mom and Dad told us what the pace of life is like and told us to be prepared for the ceremony to be delayed / postponed. We hadn't read anything to the contrary and had been verbally assured several times it was a simple process and that there would be no problem for us to have the wedding on the day we had planed.
To cut a long story short. We agreed to have a simple, "stress free" and very romantic wedding on the catamaran on an exotic island. Our wedding ceremony was conducted by a local marriage officer while we were moored in English Harbour, so our marriage was 100% legal and authorized by Antigua and Barbuda with certificate aswell. Dad would joke that he could perform the marriage being skipper/captian, however it would only be valid for the duration of the voyage. After the wedding, we jumped in the sea and started our honeymoon for the rest of our holiday. How about that for a wedding, I think we also managed to surprise ourselves.
All in all it was a fantastic wedding, honeymoon and three week sailing holiday with lots of surprises and adventures. We sailed to different islands (countries), ie. Antigua and Barbuda , St Barts, St Maarten/ St Martin, Anguilla , Guadeloupe and Les Saintes. Although for the amount of sailing we did we also sailed right past Monserat, Donmica and St Barts. It was interesting to explore these countries, although they are all Caribbean islands they are different in lots of little ways. The funny thing was that after our first days sail, English Harbour to Barbuda we passed out after sailing for 20 minutes as the boat was rocked by the strong winds and waves. After few days, we were fit to do more and EVEN walk around on the boat. The most challenging experience was that we were asked to sail the boat alone at midnight for 2 hours in turn. Honestly, fungyee was scared to death to sail the boat on her own in the dark. I was also scared to let her so mom and I both caught some light sleep on deck right next to her just in case. It was impossible to see anything apart from the lights of stars and moon. What Fung Yee did was to keep praying and ask God to guide her because she was frightened she would crash into something. It also reminded her of a story from the bible when Jesus asked Peter to walk on the sea. We could well understand why he was so frightened and fell into the sea though as he must have had lots of faith to go even half way. At that time, she was thinking if God asked her to do the same thing, her answer would have be definitely NO and told him that it was not necessary to walk on the sea in order to prove her faith. After all the excitement, we're proud of ourselves to do this little bit of solo sailing.
Back in the water. We relauched on Tues 14th, but have had to pick up a mooring. Last night we went back to the dock for loading water and using power. It was incredibly hard work, non stop and it will take a few days to recover. By the way our last swim was on 2nd Feb and the one before that about 25th Jan. We are just too busy or anchored in the lagoon (which isn't the cleanest water). MTG is looking much better on the outside. Hoping to get the sail bag fitted this evening.
Bimini made and fitted so now we have proper shade. Looks good.
Still waiting foir delivery of the sail cover (ordered) and the davits are being made (metal structure that will support the dinghy and solar panels). S' panels ordered. We are planning on hauling out of the water in the next couple of weeks for a week of very hard labour sanding the hulls and painting. On the list are still new batteries once s' panels arive, inverter, water maker, nav gauges and instruments. Then James wants to redo the rigging layout. Once we have power then on to communication stuff.
It's been blowing hard for a week now. Taken refuge in the lagoon. Swells of 4 meters were expected out in the bay. Rain squalls like you wont believe. Last week end decided the bay was too wavy so sailed, a good sail aroud to the french side of the island and anchored in crystal clear dead flat water. Went for lunch to Andrews, back at the boat for a wind changing evening. Constantly worried about sweeping into a new boat that had picked up a mooring next to us. Wind and rain that night. Next day chaos reigns. Wind and really rough seas. Worried about anchor chain pulling so hard , another yacht on the rocks, while we watch. Anchor one tie snaps so we call it a day and up sticks to head back for the first bay. It's now evening our batteries are not good, instruments worse. Head out of the bay under power, nearly loose dinghy as it flips on the old davits first one way then the other, James retrieves it by hanging from the back while I try and steer. Flipflops and 2 stroke oil abandon ship faster than a family of nervous rats. Made it back safely. Found James' flip flops, both, on the beach a couple of days later. They were originally yours Chales or Brians? Mine are gone.
Lots more to tell but it takes time and space at Andrews work..
Still on bulk mail I'm afraid. Life continues apace aboard Mind the Gap. Lots to do and no sign of the relaxed atmosphere of a tranquil paradise.
Things are being added to the list almost as fast as they are deleted. Had an eventful week past. Very windy and swells of over 4 meters. Had a good sail around to the French side after calling it a day in wavy Simpson Bay. Anchored in mirror-like sea with visibility to the bottom.
Next day we headed back to the relative calm of Simpson Bay as the wind arrived with gusto in Marigot. Hary scary stuff saw our flip-flops (that we kept in the dinghy, not used on the boat) abandon ship faster than a colony of nervous rats. An enjoyable afternoon off from hard labour spent beachcombing. We retrieved james hand-me -up pair of flip-flops, while I was forced to go shopping for new ones. Some things are tough!
Looking forward to hauling her out of the water in a couple of weeks, to scour and repaint the bottom. Seriously hard labour for a week, she's got a big bottom!
Surprise! 
WIDGETIZE