Aizuwakamatsu - part I
Sunday, 7. December 2008, 07:55:36
Last two days of my stay in Japan we spent in a town Aizuwakamatsu, the oldest and probably the biggest town in Fukushima prefecture, about few hours drive north of Tokyo. A town was founded about 1000 years ago, changed many rulers during unstable times of wars from X to XV century. In XVII century it became a main city of one of the most loyal Tokugawa supporters until the last shogun (leader of military government, full title was Sei-i Tai Shogun) resigned in 1868.
Aizu Bukeyashiki
A term "bukeyashiki" is used to explain a residence of the samurai of Edo period in Japan (XVII - XIX century). This one we visited was a home of Saigo Tanomo (left photo), a chief councilor of Aizu han.
He served under Matsudaira Katamori daimyo (lord of the domain, right photo) and opposed his decision to fight against Imperial army. But, no matter what he thought and claimed, his loyalty as a samurai to his daimyo was out of question and he fought against army of emperor Meiji in defense of Wakamatsu during the Battle of Aizu. They were defeated and Saigo and his son Kichijuro escaped. On the same time 21 members of his family, including women and children, commited seppuku (suicide) in this bukeyashiki, in fear that he will not return from war. Tanomo spent several years in prison and eventually returned to bukeyashiki in 1899. He died there in 1903.
After war, a place was completely burnt but was restored about 20 years ago as it was, with all of its 38 rooms.
Saigo Tanomo was a teacher of Takeda Sokaku, founder of Daito Ryu. There is a small monument as a reminder of beginnings of this martial art.
Byakkotai and Mt. Iimoriyama
Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) was one of the four Aizu domain military. It was, along with other three (Genbutai, Seiryutai, and Shujakutai) named after one of the protecting gods of compass directions. Byakkotai was meant to be a reserve unit, consisted mostly of teenager sons of Aizu samurai. It was divided to six squads, two each of upper, middle and lowest ranks.
During Boshnin war, one squad from upper ranks were cut off and retreated to hill Iimori. As most of the city was set on fire, they thought a Tsuruga-jo castle have fallen (daimyo residence), so they decided to commit seppuku (suicide, plunging a sword into the abdomen and moving the sword left to right in a slicing motion) and they never learned they had been mistaken - the resistance in castle lasted about a month and was concluded in November 6, 1868.
They were only 16 and 17 years old. Their act is an great example of what pride and honour was really like among samurai. Bushido, The Way of Warrior code was very strong among them, even though it was clear that samurai era is coming to its end. After the war their bodies were just left there but later, imperial government gave permission to burry them and memorial at Iimori was erected.
There was one survivor, Iinuma Sadakichi. After his unsuccessful attempt to comit suicide, he was saved by a local peasant and after war, he moved to a nearby city Sendai where he spent the rest of his life, serving as officer in the army.
At Iimoriyama, there is a poem made by Matsudaira Katamori:
"No matter how many people wash the stones with their tears,
these names will never vanish from the world."
The day we spent there was nice and cold, mountains were all covered in white.

I wonder, was it the same for Byakkotai soldiers?
***
More photos here.
Aizu Bukeyashiki
A term "bukeyashiki" is used to explain a residence of the samurai of Edo period in Japan (XVII - XIX century). This one we visited was a home of Saigo Tanomo (left photo), a chief councilor of Aizu han.
He served under Matsudaira Katamori daimyo (lord of the domain, right photo) and opposed his decision to fight against Imperial army. But, no matter what he thought and claimed, his loyalty as a samurai to his daimyo was out of question and he fought against army of emperor Meiji in defense of Wakamatsu during the Battle of Aizu. They were defeated and Saigo and his son Kichijuro escaped. On the same time 21 members of his family, including women and children, commited seppuku (suicide) in this bukeyashiki, in fear that he will not return from war. Tanomo spent several years in prison and eventually returned to bukeyashiki in 1899. He died there in 1903.
After war, a place was completely burnt but was restored about 20 years ago as it was, with all of its 38 rooms.
Saigo Tanomo was a teacher of Takeda Sokaku, founder of Daito Ryu. There is a small monument as a reminder of beginnings of this martial art.
Byakkotai and Mt. Iimoriyama
Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps) was one of the four Aizu domain military. It was, along with other three (Genbutai, Seiryutai, and Shujakutai) named after one of the protecting gods of compass directions. Byakkotai was meant to be a reserve unit, consisted mostly of teenager sons of Aizu samurai. It was divided to six squads, two each of upper, middle and lowest ranks.
During Boshnin war, one squad from upper ranks were cut off and retreated to hill Iimori. As most of the city was set on fire, they thought a Tsuruga-jo castle have fallen (daimyo residence), so they decided to commit seppuku (suicide, plunging a sword into the abdomen and moving the sword left to right in a slicing motion) and they never learned they had been mistaken - the resistance in castle lasted about a month and was concluded in November 6, 1868.
They were only 16 and 17 years old. Their act is an great example of what pride and honour was really like among samurai. Bushido, The Way of Warrior code was very strong among them, even though it was clear that samurai era is coming to its end. After the war their bodies were just left there but later, imperial government gave permission to burry them and memorial at Iimori was erected.
There was one survivor, Iinuma Sadakichi. After his unsuccessful attempt to comit suicide, he was saved by a local peasant and after war, he moved to a nearby city Sendai where he spent the rest of his life, serving as officer in the army.
At Iimoriyama, there is a poem made by Matsudaira Katamori:
"No matter how many people wash the stones with their tears,
these names will never vanish from the world."
The day we spent there was nice and cold, mountains were all covered in white.

I wonder, was it the same for Byakkotai soldiers?
***
More photos here.








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Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 09:39
K C N Martínez # 7. December 2008, 09:45
I like the statues a lot.
Kitty # 7. December 2008, 10:19
It's quite a huge residence he got himself, huh? :impressed:
Cool post!
Darko # 7. December 2008, 11:28
MizzM - well, the most of what could be seen there was a part of history, what it looked like about 150 years ago
Zaphira - Saigo Tanomo was just an official of a clan; but even though his residence was big it was nothing comparing to castle his daimyo had - Tsuruga-jo castle will be in my next post
I put some more photographs, Opera servers refused to accept uploading 15 at once, so I needed to put 5 by 5 of them
Adele # 7. December 2008, 11:51
I've more or less given up uploading pictures on Opera. These days I put them on Photobucket instead. It takes about a tenth of the time!
Darko # 7. December 2008, 12:00
I hate to use another website for my photos now that I have a place here in Opera. In time, it will be better, I hope
K C N Martínez # 7. December 2008, 12:06
Darko # 7. December 2008, 12:14
K C N Martínez # 7. December 2008, 12:16
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 12:51
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 12:59
So from your blog again I tried your photo tab and I use the Opera browser, I get elements: 0/0 so I tried all your other tabs and the same thing elements: 0/0
I can't get to any of your other tabs.
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 13:14
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 13:15
Mit # 7. December 2008, 13:22
I'm very curiuos to read about Tsuruga-jo castle
Allan # 7. December 2008, 13:32
Not that Tokyo isn't, but I think it's like that in every country. If you want to see the "real" country, you don't go to the major international city. You go to the second or third city.
r♡se # 7. December 2008, 16:34
Edward Piercy # 7. December 2008, 16:48
And the photos are great too.
Did you ever see the movie The Last Samurai -- ??? I kinda liked that one.
Kitty # 7. December 2008, 16:56
Angeliki # 7. December 2008, 17:19
"On the same time 21 members of his family, including women and children, committed seppuku (suicide) in this bukeyashiki, in fear that he will not return from war"
thanks for sharing
I am looking forward to the second part ! *hugs*
PainterWoman # 7. December 2008, 17:34
Cois # 7. December 2008, 17:52
Darko # 7. December 2008, 18:25
Mit - it is nice indeed; story about their tragic destiny is something that brings deep sigh out of a listener;
Allan - this is my point exactly; and another one: it is necessary to spend more than 15 days (what we usually have for a days off of job) in some city/country to get a full understanding of a way of living of people there; sometimes more; but we are limited by circumstances and sometimes have a wrong impressions;
Rose - thank you
Ed - thank you; the story in The Last Samurai is based on actual events that happened in Japan during 19th century; there you can see a war between Emperor`s troops made of peasants and commoners, armed with modern weapons and using tactics of western countries; on the other side there are samurai warriors, using their traditional armors and weapons, fighting against what they thought will destroy true spirit of Japan;
I didn`t like Tom Cruise in that movie though
Zaphira - I want a sword like that
Angeliki - family ties and a sense of duty; in old Japan samurai women were given a small knife or sword as a wedding gift from their fathers; to protect themselves and to protect their honour and honour of their husbands;
Pam - thak you
Cois - thank you
Kitty # 7. December 2008, 18:35
Darko # 7. December 2008, 18:42
Kitty # 7. December 2008, 18:45
Martin K # 7. December 2008, 20:21
There are some pictures here. You might know the places.
http://www.balimusic.dk/billeder/page23/page23.html
Next time, though...
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 20:40
Darko # 7. December 2008, 21:23
Carol -
Cois # 7. December 2008, 21:41
Angeliki # 7. December 2008, 21:42
I wish the rest of the world did learn something out of the Japanese about respect
Dacotah # 7. December 2008, 23:30
Martin K # 8. December 2008, 00:01
Darko # 8. December 2008, 06:03
Angeliki - people in Japan are very polite, everywhere, as one of my friends stated, they are polite in a street as we are polite in our homes; it doesn`t matter if this is just an usual everyday way of living, it feels good and make you do the same way
Carol -
Aqualion - nice point of view
Angeliki # 8. December 2008, 06:13
Kimmie # 8. December 2008, 09:54
Darko # 8. December 2008, 10:08
Kimmie # 8. December 2008, 10:10
Cois # 8. December 2008, 10:22
I keep thinking of Ronin for some reason.
But they're the ones that were masterless and wandered the plains or something?
Darko # 8. December 2008, 10:33
Cois - ronins are masterless samurais who lost their master by his death or punishment, and usually were considered as thieves and cowards, because they didn't have guts to kill themselves because of that dishonour; but, after establishing Tokugawa shogunate, a lot of proffesional warriors (mostly lower ranking samurais and soldiers) were left without job; wars stopped under strong hand of Ieyasu Tokugawa and time was needed for all of them to find a service under another master;
Kimmie # 8. December 2008, 12:42
Darko # 8. December 2008, 14:53
Cois # 9. December 2008, 08:31
Martin K # 9. December 2008, 10:20
dɹɐzılpǝkɔıw ɐʞɐ ɹǝɥgɐllɐg lǝbɐsı # 9. December 2008, 12:21
Darko # 9. December 2008, 14:31
Isabel -
Louis # 11. December 2008, 20:50
I'm catching up on your blog a little. What an interesting trip it must have been!
Great photos and great stories
Darko # 11. December 2008, 22:02
Nice to see you again.
studio41 # 16. December 2008, 00:21
Darko # 16. December 2008, 05:49
I hope your family will enjoy my posts and maybe comment if they find something unaccurate in my posts.
My food there was mostly traditional Japanese, miso soup with nori, white rice, tempura, sashimi, soba noodles, daikon prepared in different ways, umeboshi and some chinese dishes (there is a biggest China town in Yokohama)
And a beautiful green tea
studio41 # 16. December 2008, 07:10