ned i solen

jon packer's photo, travel and trip log

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Kondolilla National Park & Mt Barney Lower Portals

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These were a couple of separate trips back in early April and early March. I've been crazy-busy in my day job, so the update has been a long time coming.

Kondolilla National Park is a small national park north-west of Brisbane in the sunshine coast hinterland. It's easily accessible from the highway or the back way through Samford and Mt Mee (the back way being much more beautiful, but time consuming). I went the back way.

It was an overcast day, but when you're shooting rainforest - or any Queensland bush really - that is a good thing. The Queensland sun is very harsh and if it is shining down on you then you're going to have a frustrating time trying to get an acceptably exposed shot. It restricts you to working in the golden hours, and that makes things very hard for someone with a day job!

Mt Mee was a great drive, but as is the story with many great Queensland drives, it is very rare to find a good angle that is unobstructed. It was already late in the day though, so I moved on.

There was a great atmosphere at the top of the range at Maleny. Although the Glasshouse Mountains were fully shrouded in cloud, the view to the ocean was clear, with low mist hanging below the mountains. However, again, time was on my mind and there were no good angles to be found from my quick glances at the roadside.

I got to Kondolilla late in the afternoon, and was expecting quite a long walk from what had been written on the Government's national parks page. I gathered up my gear (17-40, 70-200, tripod) and set out.

Right at the start of the trail there's a relatively small but interesting and well positioned waterfall. The track crosses a man-made bridge just after it. Waterfalls were what I was here for, so I set down and took some photos.



I've received more than one comment on this photo saying the vignetting is too much. While I do agree there's a lot of vignetting on there, I have to wonder if they're talking about the gradient of the water, which is actually mostly natural. The vignetting is fairly light in this photo in comparison to some of my other recent stuff.

The track winds through some quite dense rainforest right after the waterfall. Dense rainforest is quite difficult to capture usually - there is so much going on that it just comes out as green noise. Your best hope is to find some kind of feature you can compose around. A lot of the time this ends up being the track.



The track ascends into some airier forest with ferny undergrowth. I have to admit I love this kind of vegetation, it's such a great atmosphere. I took a whole slew of photos, but most of them fell down on composition or some other intruding elements.



Now that we're over the ridge, the track rapidly descends into the valley. It continues into some even different vegetation - a mixture of dense trees and palms. A very interesting kind of forest. About this time you start to notice the constant sound of rushing water, and seeing the waterfall behind the trees as you pass by.



The track opens into a small area with an open view of the falls, but of course, the cloud breaks and the sun shines directly onto them! Just my luck. I can't very well have a blog post about Kondolilla falls without a picture of Kondolilla falls though, so here is an unprocessed photo to simply give you an idea of what the waterfall looks like.



We pass down to the very bottom of the gorge, and cross the stream coming from the falls. Since this area was below the canopy, I stopped on the bridge to take a photo.



The track then passes back up the other side of the gorge, all though this time the vegetation is mostly dense rainforest and mostly uneventful with few good opportunities for photos. The uneven light had returned again as well. After a couple of snapshots at a creek crossing, I put the camera away and headed back to the car.



It turned out to only be around a 2 hour walk with photo stops. If you are fit, and not taking photos, you could easily finish this walk in under and hour, I think.

Mapleton Falls is a waterfall just outside of Mapleton, which is just up the road from Kondolilla. I stopped by and took some photos from the looking which hangs over the edge of a cliff, and gives decent views over the valley and a side-on view of the waterfall. It also gave me a good chance to try some of the perks of my new tripod!





A couple of weeks later I had the chance to tag along to Mt Barney Lower Portals. It had been a while since I'd been down to this area and I certainly did not remember how prominent Mt Barney or Mt Maroon were. They do have a reputation in SE QLD, but you really have to see the mountains for yourself to see why.

Unfortunately, today was not the day to climb them, though. We did a walk into one of the lower areas of Mt Barney where the creek runs down from the mountain. The combination of very strong and uneven lighting, and mostly light bush interspersed with gum trees meant there were very few opportunities for photos.





That's all for this week. I just got back from a big adventure down to Armidale, Waterfall Way, Dorrigo and Bellingen though, so there is a few reports from the trip coming up! Hopefully I will get time in the next few weeks.





Governor's Chair & Queen Mary Falls

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Last week my new camera arrived, so of course I had to spend the following weekend trying it out.

I headed down south-west to a place that I'm now surprised is not mentioned more often: Main Range national park. Main range is home to the highest mountain in south-east Queensland, Mount Superbus, several great mountain hikes, and a whole lot of very accessible natural beauty. I chose to spend most of the day driving. Some great new albums had come out during the week, and I generally did not feel like strenuous physical activity. The route I took:



Governor's Chair
I went first to Governor's Chair, which is at Spicer's Gap, another gap in Main Range south of Cunningham's Gap through which the highway runs. Spicer's Gap was the originally identified pass through the Main Range, and Spicer's Gap Road is still around from that time. Spicer's Gap Road runs off Lake Moogerah Road, all the way over Spicer's Gap to the Cunningham highway on the other side. However, for regular vehicles, you can only access from Lake Moogerah Road to the Governor's Chair carpark. Once the road starts heading up the mountain, it is unsealed - but it is well maintained, and most cars shouldn't have any problem with it. Once you get to the carpark, it's about 150m walk to Governor's Chair.

The "lookout" is simply a bare-rock break in the trees, on the edge of a 10m cliff. There's no man made viewing platforms or infrastructure, it's just the cliff - but it rises above the trees and gives an impressive panorama of south-east Queensland. You can see all the way back to the D'Aguilar range, Brisbane, the NSW border, Mount Barney and if you're looking hard enough you may even spot Lamington National Park.


The view toward Lake Moogerah from Governor's Chair.

While it's an impressive view to behold in person, there's not much room to get creative with the shots here. There's not much space to get different angles, and it can be difficult to find something interesting to put in the foreground.


Mount Barney.

Lake Moogerah & Mt Greville
Next up, I was headed south to Queen Mary Falls. I chose a slightly slower route in order to get up closer to Mt Greville and Lake Moogerah. Mt Greville is large mountain directly south of Lake Moogerah, and is quite obvious in the first photo. As you are driving on Lake Moogerah road, Mt Greville is hanging over you the whole time. I definitely want to come back to this one and climb it soon, but today wasn't the day for that. It was nearing 3pm, and I had no idea how long it would take me to get to Queen Mary Falls.

From the side of the road, it's not easy to find a good shot of the mountain, especially not when you're rushed. I pulled over below the mountain to try my luck. Unfortunately, there were some trees in the way blocking both of the compositions I would have liked to have used, and movement was restricted by tall grass, trees and barbed wire.


Mount Greville.

I kept driving, and just down the road there was a spot with a clear view over a 50-60m grassy patch to Lake Moogerah. There were great views over the lake to the northern ramparts of Main Range.


Lake Moogerah & Northern Main Range.

On the other side of the road, the cows were evidently not impressed by me or my camera. Time to keep moving!


Mooooo.

On the way to Queen Mary Falls
When I was still on my way at 4:30, I knew I would be getting to Queen Mary Falls later than I thought. I drove up the range past Teviot State Forest was surprised to find Teviot Falls. I didn't know anything about them, I just spotted them across the gorge when looking out the window of the car. They were quite impressive, but appeared to be quite inaccessible. There was also a view back over the valley to the coast, where a distant storm was dumping rain.


Teviot Falls.


The view back over the valley.

Straight after Teviot Falls the road passed through some thick forest and into a grassy highland area below Mount Superbus with forests to either side. It was a nice area to drive through, getting progressively nicer over the course of the gradual ascent.


Spring Creek Valley.

Further up the road there was a nice lookout (which I have forgotten the name of) offering views of Mount Superbus, Wilson's Peak, Mount Barney and even Tamborine Mountain.


Wilson's Peak (left), Mount Barney (mid-right).

Queen Mary Falls
I finally got there by around 5pm. There was still plenty of light, but it was behind cloud and the sun was getting low in the sky. Perfectly suited for a waterfall - the lack of light allowed longer exposures. My new tripod proved extremely useful as well, allowing me to suspend the camera out over the railing of the lookout for long exposures.






Queen Mary Falls.

By the time I left it was 6pm and the sun was setting - I was in for a long, dark 2 hour drive home. I kept getting glimpses of a fantastic sunset behind me, and I only got a single chance to take a photo of it when the trees parted. I would have taken more but as soon as I took the first shot a bunch of cows walked into the shot. As I drove back to the lookout, the sun kept teasing me in the rear-view mirror, but I wasn't able to find a place to get a good view of it.


Sunset.

That's all! I enjoyed my first outing with the 5D2, and am going to try to make it a habit to go somewhere new every weekend or at least every other weekend. Next up, Kondalilla Falls & Mapleton Falls - this time heading north.

Cedar Creek Trip Report

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This past weekend I went out on a hike at Cedar Creek in the Samford Valley north west of Brisbane with my sister (Bee) and brother in law (James). It gave me a good chance to try some of the new gear I've invested in, as well as giving me a chance to shoot some nature (it's been much too long!). It ended up being challenging in more ways than one.

I probably knew before I left that I had bit off more than I could chew, packing my 40D and 4 lenses and a tripod in my newly purchased Lowepro Vertex 200AW backpack. I had just bought the backpack and wanted to give it a try, but it weighs 3.5kg by itself. Definitely not the best choice for a hike on very uneven terrain on a humid 35c day. Luckily, the laptop compartment of the 200AW allowed me to fit a camelback bladder, so I had no shortage of water.

Cedar Creek is a popular place to go and swim for nearby residents. A sealed road leads to the bottom of the ascent, and there is parking on either side of the road (unmarked, just park in the gravel). We were headed to the end of the ascent up the creek, to a large waterfall. Most of the swimming is done at the bottom of the mountain where the road ends, but further up you barely see anyone. At the very end, there is a 40-50m high three-tier waterfall. It does not seem to be well known -- I could not find a single picture on Google Images, Flickr or DeviantArt with the waterfall in it (to avoid confusion, there's two "Cedar Creek"s in the vicinity of Brisbane, the other, the Mt Tamborine one, is quite well known).

The hike itself is entirely unmarked and simply follows the creek. Good footwear and a basic level of fitness would help (although I had neither!). You need to climb fairly high rock ledges, do some scrambling, and jump over the creek several times. Do not go in or after the rain -- since a large part of the walk is on bald rock, the entire hike becomes very slippery and dangerous (we made this mistake ourselves once and had to turn back).

We started at 8.30 and kept a steady pace. We took a couple of breaks on the way up, but didn't take many photos. Lesson 1 about the 200AW: your camera will not be easily accessible. I was already justifying it to myself that the purpose of this trip was to try a difficult hike with the bag full - not to take photos. Right?


Bee standing next to the the third tier of the final Cedar Creek waterfall (Tokina 12-24).

We reached the top at around 10.15, and it was around this time that I realized it was the middle of an Australian summer day, with harsh uneven sunlight casting dark shadows. Add to this that the only possible vantage point of the waterfall is directly below it. I had not planned this trip very well! Despite the lighting conditions and positioning, I got a few acceptable photos. I'm happy about that, at least, since it does not seem to be a commonly photographed location.


Standing on the rocks next to the waterfall (Tokina 12-24).

As we were leaving, we got up on top of the rocks and found the clearest view we could find of the waterfall. Unfortunately, it was still blocked by a couple of trees. If you look closely, though, you can see all three tiers of the waterfall and the cascade down into the pool below:


The whole scene at the end of the hike (Tokina 12-24).

We started hiking back down, and it was fine going to start with. We passed by a calm cascade under the canopy, and I couldn't resist the chance to finally have a go at some more even lighting. Unfortunately the harsh sun was still hitting the bush behind, resulting in a slightly overwhelming and busy image. The composition also leaves something to be desired:


A cascade about half way up the Cedar Creek ascent (Tamron 17-50, Vanguard Alta 264AT+SBH250, ND4+ND8).

Just past this point I began to feel the heat and the weight of the bag, and my unfitness began taking it's toll. By the end, I was completely exhausted. It didn't matter what I was wearing, it was time to swim.



Feeling dehydrated and sick by the end, I was happy to be done. We headed back to Keperra at 12.30 and got some lunch. The heat, the weight of the backpack, and the lack of fitness were not a good combination in the end. I think it's time to invest in a slingshot bag and go jogging!