Sunday, 3. August 2008, 16:01:38

Picnic Skiff. Courtesy of Pete Reed@Flickr.
This is the time when things get a little more difficult and the compromises have to be considered. No matter what I do with the above it just isn't going to to go into the garage and neither, unfortunately will this:

Keith (The Who)Moon's "Mayflower" (was one fine rock drummmer) Courtesy of Wikipedia.

Pink Floyd's recording studio @ Hampton. Picture:(one of mine)
But, I could get several garages into this one!
However that is just not going to happen...So now is the time to become a little more specific - maybe a crossbreed between the top two above (and on a smaller scale) would fit the bill?. So, first things first,if you are going to build..where?
Well now, maybe I was lucky or just plain unfortunate, because one of these boxes came with the house.

Picture: Standard "Sixties" battery garage/lockup.
There are thousands of these in this area. Each a nominal sixteen feet by eight feet. Enough? Not really for a sixteen foot by five foot boat (especially when all your material is in alongside you at the same time!
However, I deemed that this would be possible.. Bit of double handling, not a problem. Easy!
Car, associated bric-a brac and spider colonies were evicted in total. No heat, no power, a suspect roof and a distinct resemblance to a black hole remained. In went the white paint for the walls and battleship grey for the concrete floor. A few shelves to keep the floor clear and suddenly there was a place to build!
Well in reality there wasn't. Regardless of how you aproach a build you require a flat horizontal base to work from.
Problem No.1.Careful measurement showed that there was a fall of 15cm from the rear wall to the up'n'over door frame and at the same time there was a 10cm fall from left to right. This caused a little head scratching until it dawned on me that it could be solved quite easily:

I made up six of these trestles in 75mm by 37mm deal, four feet wide, worked out the height of the legs of each to cope with the respective falls and fitted two small caps which could be shimmed to pick up any localised lumps.These were fitted to each trestle and wonder of wonders, it worked first time around! (Doubt if I could repeat it!)
The solution was pretty well ideal. I could get between the trestles and keep a reasonable degree of accuracy going. I can recommend it to anyone with the same problem. Over the build period I have lost three of them as they were cannibalised for other essentials but two and one half remain and will be used for painting purposes (to allow the boat to be jacked clear of the trailer).
The construction method I chose was epoxy stitch'n'glue. I judged that working on my own in a very limited space was probably the best way to go at it. The design, as is the norm for most craft of this size and duty uses 6mm ply. I chose 9mm because of the "knockabout use" that the craft would encounter and a plus for the decision was the solution of the problem of the raised outer joint bandage (which certainly isn't pretty). This meant that I could remove one ply for a distance of 5cm either side of the joint for the length of the seam and reinstate the strength with the application of glass bandage plus epoxy and not come proud of the hull line. The result was fine and the joint strength more than adequate.
Problem No.2.The 9mm ply choice had seemed fine to me. However I hadn't bargained for its' extra strength and, after snapping a panel, it was clear that drawing the two bow sections together was going to be a real struggle.
I used the same tactic on the lower bow chine. This time I used vertically routed strips at 25mm intervals.
Soaked timber, followed by copious amounts of boiling water, coupled with a resolute, sustained, windlass pull resulted in closure. With a sigh of relief, epoxy was poured into the joint. When dry the routed strips were liberally bandaged and epoxied to reinstate the strength.
At this point I had a shell and I quickly got some cross menbers into place to stiffen the floppy structure while I waited for my trailer to turn up.
Problem No.3.When I had ordered the trailer initially I had asked for a swivel coupling (you used to see them on caravans) this was so that once trailer and boat were in the garage, I could easily turn the forepart of the trailer to lie inside the garage and close the door. Somehow the manufacturer forgot about this although it was on the order form. It seemed that they had neglected to mention to me that there had been a change in legislation and that the swivel coupling had been declared "agricultural usage". I was only interested in a quick solution and this was the result:

First real light of day! This ship just climbed out of its' bottle!
You can just see the "sleeve" here. There will be a better idea of it further on. This is just getting a mention here because it just shows that you can never take anything for granted. Always, always make sure that your requirements are always crystal clear even, when it is the only business that your manufacturer is in!
However, this was a turning point and now, construction could be completed on the trailer which would allow the build to be run in and out of the "boatshed" as the vagaries of the British weather dictated.
Room to move at last!

Moving along and still a lot to do!

The "Boatyard" unplugged! "Eureka! I can move again!"..

The "Boatyard" - Plugged!

Here is the solution for the "Sleeve" mentioned earlier. You can see that it is fairly substantial and solves the problem of door closure. Jack up the boat, remove sleeve and drop the boat on the jack until closed. Voila! (however, you can see a lot of cosmetic work has to be done here before final paint coatings start).
The more eagle-eyed among you may have spotted lighting in these pictures. Thanks to a generous neighbour I have been able to take a 1KW supply line from a garage further away. I made sure that this supply is metered at entry to the boathouse and it means that when I return from a trip with depleted batteries, I simply plug in and I am ready to go again in the morning! Well, maybe, that one hasn't been proven yet!

A seriously fore-shortened view. The stern section is actually the same length as the bow section but the basics are there and if there are any references to bits'n'pieces you can probably find them here.
This is where I am today. Less optimistic than I was about an end of August launch for there is still a lot to be done..We will see, but if the weather continues to deteriorate then it is not very likely.
So this would be a useful time for a recap and to evaluate what has yet to be done.
Originally the concept was to have a trailerboat that was visually pleasant, stable, suited to quiet gentle browsing along backwaters and, in general, to be unobtrusive where animal life, fishermen and OAPs were concerned (in that order). So,in the end, the search was dictated by the constraint of size (i.e. the need to both build and store the craft). There is, of course another constraint and that is the overall ease of handling on and off the water. It is pointless to arrive back at your slipway, exhausted after a strenuous day and no longer have the strength to manoeuvre the beast to get it home. So, again physical size comes into play. From previous experience, a long time ago, I used to have a Wayfarer which was a family dinghy, a sort of Volvo of the dinghy world. Safe, stable and heavy, it sometimes took all the strength that I could muster to get it back to to the club park. I decided, way back then, on the magic sixteen feet mark as being my maximum for capability. There is nothing more certain than when you need help, there won't be any! If you are built like "The Hulk" then you carry on and pick your own poison but, I think that for Mr. Average, the sixteen feet length is probably enough for this kind of usage.
For continuation see Boating DIY - Tidy-up and Launch: