Dana Koogler

STICKY POST

Botanical Bliss 2009--The Bloom Report Edition 1

Thursday, 2. April 2009, 13:34:09

hiking, smoky mountains, wildflowers, botanicalbliss ...

Kyker's Red Barn
belonging to Janet and Tommy Ralston
is the Botanical Bliss barn for edition 1
of the new season in 2009!

Botanical Bliss 2009--The Bloom Report
Edition 1
by
Dana Bradley-Koogler
4/1/2009

Photos are here
Botanical Bliss 2009 Edition 1

Welcome to the first edition of Botanical Bliss for the 2009 bloom season!

I am excited to begin my third year of keeping up with what is in bloom in our area at a given time. Blount County, Tennessee is waking up from a long, cold Winter to begin a beautiful Spring season. Joyfully our drought was broken during Winter and our water table is back to normal levels. I am hopeful that we will have a beautiful time of Spring ephemerals and that we will not suffer any killing frosts.

Overeager for Spring Flowers??

I learned this Spring that it is possible to be overeager for Spring flowers.
A lesson I will share and I'll try to avoid repeating in the future. My overly enthusiastic ways have made me work harder for flowers than I had to. My mantra has always been work smarter, not harder, but I really lost my mind this year after that long, cold Winter.

My husband Kenny told me about UT Gardens and suggested we ride up to see it one
Saturday afternoon on a weekend I was working. We were both craving some exercise and fresh air and a little color after the drab days of February. We were not expecting too much since the temperatures were still cool, but figured at least we'd know where the gardens were for future visits and whatever we saw pretty was just bonus. We were not disappointed!
We had a very pleasant stroll around the gardens on a pretty afternoon and saw lots of daffodils, lenten rose, pulmonaria, and crocus of various colors. We also saw some lovely shrubbery and flowering trees.

Walking path at UT Gardens in Knoxville on Neyland Drive.

Crocuses are popping up at UT Gardens!

Speckled Hellebore or Lenten Rose at University of Tennessee Gardens. Located along Neyland Drive across from the river in Knoxville.

Another way I tried coping with the wildflower craving was by getting out and visiting numerous waterfalls. March is peak waterfall season since we have lots of rain and snow melt filling streams with blue green water. Even our wet weather waterfalls were flowing again!
One of the falls we visited was Alarka Falls. Kenny had not seen the upper portions of it and wanted to try it since we'd had a rainy weekend.

Alarka Falls, NC

One of the ways I cope with the doldrums of Winter after the holidays to look at hiking guides and wildflower guides and dream of where I want to visit when the weather warms up.

One of the places that had me intrigued was Beard Cane Creek Trail in the Smokies. The hiking guide describes it like this "This moist, shaded hollow displays a bumper crop of Spring flowers". Another hiking guide says "the valley floor bursts into flower in Spring". I tried investigating by looking for photos of the area on the internet. I found only a few and all they showed was trail signs and all were taken in Fall or Winter. It is an interior trail and not easy to access from any direction. It is also one of those dual use horse-hiker trails and one of the cautions is that it is VERY muddy after rains. Most folks steer clear and so it was no shock that I was not finding any photos of it in bloom. It added to the mystique for me. I got a tip from a fellow who said it was a gorgeous wildflower hike and advised me to go "NOW until leaf out". That did it. It was like dropping lighted matches in an empty gas tank. I packed my stuff for a backpacking trip and practically beat the door down trying to get out on the trail.

I had visions of finding pygmy pipes, twinleaf, and all sorts of magnificent wildflowers of the early season new to me! It didn't matter to me that the forecast was for rain that day and the next. It didn't matter that I'd just worked the weekend sick and been to the doctor with bronchitis on Monday. This was Wednesday afternoon and I was stoked up and also buzzing with energy from the cortisone shot the doctor had given me. I was determined! I had gotten a late start, but was going to work on my 900 Miler goal and find me some wildflowers. I moved along at a fast clip to be certain I could make it to my campsite before dark. My daughter and son were both unhappy with me for going when I was still coughing and with barely enough day left to make my goal. I did stop at the last open spot on Ace Gap Trail and used my cell phone to call Kenny to let him know where I was and that I was going to make it fine. He wasn't thrilled, but what was he to do at that point?

I did make it to campsite three by Hesse Creek and was able to make camp and prepare dinner before dark. I got everything ready for the next day and hit the sack. It wasn't a total failure. I got to sleep by the soft murmur of Hesse Creek. The rain tapping down on my tent and the wind blowing all through the night while I was warm and dry in my sleeping bag. I had time to lay up and read a little before I slept. The next morning the rain quit long enough for me to eat breakfast and break camp in the dry! I started out on Beard Cane Creek Trail hoping for flowers despite my own better sense that it was probably still too early even for this elevation.

Beard Cane Creek Trail is a beautiful, nearly straight trough between Beard Cane and Hatcher mountains. It will be a wildflower paradise in a couple weeks and I will surely go back.
Today however......... all I saw was a rue anemone now and then. It was a lesson learned the hard way. I was far too early. The rain began again and I trekked the miles past emerging but not yet blooming wildflowers galore. The motivated hiker can look forward to an abundance of trout lilies, spring beauties, rue anemone, hepaticas, toadshade trilliums, persistent trilliums, catesbys trilliums, wild geraniums, foam flower, and in late April/ early May.. gay wings.

So I will make this trip again.... working twice as hard to see the flowers than I'd have to if I'd been sensible. I should have considered my friend's tip in the context of the current season, but I let my enthusiasm bowl me over. I got blisters and wet and didn't see much for my trouble, but I learned a lesson I hope I don't have to repeat.

Beard Cane Creek Trail on a rainy day. This area will burst into flower in a few weeks.

Deep dark and mysterious Beard Cane Creek Trail. It takes its name from the native cane that grows here. I thought from the name it might look like Saigon, but I saw hardly any arundinaria gigantea.

Surprises Waiting Up Rush Branch

I decided to try again to see some Spring flowers where there were waterfalls. I had checked out Chestnuttop Trail and there were a few so I came up with another plan. I would try a trail near that one to see what I could find?! I hadn't been up the Rush Branch Manway in several years. It has history, a pretty stream, and a small waterfall. It is lower in elevation than Chestnut Top so I said a little prayer and set off this past Monday morning. The weather was glorious! The sun was shining. I woke to birds singing outside my bedroom window.
The sky was clear and blue. The air was sweet. Redbud trees were blooming and the trees were taking on that faint pea green haze I love. I parked the jeep at the entrance sign for the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and walked back past the old stone wall along the creek.
I was pleased to find a couple trilliums up and opening their petals a little bit. I passed an old stone trout pond covered in moss. I continued up the stream and saw along the banks of this pretty creek a few pale lavender long spurred violets, rue anemone, and bishops cap! This trail is wonderful for having lots of bishops cap. Foam flower will be in bloom here in about 10 days and there will be lots of toadshade trilliums. I continued and found the slopes below Believer Falls lined with white wake robin, trillium flexipes, and sweet white trillium! It was a sight for sore eyes! I was in my seventh heaven in the midst of all these pretty things. The falls was flowing decently and I had the entire place to myself. The solitude and sunshine creeping down the head of the hollow was exactly what I needed today. It more than made up for the disappointments and hard lessons of the previous week. A hike back Rush Branch is simple and gives a novice to off trail hiking a chance to learn and be successful at it. Wildflowers, history, solitude, and a pretty little waterfall are the motivators for this hike. Remnants of pioneer life can be seen along this path which is short and relatively easy.

Slopes strewn with trilliums

Bent Trillium or Trillium flexipes

Believer Falls on Rush Branch, GSMNP

Early Spring Finds in White Oak Sinks

I went to visit White Oak Sinks only once last year and it was earlier than I'd ever visited before. I usually go several times, and spread the visits out to see different things blooming. Last year I went early for the first edition of Botanical Bliss and didn't return for one reason or another. I did read another ladies blog entry describing the trampling and destruction of uncaring people in White Oak Sinks. I noticed today my visit would hit even earlier in the season than last year. I wondered if I'd be disappointed? I headed out Schoolhouse Gap Trail and was pleased to see a Virginia pennywort by the path. They are inconspicuous so look closely to see them. Schoolhouse Gap Trail is a horse use trail and the trailhead often has lots of manure and mud. I encountered something new at the spot where the White Oak Sinks manway begins.

Check out the attractive, newly installed horse stile! This is designed to prevent folks from being able to ride their horses into White Oak Sinks.

I was doing a happy dance both as I went in the stile and came out!

I am not a fan of horses in the park and most especially not in a fragile, unique area like White Oak Sinks.

I saw quite an assortment of people today on this trip.
I found one man sitting on a log by Schoolhouse Gap trail and by him a person lay on their back in the middle of the trail. It isn't a difficult trail so I am not sure what was wrong there. It turned out to be a woman and I suppose she was taking a rest break? I also encountered a couple in the sixty something age group coming out of the sinks area. They were near another newly installed sign that reads "Fragile Area. Stay on the Path"
They took a breather and looked at the sign and then before I could even say hi read the sign to me and remarked " What fragile area are they talking about? What's so special about this place?" I explained that White Oak Sinks the entire area is biologically fragile and outlined the general boundaries for them and told them this spot was unique in the park and in the world! They were not impressed and quickly left. They could not see the beauty of it at this time of year.

I ran into a group of three fun ladies from Maryville near the Blow Hole Cave. Connie, Rita, and Carolyn were out hiking and had come here for their first visit ever.
They were not sure where the waterfall was so I led them over to see it and helped them identify a few wildflowers. I shared with them that they were here very early and that they should come back about the third week of April and visit again to see it at the peak bloom. They probably will since unlike that first couple these ladies were open minded and already had found some of the beauty and wonder of this place! Folks like these ladies are a joy to be around.

The valley floor was mostly bare, but turning green. The spice bush was budding out pale yellow green and I crushed a bud to inhale its pungent smell. The lack of leaves on the trees gives one a greater appreciation for the geology down here. The cliffs and rocks so bare now will be draped with vines and flowers soon. I turned to my left at the Blow Hole Cave and walked the path to the second hog trap on the valley floor. Near an old settlers road and the path to the Bluebell Hole I found something new. I found slopes covered in sunny yellow trout lilies! In all my visits I had not come early enough to catch these out so it was a delight!
They are numerous, easy to spot, easy to photograph and large in size. The only place I've seen bigger trout lilies was up on Miry Ridge. The blue phlox was barely out,but even so I could catch its heady fragrance now and then. Two weeks from now the valley floor will come alive with the little green umbrellas of mayapple, purple phlox, white violets, and other beautiful things. White shooting stars and bluebells are some more wonders to be found here in Spring.

I turned aside and climbed a small knoll to visit the grave marker of Abraham Law, an early settler buried here. I sat down by his final resting place and enjoyed an orange and took in the views of the valley floor below me. I wondered if he had lived here or if he was buried here because he loved this place or maybe both?

Last but not least I visited the waterfall that drops into Rainbow Cave. It was not flowing especially strong today, but it is always pretty and peaceful. There was no one down here now but me. I stood on the log by the falls and could see the prettiest rainbow in the waterfall.
It was a fine day to be out in the Smokies and I was glad I came even if it was not peak wildflower season yet.

Trout Lily in White Oak Sinks

Waterfall in White Oak Sinks

Bonus Wildflowers

I drove back toward home very leisurely and I was glad I was not hurrying or I
would have missed another something pretty today! I spotted something hot pink beside the base of the gray cliffs along Laurel Creek Road. I pulled over at the next safe spot and walked back with the camera to see this:

Wild Bleeding Hearts or Dicentra eximia

I hope you will get out there and see what is blooming in our area. Those who live in other places who may read this........ I hope you'll get to visit. If not.. I hope you'll avail yourself of the beauty around you in your own area.

Tips for Sharing the Trail and Wildflower Etiquette

I hate to be a buzz kill, but I have seen some things the past couple weeks that
no one should see on their hike. I am posting these few reminders in the hopes that folks will do their utmost to keep the forests and trails pretty for all of us.

Bathroom Breaks on the Trail--if you have a nature call on the trail it isn't a big deal. Find a spot suitably private away from the trail and any water sources.
If you have to take the Dump du Jour in the woods....... so be it. Dig a "cat hole" and cover everything up. Please don't leave toilet paper blossoms for anyone to have to see no matter if you do number 1 or number 2.

That Time of the Month-- Dealing with it on the trail. Ladies.. if you are having your monthly in the woods.. no worries. Carry along some kleenex, your sanitary supplies, and a small plastic grocery sack. Do not leave any evidence of your hygiene or lack of it.... in the forest or on the trail for others to deal with. I saw a disgusting mess at Gold Mine Gap and I was appalled.

Leave No Trace Ethics when Backpacking or Hiking
Don't leave evidence of your food, drink, or belongings in the forest for anyone who comes after you. If you packed it in.... you can pack it out.
I have never been to Abrams Falls that I didn't see orange peelings in the rocks around the falls! It is no heavier to carry out than it was to carry in.
Don't be a slob.

Take only photos and memories.
Don't pick the wildflowers or dig them up!

Don't take your dog along unless it is in an area where pets are permitted.

Horses in the Park-- I am not a fan, but it is not against the law.
Horse riders....... keep your animals on the parts of the trails they are allowed to be on and out of fragile areas including away from the root systems of trees!

Photographers and All folks watch carefully where you put your feet and set up your camera equipment. These areas are delicate and need to be protected against us and our clumsiness! It helps keep things nice for the next person to come along behind us if we use care.

Enjoy a beautiful season of wildflowers !