Fjord Norway – Nature at its spectacular best
Monday, 14. July 2008, 18:46:45
In terms of sheer natural beauty, there are few more impressive places than the south west of Norway i.e. Fjord Norway. The narrow waterways surrounded by steep cliffs, towering mountains and beautiful waterfalls show us just what the awesome forces of nature are capable of. It’s no surprise then that the Norwegian fjords as exemplified by Naeroyfjord and Geiranjerfjord, were rated by National Geographic magazine as the best and most sustainable of the UNESCO world heritage sites. But what exactly is a “fjord” and how were these natural wonders formed? Wikipedia defines a fjord as “A long, narrow estuary with steep sides, made when a glacial valley is flooded by the sea”. Most of these valleys were formed in the ice ages when the glaciers were much larger than today and the sea level lower. These valleys were in later periods flooded by the sea
There are several ways to enjoy the pristine beauty of the fjords. Peak summer i.e. July and August are the best times to visit, but if you are looking for a bargain, accommodation may be much cheaper in May or September. Pensioners and older people often take cruises through the fjords and camp at scenic locations such as Flåm. Round trips are offered from Oslo and Bergen which combine a fjord cruise with train and bus travel through interesting terrain. However it is the young, active and adventurous, who really come in to their own here. The activities on offer are numerous – trekking, bicycling, glacier hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing and more. From the relatively easy cycling routes suitable for kids to hard mountain climbing, the fjords cater to a wide variety of fitness and skill levels. Read on for the story of our 10 day visit to the Fjords.
Bergen as seen from Mt Floyen
We flew in to Bergen- the city known as the “Gateway to the Fjords”. As we landed, we got a nice view of the city from the air and the cut-up coastline with several islands and narrow waterways, so typical of western Norway. Bergen means “meadow among mountains” and is so-called because of the seven hills that surround the city. Soon after we arrived; we went up the “fløibanen” funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen towering 350 m over the city. The view of the city and the coastline from up here is impressive and there is a nice restaurant where one can sit down and drink a beer or have a bite.
The next morning, our foray into the fjords began. The Sognefjord – the longest of the Norwegian fjords was to be our base for the next few days. From Bergen, we traveled by train to Myrdal and then down the famous Flåm railway to the little town of Flåm at the end of the fjord. The 20 km train ride has a 650 m high difference and provides views of tall waterfalls, steep mountains and deep ravines. We also met a couple of adventurous Dutchmen who cycled up the steep path that the train travels. At the bottom of the train ride is the idyllic village of Flåm on the banks of the Aurlandsfjord, one of the arms of the Sognefjord. Flåm is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Norway and features on several round trip fjord tours. There is also a big camping site here where numerous caravans can be seen. Tourists from all over the world are here, with especially large numbers of Dutchmen, Germans and Spaniards. Flåm has a nice small beach with a spectacular view of the Aurlandsfjord, but the water is almost never warm enough to swim in.
Flåm on the shores of the Aurlandsfjord
Something that you should not miss is the world heritage cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen through Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord which are the narrowest and most spectacular arms of the Sognefjord. The sheer rock faces with resplendent waterfalls surrounding the narrow waterway best exemplify the magical aura of the fjords. We were lucky to have good weather and everyone aboard the ferry had a camera in hand to capture some of the spectacular views for posterity. Well who can blame them? We also saw a couple of small settlements at the foot of the mountainsides whose only contact with the outside world is through ferries such as the one on which we were travelling. The cruise terminates at Gudvangen, where the Naeroy River with its crystal clear water flows into the fjord. Gudvangen was a viking village and a small viking house has been recreated here for the tourists to relive the atmosphere.
The World Heritage cruise - Naeroyfjord
Our next port of call was the town of Sogndal, which is one of the major towns of the Sognefjord and has a much less touristy feel than Flåm or Gudvangen. We chose to stay here since it is well connected by bus and boat to the mountains and glaciers in the Sognefjord area. We traveled from Sogndal to Fjaerland and then undertook a quite challenging 3 hour trek up to the Flatbrett cabin. This trek starts just above sea level near the Fjaerlandfjord and goes up to this self-service cabin situated at a height of 1000 m at the foot of the Flatbreen glacier. Despite the rainy weather, the view along the trekking path and from the cabin was truly spectacular. You see from an elevation the narrow fjord and the tall surrounding mountains. This trek requires a reasonable amount of fitness and is not suitable for small children.
Fjaerlandfjord as seen from the Flatbrett cabin
Having seen the glaciers from afar, we decided we wanted to take a closer look and decided to do a two hour guided glacier trek at the Nigards glacier which is also easily accessible by bus from Sogndal. It was an interesting experience walking with spikes on the hard glacier ice and was surprisingly easy. We were repeatedly warned though, that the glaciers had treacherous crevices and that this should not be attempted without experienced guides. Treks of various difficulty levels lasting between one and three hours are offered and the easier treks are also suitable for small children.
Guided glacier trek
Having had a most interesting time at the Sognefjord, we headed southwards to Stavanger and the Lysefjord. Stavanger is the oil capital of Norway and therefore a very important and rich city. But what brings me and a hundred thousand tourists here every summer is the majestic Prekestolen or Pulpit’s Rock. The Prekestolen is a rock that is almost perfectly flat and square at the top which falls vertically 600 m to the Lysefjord below. To get to the top of this rock, you need to trek about 2-3 hours from a nearby cabin through rocky terrain. It is a reasonably challenging walk through rocky terrain, but the view from up above of the Lysefjord and the surrounding rocky terrain is absolutely out of this world. I would not recommend this to you if you’ve got a fear of heights though!! There were several other tourists walking with us and once we got to the top, a few courageous ones even lay down head forwards and peered over the edge of the Prekestolen. It was the pictures of Prekestolen that convinced me that I just had to go to Norway and they may well do the same to you. The Prekestolen was definitely the high point of our trip to Norway and one of the most impressive sights, I’ve ever seen.
Prekestolen or “Pulpit Rock”
Soon after this surreal experience, it was time for us to pack our bags and say goodbye to Norway. We could not trek to the other spectacular view point in the Lysefjord namely Kjerag. Kjerag is a narrow rock, just big enough for two people to stand on, wedged between two cliffs and hanging a 1000m above the Lysefjord. However, the impact that Norway made on me was so strong that I’m definitely going to be back sooner rather than later. And to think, I still haven’t seen the midnight sun!!
There are several ways to enjoy the pristine beauty of the fjords. Peak summer i.e. July and August are the best times to visit, but if you are looking for a bargain, accommodation may be much cheaper in May or September. Pensioners and older people often take cruises through the fjords and camp at scenic locations such as Flåm. Round trips are offered from Oslo and Bergen which combine a fjord cruise with train and bus travel through interesting terrain. However it is the young, active and adventurous, who really come in to their own here. The activities on offer are numerous – trekking, bicycling, glacier hiking, kayaking, mountain climbing and more. From the relatively easy cycling routes suitable for kids to hard mountain climbing, the fjords cater to a wide variety of fitness and skill levels. Read on for the story of our 10 day visit to the Fjords.
Bergen as seen from Mt Floyen
We flew in to Bergen- the city known as the “Gateway to the Fjords”. As we landed, we got a nice view of the city from the air and the cut-up coastline with several islands and narrow waterways, so typical of western Norway. Bergen means “meadow among mountains” and is so-called because of the seven hills that surround the city. Soon after we arrived; we went up the “fløibanen” funicular to the top of Mount Fløyen towering 350 m over the city. The view of the city and the coastline from up here is impressive and there is a nice restaurant where one can sit down and drink a beer or have a bite.
The next morning, our foray into the fjords began. The Sognefjord – the longest of the Norwegian fjords was to be our base for the next few days. From Bergen, we traveled by train to Myrdal and then down the famous Flåm railway to the little town of Flåm at the end of the fjord. The 20 km train ride has a 650 m high difference and provides views of tall waterfalls, steep mountains and deep ravines. We also met a couple of adventurous Dutchmen who cycled up the steep path that the train travels. At the bottom of the train ride is the idyllic village of Flåm on the banks of the Aurlandsfjord, one of the arms of the Sognefjord. Flåm is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Norway and features on several round trip fjord tours. There is also a big camping site here where numerous caravans can be seen. Tourists from all over the world are here, with especially large numbers of Dutchmen, Germans and Spaniards. Flåm has a nice small beach with a spectacular view of the Aurlandsfjord, but the water is almost never warm enough to swim in.
Flåm on the shores of the Aurlandsfjord
Something that you should not miss is the world heritage cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen through Aurlandsfjord and Naeroyfjord which are the narrowest and most spectacular arms of the Sognefjord. The sheer rock faces with resplendent waterfalls surrounding the narrow waterway best exemplify the magical aura of the fjords. We were lucky to have good weather and everyone aboard the ferry had a camera in hand to capture some of the spectacular views for posterity. Well who can blame them? We also saw a couple of small settlements at the foot of the mountainsides whose only contact with the outside world is through ferries such as the one on which we were travelling. The cruise terminates at Gudvangen, where the Naeroy River with its crystal clear water flows into the fjord. Gudvangen was a viking village and a small viking house has been recreated here for the tourists to relive the atmosphere.
The World Heritage cruise - Naeroyfjord
Our next port of call was the town of Sogndal, which is one of the major towns of the Sognefjord and has a much less touristy feel than Flåm or Gudvangen. We chose to stay here since it is well connected by bus and boat to the mountains and glaciers in the Sognefjord area. We traveled from Sogndal to Fjaerland and then undertook a quite challenging 3 hour trek up to the Flatbrett cabin. This trek starts just above sea level near the Fjaerlandfjord and goes up to this self-service cabin situated at a height of 1000 m at the foot of the Flatbreen glacier. Despite the rainy weather, the view along the trekking path and from the cabin was truly spectacular. You see from an elevation the narrow fjord and the tall surrounding mountains. This trek requires a reasonable amount of fitness and is not suitable for small children.
Fjaerlandfjord as seen from the Flatbrett cabin
Having seen the glaciers from afar, we decided we wanted to take a closer look and decided to do a two hour guided glacier trek at the Nigards glacier which is also easily accessible by bus from Sogndal. It was an interesting experience walking with spikes on the hard glacier ice and was surprisingly easy. We were repeatedly warned though, that the glaciers had treacherous crevices and that this should not be attempted without experienced guides. Treks of various difficulty levels lasting between one and three hours are offered and the easier treks are also suitable for small children.
Guided glacier trek
Having had a most interesting time at the Sognefjord, we headed southwards to Stavanger and the Lysefjord. Stavanger is the oil capital of Norway and therefore a very important and rich city. But what brings me and a hundred thousand tourists here every summer is the majestic Prekestolen or Pulpit’s Rock. The Prekestolen is a rock that is almost perfectly flat and square at the top which falls vertically 600 m to the Lysefjord below. To get to the top of this rock, you need to trek about 2-3 hours from a nearby cabin through rocky terrain. It is a reasonably challenging walk through rocky terrain, but the view from up above of the Lysefjord and the surrounding rocky terrain is absolutely out of this world. I would not recommend this to you if you’ve got a fear of heights though!! There were several other tourists walking with us and once we got to the top, a few courageous ones even lay down head forwards and peered over the edge of the Prekestolen. It was the pictures of Prekestolen that convinced me that I just had to go to Norway and they may well do the same to you. The Prekestolen was definitely the high point of our trip to Norway and one of the most impressive sights, I’ve ever seen.
Prekestolen or “Pulpit Rock”
Soon after this surreal experience, it was time for us to pack our bags and say goodbye to Norway. We could not trek to the other spectacular view point in the Lysefjord namely Kjerag. Kjerag is a narrow rock, just big enough for two people to stand on, wedged between two cliffs and hanging a 1000m above the Lysefjord. However, the impact that Norway made on me was so strong that I’m definitely going to be back sooner rather than later. And to think, I still haven’t seen the midnight sun!!
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