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Hiking in the Smokies

Day Hiker's Guide to all the Trails in the Smoky Mountains

Davenport Gap to Mt Cammerer - May 20, 2009

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Five of us started at Davenport Gap, on the Appalachian Trail (AT) at 10 AM Wednesday, May 20. It was an absolutely gorgeous day, full sun, and blue skies without a cloud. We hiked at a fairly steady pace, but going in this direction, you climb 3000 ft in 6 miles, so we tended to stop frequently. It was a very enjoyable,although strenuous, hike. We saw a few new wildflowers that we hadn't seen on previous hikes this spring, including bluebead lily (Clintonia borealis) and the speckled wood lily, or white Clintonia (we had seen just a few of these latter hiking to Charlies Bunion a few weeks earlier). A new flower to me was puttyroot - I just spotted 2 stalks of purplish brown flowers several feet off the trail, and managed to zoom in on them for a not so hot photo (see photo album for this hike).

There were just a few Mountain laurel in bloom, but no rhododendrons yet. We were hoping to see some flame azalea, but were diappointed.

There were many, many spent Vaseys trilliums at the lower elevations, and just a few Trillium erectum still blooming up near Mt Cammerer. We saw a lot of large Solomons seal still blooming, as well as some huge Solomons plume, a few big clumps of foamflower in bloom, and a couple of trailing arbutus with blooms (these were on really shady banks).

We were surprised to pass quite a few through hikers on the AT, perhaps as many as 10 all told, as well as several other people section hiking. They are getting a late start, as most seem to pass through the Smokies mid- to late April.

We were rewarded for the climb to Cammerer and the tower, as the clear skies held, and the views were spectacular. On the way down from the peak, we were startled by a huge black rattlesnake that must have been sunning on a rock. Luckily, we heard his rattle, and he slithered off into the woods before we got too close.

We had a leisurely lunch and rest stop, and headed back down the trail at 3 PM. A late start, but we made good time going down, and got down in just over 2 1/2 hours. A great day to be hiking.

Newfound Gap to Kephart Prong - Hiking into Spring - April 29, 2009

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Our group of 5 hiked from Newfound Gap in the Smoky Mountains to Charlies Bunion, down Dry Sluice and Grassy Branch to Kephart Prong and the road. We had dropped a car at the Kephart trailhead in the morning. There is a new signpost at Newfound Gap, giving the distance to Katahdin, Maine. We saw several through hikers at Charlies Bunion.

It was a neat wildflower hike, as we saw early March flowers all along the AT to Charlies Bunion, then "walked into April" as we got into lower elevations. The hillsides all along the AT were blanketed in Carolina spring beauty, with masses of trout lilies blooming on sunny banks. I thought it odd that we never saw the intermediate wildflowers, like bloodroot, rue anemone, trilliums, etc. We did see bead lily just coming up, as well as some monkshood, and lots of small turkscap lily foliage. A few clumps of false heliobore were just coming up (I consider these to be late spring flowers at lower elevations). Click on "photos" above for the pictures I took on this hike.

On Dry Sluice we found sunny banks just covered in trailing arbutus, in full bloom, a big surprise given how late it is in April. As we turned down Grassy Branch, we began to see what I consider early April bloomers at lower elevations: Trillium erectum, T. grandflorum, star chickweed. There was a lot of brook lettuce blooming by the streams we crossed, as well as monkshood about to bloom. We never saw T. luteum the entire hike. A large section of Grassy Branch had been swept away, apparently from some big rock slides, and it was a bit difficult to get past that section.

As expected, on Kephart Prong we saw some large masses of T. grandiflorum and T. erectum, as well as several nice big clumps of painted trillium (T. undulatum). Wild phlox was in full bloom, and wild geranium was just beginning to bloom.

Our big disappointment for the day was that we couldn't find the place along Newfound Gap Road where the huge clumps of yellow ladyslippers have always been found. To our dismay, it looked like the area had been mowed and bushhogged recently, and possibly backfilled. We did see a few yellow ladyslippers blooming along Little River Road, as well as enormous crossvines hanging down from trees along the road.

Piney River trail - wildflower hike, April 22, 2009

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We did this hike last year on April 23, and it was one of the best wildflower hikes we've done. This year, however, there was not the variety or quantity of flowers we saw last year. It seemed to be a little early for the gaywings - although we saw hundreds, they just weren't as abundant as in 2008. There seemed to be many still in bud, and they are so small, that perhaps they just weren't obvious. We also saw only a few blooming buckeyes (yellow and red) compared to 2008. The photo album for Piney River 2009 shows photos of a few of the flowers we saw this past week. You can also look at the album for Piney River 2008 for more pictures.

The Trillium sulcatum was in full bloom, and gorgeous; T. grandiflorum were abundant, but almost finished. I did see several Shuttleworth's ginger, a plant I had never seen before. Spring beauty and rue anemone were still in bloom, enforcing my thoughts that it was still a little early in the Cumberlands

There was a lot of water in Piney River, and the falls and cascades were full of water and beautiful. A map of the Piney River trail can be found at: http://www.cumberlandtrail.org/piney.html

Porters Creek trail - Wildflower Hike - April 15, 2009

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Six of us hiked Porters Creek this past week, and although it was a cold and overcast day, we weren't disappointed. We saw all of the early spring bloomers, save Bloodroot, as well as many others (see Photo Album). The hillsides were covered with fringed phacelia, although I estimated they were about 60% finished. The fact that Porters Creek was covered with snow the week before most certainly added to the early climax for the Phacelia. Trillium luteum, T. grandflorum, and T. erectum were all in full bloom, with many large displays of them. We saw just a few showy orchis, several in bud on the hike in that were open by the time we hiked out. Just a few dwarf crested iris blooming, but many buds.

I saw more dwarf ginseng than I ever remember - years ago when I first hiked Porters Creek, they were mostly in abundance on the trail just before Fern Falls, but now I saw them from start to finish all along the trail. I was surprised at how many wildflowers were blooming along the upper part of the trail past Fern Falls - it is up over 3000 feet, so we saw trout lily (finished at the lower elevations), rue anemone, one hepatica in bloom, and all the trilliums.

At Fern Falls, I saw the one lone jack-in-the-pulpit for the day. Looking a little cold. There were quite a few wood anemones also, but they never perked up and really opened.

Finley Cane wildflowers

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Last week, April 8, 7 of us decided to hike the West Prong/Bote Mt/Finley Cane/Turkey Pen Ridge loop, coming out at Schoolhouse Gap. I thought that since the hike was mostly between 1500-2000 feet that we would see a lot of spring wildflowers. We did see a good variety on Finley Cane trail (see photo album), but little on the others. Most of the early bloomers were evident: rue anemone, bloodroot (almost finished), hepatica (almost finished), wood anemone (just beginning), yellow trillium, a few little brown jug plants, pennywort, a few Bishop's cap, and blue cohosh just beginning to bloom. We saw little else but a few violets just starting to bloom. All in all, it was a pretty disappointing wildflower hike, but it was a gorgeous day, sunny and warm, and we had a great hike.

Spring has almost arrived in the Great Smoky Mountains

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Last week, Wednesday March 18, we hiked Scott Mountain trail in the Smoky's from it's junction with Schoolhouse Gap (2000 ft) to it's junction with Crooked Arm (3400 ft), and back. We saw some early wildflowers blooming, but none in profusion. We saw bloodroot, spring beauty, toothwort, hepatica, and trailing arbutus. This past week, March 25, I walked up the first 1/4 mile of Chestnut Top trail, and saw the above as well as chickweed blooming, and yellow trillium, T. grandiflorum, phacelia, and stonecrop in bud. In this next week, if it doesn't get too cold this weekend, there should be lots of wildflowers popping out, especially below 2500 ft. Look at the photo album for Scott Mountain to see the early bloomers we saw on that hike last week.

Music of the Mountains, Saturday, March 28

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Music of the Mountains is a festival of musical traditions of the southern Appalachian Mountains, showcasing the evolution of mountain music over time. This year's concert is part of the 75th Anniversary celebration of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Musicians will include Dr. Ted Olson on the origins of Appalachian mountain music, Tony Thomas on a variety of stringed instruments, the claw hammer banjo and old-time fiddle styles of Matt Morelock and Brian Vollmer, the string band ensemble of Roger Howell from Mars Hill, NC, and perennial favorites Boogertown Gap and the Lost Mill String Band. More information is available at www.greatsmokies75th.org.

Performances will be Saturday, March 28, at Sugarlands Visitor Center from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. and are free to the public. Seating in the theater at Sugarlands is limited to 160 persons per concert, and is on a first come, first served basis. Call (865)436-1291 for details.

Schedule of theater performances:

10:00 AM Lost Mill String Band
11:00 AM Tony Thomas
12:00 PM Dr. Ted Olson
1:00 PM Boogertown Gap
2:00 -4:00 PM Matt Morelock and Brian Vollmer (two 45 minute sets)
4:00 PM Roger Howell and Friends

75th Anniversary celebration - Outdoor Concert in Cades Cove June 13

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As part of Great Smoky Mountains 75th anniversary celebration, the Knoxville
Symphony Orchestra (KSO) will perform pop and light classical compositions during a 90-minute outdoor concert in Cades Cove on June 13, beginning at 3 p.m. Some favorites will include The Star Spangled Banner, Overture to The Cowboys, Beautiful Dreamer, Ashokan Farewell, America the Beautiful, selections from Sound of Music and more.

A vehicle pass will be required to attend the concert. Vehicle passes will go on sale tomorrow,
Saturday, March 28, at 9 a.m., and then again on Monday-Friday, March 30-April 3
between 9 a.m. – 5 p.m. until all passes are sold. Passes can only be purchased by calling
the KSO Box Office at 865/291-3310. Only two passes will be issued per person. The
cost of the pass is $25 for vehicles with up to a 15-passenger capacity and $50 for
vehicles with a capacity of greater than 15. Friends of the Smokies, who are sponsoring the event, will donate a portion of the sales to the Park.

Note that the vehicle pass, along with a receipt, will be mailed by the ticket office
and both are required for admission. These two items must be clearly displayed on the
driver’s side of the dashboard BEFORE entering the national park.

Cades Cove is located on the western end of the national park in Blount County near
Townsend, Tennessee. Historic cabins, farmhouses and churches that date from the 19th
and 20th Centuries are maintained in Cades Cove. The concert will be held in a large
open grassy field/meadow adjacent to the Cades Cove Visitor Center at Cable Mill,
located half way around the 11-mile one way Cades Cove Loop Road.

More information regarding amenities, parking, etc. can be found at www.greatsmokies75th.org

Access to the Symphony area will open at 10 a.m. and it is recommended that you arrive early.
All pass holders are encouraged to fill each seat in their vehicle. 1,500 vehicle passes will be issued with an estimated number of attendees expected at between 4,000 and 6,000.

The Cades Cove Loop Road to Hyatt Lane will be open from sunrise (around 6:30 a.m.) to 12 p.m for non-concert traffic. The Saturday morning bicycle closure will be cancelled. The far west end of the Cove will be closed at Hyatt Lane (the second crossroad) and motorists and bicyclists will be directed across the valley to exit Cades Cove. The detour will shorten the length of the trip to an 8-mile tour of Cades Cove. The Hyatt Lane bypass will eliminate access to the Cades Cove Visitor Center and Cable Mill area as well as the several trailheads located on the western end of Cades Cove. At 12 p.m., general access to Cades Cove will be terminated at the Townsend Wye near Townsend.

NOTE TO HIKERS:
All the trails on the western end of Cades Cove will be closed on Saturday, June 13, as they are located beyond the Hyatt Lane closure.
Trails along Laurel Creek Road – No access after 12 p.m, June 13.
Trails in the Tremont area - No access after 12 p.m, June 13.

75th Anniversary of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park

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It's been a long time since I've posted to this blog. After an incredibly dry summer in East Tennessee, there were next to no wildflowers blooming in the Smokies this fall. So, although I hiked, I had nothing to post.

However, I'd like to make people aware of the 75th Anniversary celebration for the Great Smoky Mountains that kicked off this January, 2009. The official website, updated regularly, is GreatSmokies75th.org. This interactive site is updated regularly to
provide the public with the most current activities. There are several special features, including the Historical Timeline, and the Smokies Family Album where people can upload photos and share Smokies experiences.

There are several public events scheduled commemorating the anniversary. The first will be Friday, April 24, 2009. This will be a media event to deliver Governor’s Proclamations from Tennessee and North Carolina, and will be held at Clingmans Dome. The event during National Park Week will focus on the state and local support that was key to the creation of the Park. For this event Clingmans Dome Road will be
closed and only invited guests, local municipalities, and state and federal officials, will be involved.

Local events are posted and described in detail on the GreatSmokies75th web site. These include:

Townsend Winter Heritage Festival, Feb 5-8, 2009. This event will be held all day and evening at the Townsend Visitor Center, and celebrates the cultural heritage of the region with walks, talks, classes, entertainment, and more (the GreatSmokies75th.org website gives more detail about this event).

A Townsend Love Affair, Feb 13-15, held throughout Townsend. There will be local artisans displaying and selling their crafts, music, dancing, etc (TownsendVisitorCenter.com ; gsmheritagecenter.org).

Insight of the Smokies - a juried art show, Feb 6 - Mar 1. This show will be held at the Art Market Gallery, 422 S. Gay Street in downtown Knoxville. Gallery hours can be found at ArtMarketGallery.net.

Mapping the Mountains: The Photographs of George Masa. Held Feb 6 - June 7 at the Asheville Art Museum, at 2 Southpack Square in Asheville, North Carolina.

Additionally, walking tours of both Townsend and Elkmont will be held by the Little River Railroad and Lumber Company Museum on the 4th Saturday of every month this year. These are short (less than a mile) walks showing the locations of structures and rail lines with a brief description of railroad and lumbering activities in these 2 areas of the Smokies. Walks will begin at 10 AM, meeting at the Little River Railroad Museum in Townsend, and last 1-1.5 hours. More information can be found at littleriverrailroad.org.

Stay tuned for future local and commemorative events.

Schoolhouse Gap Road and Trail - June 7, 2008

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A friend and I decided to hike up the gravel extension of Schoolhouse Gap Road near Townsend, TN, to the intersection of Scott Mountain and Schoolhouse Gap trails in the Smoky Mountains. Our intent was to hike Scott Mountain Trail to Crooked Arm Trail and back, but after about 3/4 mile, the trail became overgrown, and there was so much poison ivy we decided to abort. We turned around and hiked Schoolhouse Gap Trail to Laurel Creek Road and back to the gap. It has been extremely dry, and we saw very few wildflowers. We had hoped to see Indian Pinks in profusion, but saw very few. The rhododendrons had just begun blooming, and the Mountain Laurel was almost finished. It was a disappointing hike as far as flowers go. Click on the "Photos" link above to see the pictures I took.