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a cönversation with matt haymes...
Back then there was something blowing inthe trade winds.something that would become huge. And because of it, today there are more surf shop per square foot in bali than anywhere else on the planet. In the pioneering days of the early 70's,bali was the place where you could find incridible waves, cheap digs and cheap food all in one beautiful,exotic,spiritual place it wasn't long surfers where scrambling to work out a way to stay in this tropical paradise forever. Making cloting was one way.
But more on the later
with an endless supply of surf tourist it was only just a metter of time before surfing became big business here. And business is exactly what surfing has become here. Because of us
surfing has good to the island of the gods with third generation balinese surf families enjoying a prosperous surfing life style that is the envy of the world.
But let's not forget that balinese kids have been riding the waves of kuta on woodem belly boards since the early nineteen hundreads. And that american hotolier robert koke introduced stand up surfing here in 1930.
The second world war put a slight pause ön things but surfing was always around.
The next wave, remarkably, were australian and american flight attendants testing the beach breaks and and the lefts at kuta reef in the late 1960's. Then inthe early 1970's,due to alby falzon's film masterpiece morning of the earth, came the next wave of surfers and with them the cameras and the surf magazines. Bali was now in full colour ön the big screen for the world to see.