V.T.R.Ravi Kumar

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Visiting Golden Temple and Wagah Border was one of my long times wishes and I did want to drive through the whole journey. But The distance from Delhi to Amritsar (450 Kms) was a real hurdle physically and Mentally for me to challenge.

One fine day back from my work at midnight around 1.00 AM (I usually work between 4 PM and 1 AM) we made a sudden plan to go somewhere for the weekend and I decided it would be Amritsar this time. within an hour we were all packed and I was busy taking screen shots from mapmyindia.com of few routes where I was not confident enough and by 2.00 AM in the night we left our home in Noida for Amritsar. My wife always promises not to sleep sitting near me while I drive but she can't help it and I can do nothing for that. Our route exiting delhi from north catching the National Highway 1 (NH1) GT Karnal Road. This is the oldest Highway built by Sher shah suri. I usually enjoy driving at the wee hours as I don't have to face much of the city traffic and I really like the sight of the roads lit during the night.

At early morning around 7.00 AM we were nearing Ludhiana by-pass and I had flat tyre.. Since I had not stopped anywhere in between I didn't mind the delay for about 45 mins due to this. After the tyre had been fixed for its puncture we continued our travel to reach Amritsar at 9 AM. It had took us 7 hrs for the the 450 km drive not a bad average.

Upon reaching Amritsar I was really very tired and found a hotel nearby the Golden temple and could not control my urge to sleep. Took a nap for 2-3 hrs and in the evening planned to visit the temple.


Golden Temple

The sight of the temple as we enter is so enchanting and no wonder it is the temple of highest order for the sikhs. Seated in between a man made square lake the golden temples shines with a beautiful reflection in the water. The person entering this complex is asked to cover the head with any piece of cloth as a mark of reverence and respect. Ladies usually use the loose end of saree or the dupatta while gents in not sikh with turbans usually have a hand kerchief to cover their head. The water is crystal clean with fishes visibly swimming inside it. Devotees flock the temple through out the day and visit this sacred place for Sikhs .

Sri Harmandir Sahib, also known as Sri Darbar Sahib or Golden Temple, (on account of its scenic beauty and golden coating for English speaking world), is named after Hari(God) the temple of God. The Sikhs all over the world, daily wish to pay visit to Sri Amritsar and to pay obeisance at Sri Harmandir Sahib in their Ardas.

Guru Arjan Sahib, the Fifth Nanak, conceived the idea of creating a central place of worship for the Sikhs and he himself designed the architecture of Sri Harmandir Sahib. Earlier the planning to excavate the holy tank (Amritsar or Amrit Sarovar ) was chalked out by Guru Amardas Sahib, the Third Nanak, but it was executed by Guru Ramdas Sahib under the supervision of Baba Budha ji. The land for the site was acquired by the earlier Guru Sahibs on payment or free of cost from the Zamindars (landlords) of native villages. The plan to establish a town settlement was also made. Therefore, the construction work on the Sarovar(the tank) and the town started simultaneously in 1570. The work on both projects completed in 1577 A.D.

Its architecture represents a unique harmony between the Muslims and the Hindus way of construction work and this is considered the best architectural specimens of the world. It is often quoted that this architecture has created an independent Sikh school of architecture in the history of art in India.


After Visiting this place the heart is so filled that you do not wish to go any other place but Wagah border was another charming place which I really wished to visit.

Wagah border

Wagah border is very near to Amritsar and this is the border which separates India and Pakistan. Wagah border the the place where during partition the muslims and hindu crossed over to go the country which they wished to live hereon. The most important thing to watch in this place is the daily ceremonial change of guards in the post. Soldier from both the sides march in such a way almost lifting their foot upto their head. This march is unique in its nature. Soldiers from both the countries posted here are very tall not less than 6 ft march towards each other the flag is brought down folded in such a fast manner and then it is retrieved back to the post. In the wagah border on both sides a stadium like arrangement has been made to allow the visitors to sit and watch this event during sunset. The drill is preceded with cultural events where people from both sides raise slogans to praise the country and school children perform to patriotic songs.

On the way back from Wagah to Amritsar a sign board that read Atari. Atari is the last station in Indian side between the rail route to Pakistan. Atari station has its historic importance to remind of the incidences during the partition. I thought it would be worth while to visit Atari too. The station now looks deserted with no person visiting here but its a place to watch.

(To be contd.)

Slow Traffic
Yesterday was my Wife's Birth Day and So as a sudden plan we thought of visiting Vrindavan and Mathura. I usually like driving in Early mornings (Start before 5 AM) because I can avoid the pesty traffic.But waking up early didnt sound good to my wife so we ended up in leaving our home at 8 AM and Guess what the whole Delhi on road.

Bad Roads
We managed to Enter Vrindavan just before noon and as soon as we entered the city we were greeted by bad Roads and Pot holes.I wish I could get hold of the the Govt official or the Politian responsible for this. Like in the old movies where the Dakku Sardar would drag the hero or his acquintance tied up to a horse . Would like to give a similar treatment to those guys responsible of Bad roads.

Slow Internet
And last not the least when I thought to pen this in a Blog had written all and after clicking submit button and waiting for quite some minute... POOF..everthing was gone. Thanks to my Slow connectivity which I was accessing through my Tata Indicom Data Card

I was the lucky few who made it the Amarnath during 2005. As the year next was bogged by rumors of artificial Shiv ling created and so on. 2007 also saw a short span with a very small shiv ling that did not last for long. And this year it has been due to the controversial land allotted for the Amarnath Shrine board and then reverting it.

(23-07-2005 to 29-07-2005)

One of my collegue from my previous organization had a plan of going to Amarnath and as always I was ready to accompany him. He had started from Bangalore and I joined him in Haridwar. We took a train till Jammu and rested there before starting our journey till Pahalgham. We were able to buy some seat in a Sumo that was leaving for Pahalgham and our journey was halted before Ananthnag by the Army as it was getting late in night and they made us stay for the night in a makeshift camp they had arranged in a FCI godown. We continued our journey next day morning and on reaching pahalgham took a bus to the final spot from where our Trekking to amarnath would start . The ascend to the Amarnath starts with a very steep note. this is discourage the weak heart not to continue only the strong one may proceed. The path till Amarnath cave is very hard and adding to that is the climatic conditions. The only determination that makes you to proceed is the will to see the Ice Ling and believe me when I tell it is really enchanting to have a look at the Cave . The sight of thousands of devoted people marching towards the shrine ignoring physical and mental pain is worth seeing. . We took bath in the freezing river below Amarnath Caves. And had the dharshan of Bhole Baba (Ice Shivlingh) and on our way back took the Baltal route. The Trek till baltal has steep ascends and descends. (Should be avoided if not physically fit/old/ or joint ailments. From Baltal we took a sumo to Srinagar. All though all the news channels might post a good normal image of Srinagar the actuall is not so. You will find a tense enviroment with Army vehicles all over and with a mood that looks like anything might occur in the next few minutes. We took some time sight seeing in and around Srinagar and then made our way back to Jammu. Our train from Jammu took us back to our respective home.

We started our trip around rajasthan from the land of holy people (Haridwar) where I belong to.

We left haridwar on 4th September 2004 at around 10 PM.
The mode of travel being my Santro Xing-XP.

Our route was

Day 1 (aprox 500 Km) - Haridwar - Delhi - Jaipur
Day 2 (aprox 330 Km) - Jaipur - Bikaner
Day 3 (aprox 330 Km) - Bikaner - Jaisalmer
Day 4 (aprox 300 Km) - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur
Day 5 (aprox 300 Km) - Jodhpur - Jaipur
Day 6 (aprox 260 Km) - Jaipur - Fatehpur Sikri- Agra
Day 7 (aprox 200 Km) - Agra - Delhi
Day 8 (aprox 200 Km) - Delhi - Haridwar

(Total distance travelled 3050 Kms)

In Rajasthan we stayed in RTDC Hotels. The hotel tariff where around Rs.600/Double room (With cooler). The hotels
were well maintained and are usually full during season (October onwards)

Day I Just Starting our Enjoyment

Our journey towards Jaipur via Delhi was the longest but the Toll Road from Delhi to Jaipur is superb. Requires just two and half hours for this distance. On reaching jaipur(10.30 PM) we found out the RTDC Hotel . There were two we chose TEEJ. The RTDC hotels are mostly situated near the Railway Station so could be found easily. Upon reaching we asked the desk clerk if he could arrange any guide we called the guide on his mobile and asked him to come the next day at 9.00.We had just time for a Beer (all RTDC hotels had Bar) and time to charge our mobiles and laptop.

Day II Fast track sight Seeing

The guide had bought his own Maruti omni in which he tooks us to visit. Birla Temple, Albert Hall, Amer Fort, Jal Mahal.

We had a Digital Camera , A laptop and a PDA . Since we had to leave for Bikaner and we knew that we would be in jaipur while returning we limited our site seeing and had our lunch and left for Bikaner at 4.00 PM. This road is also a very good road and could travel comfortably in 80 KM/Hr . We reached Bikaner at around 10.00 PM. The RTDC Hotel here is Dola Maru.

We checked in and then kept our mobiles, laptop and camera battery for charging while we ourselves got charged up by having beer.

Day III The best Part of our Journey
In bikaner we did not have much to see . But We had heard about the Rat Temple (Karni Mata Temple) in Deshnoke which is about 40 Kms from Bikaner. We left for deshnoke and were amazed to see the whole temple infested with rats. Rats had no fear for humans and we tried to hide our fear for them. It had already become 12 Noon so we had our lunch and left back for bikaner (to go to jaisalmer we had to come to bikaner) One the way we had a glimse of the Fort in Bikaner. On our way to jaisalmer we came across POKRAN (Hope every one knows it). The army does not allow any one near the main area where the nuclear testing was done so were contended of taking some photographs along the sign board which read pokran.
Our journey from bikaner to jaisalmer was the most exciting. The roads were very good with no traffic. Fully vacant roads with nothing but sand on both side.

Occationally some wild camels were seen nibling the high thorny leaves of desert trees. We had reached jaisalmer at 4.00 got a room in the RTDC restaurant Moomal. The restaurant desk clerk was good to
arrange for a guide immedietly we had to see the Sunset the same day. The sunset point is 40 Kms far from jaisalmer The place is known as SAM from where we would have to leave our car and take a camel back ride
the the sunset point (3 Kms) between sand dunes.view this site http://photos/yahoo.com/vtrrk for our photos in jaisalmer_Sunset point. The camel back ride was an different experiance. We reached the spot just in time and were able to enjoy the sunset. We came back to the hotel room did all the charging work of mobiles and ourselves and asked the guide to come early morning next day
at 8.00 AM and slept off.

Day IV Golden city
In jaisalmer there is an artificial lake where one could do boating. Then we visited the fort in jaisalmer and the Various temples in the fort. The temples and havelis in jaisalmer are built using golden coloured sand stone. The intrinsic carvings in these places are to be admired. The sand stones
give a golden gleam to city. We also visited the wood fossil park where fosillised tree which have been escavated here have been kept for display.

At around 2.00 PM we left jaisalmer for Jodhpur via Pokran. This route is also has very good roads but unlike the previous roads these roads are not straight but with lot of turns. We reached jodhpur by 7.00 pm took our room in the RTDC Restruarant Ghoomar. Nearby this place is the Nayee Sarak A market place with the
blend of both old and the new jodhpur city. We just had time to walk through the market and returned back to the room for a Beer.

Day V Hot Day
It was hot day and we had to visit the monument which was the chenotaph for the king . The big fort . The fort was a very big structure with many art effects in it.

The fort had the things used by the king. The fort has been a very good protective place and had been a strong fort of its time. It has only been captured 3 times.

There is an interesting story of the wars fought in this fort and the memorial of the warriours are in the places where they gave their life for their king. After which we left for Umed Bhavan palace. Where the present king lives . A part of it has been opened for public viewing and rest is a hotel. with a display of silver wares and items. The same day we left back to jaipur from jodhpur. We reached jaipur and direcly went to Choki Dani . This place is in the Tonk Road .

The entry Fee along with dinner is Rs.150 and this place displays the cultural blend of rajasthan. It has the traditional huts. Magicians , Dancers, Muscians, Camel and cart rides. This place is a buzz of activities in the evening. The dinner is served in the tradional way by waiters are dressed up in rajasthani dress . The food served is also fully traditional served in leaf plates with rotis (Bajra)...many types of rotis I dont remember their names. The person who serves tells the name of the item served to each and every one before he keeps it in the plate After this dinner we went to TEEJ (remember our RTDC hotel) and took a nap.

Day VI Jantar Mantar
The next day morning we got up and left for jantar mantar where we took a guide who explained every thing there. It was amazing to note the astronomical capability of Maharaja Jaisingh . We saw the largest watch (Solar). The time machines were built to calculate the local time of jaipur . Many more things like the plates to find the stars. The dials to determine the sun sign and moon sign etc were really good. From Jaipur we left to Agra via Fatehpur sikri.

We visited the Buland darwaza and the memorial of salim in Fatehpur sikri. Since the next day was Friday and The Taj Mahal will remain closed so we rushed to Agra and directly visited the Taj Mahal. It really is a marvelous thing one should never miss in his life. If I start writing about Taj I dont thing this page will be enough. I sure would write it seperately. After visiting Taj We took our Room in the Kant Hotel nerby the charges seemed to be in a little higher end but we had no other go. Had to sleep.

The next day we had to return to haridwar via delhi.

The tour was a very nice experiance . Through out the tour none of the both felt tired, we sure were full of energy . Every day there were new places to see